Hey guys. What do you consider to be the best placment for a weapon light? I’ve been playing with the placement of the weapon light on my carbine the last few days. I wanted to pick your brains about the best location on the handguards to mount the light to be most effective. It’s lived at the 3 o’clock position on my forend for some time. But in doing some movement around barricades it seemed like it could be blocked if I had to work around a right hand barricade. I have moved it to the 6 o’clock position to see how I like that, but I’m not sure… It seems like 3 o’clock is a pretty popular position though. I’d like to hear from some more experienced users who have done a good bit of low-light training on where and why you mount your light. Your input is appreciated.
-RD62
P.S. mine is a pressure switch activated light, not a push tail-cap, so I dont need to be able to hit it with my thumb.
It seems that it’s such a personal thing that I don’t think there’s any one “best” position other than what works for you. Every time I think I’ve found the best position for everything, I tweak something on my setup and consequently everything else changes.
My light started out at 3, got dropped in between 3 and 6 with a Viking Tactics mount, switched to between 6 and 9 (again with a VT mount) and now sits between the 9 and 12 on a Larue offset mount. On my other gun, the light sits right at the 9. The position changes were dictated by things like moving my sling mounts around or shooting with a thumb wrapped around a VFG or going high thumb with a VFG or dropping the VFG completely.
The body of the light and type of mount make a difference, as they may (will) dictate how much room for adjustment you may have. Some people are forced into having the light at a certain position because it’s the only way they can turn it on given it’s length or width and poisition on the rail.
Like I said, there really isn’t a best. It’s about what works for you, and setting up your gear to match how you shoot. I kinda think that lights and mounts are like carry holsters for handguns…you have to try a lot it seems, to find one that fits.
I have to say though…one of the neatest tweaks I’ve seen with a pressure pad is to mount the light forward of the FSB on an MRE type rail. It’s out of the way, in line with everything, and leaves a lot of real estate open. If I didn’t hate pressure pads, it’s something I would try.
Thanks Subzero. I know what you mean about personal preference. So much is that way. Like you said even the VFG and presure pad are up to personal preference. I too have seen the light out front of the FSB, and also like how it’s in-line with the bore and minimizes shadow, but my rail system won’t allow this. Maybe thats a good excuse to start playing with rails too! Anyway, I guess what I meant was if people could weigh in with where they have theirs mounted and if there is any reason why. It might help some of us who are tinkering with their setup, by giving us some ideas about what limitations we might run into with certain setups. Kind of a collective experience pool to tap into for those of us who may not have all the opportunities and resources to test our gear that some others have.
Also thought I’d add that I’m running a Surefire G2 converted to 9V with P91 lamp, shock isolated bezel and tape switch all from BrightFlashlights. It’s in a crappy FAS2 Fisrt Samco mount. The mounts been OK, and I’ve had it for a few years, but am looking to upgrade to something of better quality, with better retention, and stronger construction, but haven’t decided on a mount yet. In closer quarters I convert back to 6V with P60 so as to not have so much reflection and washout from light colored interior walls, etc.
I am right handed, and run a vertical grip with a high thumb. I run my M3X at 3:00 on the rail. It keeps it out away from my PC, and seems to minimize light ADs. When I ran it at 9:00 it would occasionally bump on by itself.
Paul Howe commented that the light and switch should be placed as to not interfere with your regular shooting grip, and shouldn’t require a change of grip to activate it.
What I did, was take a grip on my weapon, VFG as far forward as possible, and high thumb on the left of the gun. Then i put the light where it would fit, this is why I like tape swiches.
LE6920 w/ KAC rail, has a Surefire 9volt classic w/ an Xm 07 switch mounted in a Viking Tactics mount. The mount is on teh 12 oclock rail, so the light sits at the 2 O’clock position. This will also allow me to shoot w/o the VFG.
Colt Sporter w/ M4 handguards has a Surefire classic mounted in a GG&G slic mount, it puts the light in about the same position. This may get switched to an old school Surefire, that puts the lamp at 12 o’clock and dog legs the body around the front sight assembly.
I’ll also mention during some recent training, a SWAT operator commented that having the light in this position, also gets the light on the target just a little faster, and allows you to keep teh muzzle depressed just a little more, when IDing a target.
My work gun, I have to work around what I get issued and what they’ll let me change, has a 9 volt Surefire 961 at the 3’oclock, its the only place it’ll fit, I swithced the clikie tailcap for an XM08, and put the tape under my thumb at 9’oclock. Not entirely happy with that, but it works.
I’ll just reiterate, what Paul said, adjsut the light to you, not teh other way around.
Which position is it you are refering to here? The 2 O’clock? I have to admit I like the way it sounds with the offset mount on the top rail bringing the light to about 2 O’clock.
Keep the info coming guys, I think this is some good stuff! I appreciate everyone’s comments!
How do you like your Viking Tactical mount? I’v been experimenting a little more, and may like to try this setup. Any other mounts able to drop the light like this off the top rail. I’d like to try and keep the light close to the forend.
RD,
I haven’t had any problems, can’t tell you how many rounds, but its been thru a few classes. It is plastic though.
I sold the LaRue offset mount and kept the VT, because the VT, keeps the light closer to the rail.
I don’t think there is any doubt that 6 o-clock is the absolute best place for the light. Every place else can give off a strange shadow. The problem is that’s not the most comfortable place for mine. Especially considering how I’ve been trained to grip the hand guards so far out with my support hand. The 9 o’clock position works well but the light can get hung up on gear & clothing. This is the reason mine gets mounted at 3 o’clock; it’s a compromise that works well for me.
Guess this qualifies as a 10-o-clock position. Surefire G2 light is tailcap activated with the weak-hand thumb. The MI front-sight mount makes for a lightweight, inexpensive, and effective config. Since these pics were taken I upgraded with the G3 to nearly double the brightness
Don’t care for tape switches, not the tape but because of the loose wire. Something integrated like the Surefire handguard would be nice, but way too pricey for me.
Maybe thats a good excuse to start playing with rails too! 
Anyway, I guess what I meant was if people could weigh in with where they have theirs mounted and if there is any reason why. It might help some of us who are tinkering with their setup, by giving us some ideas about what limitations we might run into with certain setups. Kind of a collective experience pool to tap into for those of us who may not have all the opportunities and resources to test our gear that some others have.
