What is the easiest/best way to reduce creep in a standard G.I. trigger set up?
I know I read somewhere about drilling the grip screw completely through the lower. Anybody know about this mod?
There are a number of ways to do that, some more invasive than others. The safest way IMHO is to simply polish it. Any mag/metal polish will do.
What about the “hardness” of the metal? Do I need to be concerned with removing it if I just use Flitz or something along those lines?
Trigger group is an RRA standard rounded.
Ive never used Flitz but from what I can see on their site, it seems like a good choice. Mild, non-abrasive and with a bit of corrosion protection.
As for the case hardened surface, I honestly cannot say for sure if a regular polish like Flitz can actually cut through this layer, the depth of which, I also do not know.
I used JB’s bore cleaning and polishing paste to clean and polish the engagement surfaces and a little action lube plus, seems to smooth up the pull.
I was under the impression that the surfaces were hardened.
My trigger was really bad so I disassembled, cleaned, and lubed it.
While it is not a modification, it did make the trigger feel A LOT better.
Sorry about that, I edited my post. Again, I am not qualified to say for sure whether or not metal polish is abrasive enough to cut through the case hardened layer.
Did a quick web search and info on carburization indicates that the typical case hardened layer is between 1 - 1.5mm thick.
There are some people making modified long grip screws that pre-load the trigger, taking away the creep. An example I just googled is here. There’s a picture of the screw so you can get a good idea of how it works.
Not exactly the safest thing in the world, but I think it’s OK for a range gun.
Also, as an earlier poster said, giving the trigger group an overnight CLP bath really helps.
Different LPK’s feel different, and the three built lowers I have have three different LPK’s. One is a Del-Ton, another a Stag, and the third is a G&R. Grant picks his parts from different suppliers and what not, and after polishing the Del-Ton and purchasing one from G&R, the G&R feels better still. I havent compared it to any other trigger jobs such as Bill Springfield, but I would suggest you replace the interfacing parts and go from there.
if you’ve “polished” so deep that you’re through the hardcase, your trigger isn’t going to function correctly anyway. which segways into my caution- be very careful only to polish and not actually remove metal. you can very quickly end up with a very unsafe weapon.
i just send my triggers to bill springfield,
wow, best triggers i’ve ever used,
i ‘‘had’’ a timney single stage trigger, traded it off, went back with bill’s triggers, 3 pound pull’s zero creep, perfect resets, in a word ‘‘awsome’’
for something like 35 bucks, and 5 day turnaround, cain’t beat bill’s triggers.
peabody
I do not have any personal experience with Bill Springfield. I have read a few post of his triggers doubling.
they have a good rep overall… personally, im not big on what he does to triggers for a duty/defense gun- based on what i know about about the AR FCG, those are modifications that decrease reliability.
Myself, I got rid of the creep in my ARs by installing JP trigger groups in them. Not a tenable solution for some, but in over twenty thousand rounds through five lowers over four years, I’ve had exactly one trigger-related malfunction.
YMMV.
-C
define trigger-related
The problem with Flitz and other paste polishing compounds is that you do not have a way to insure the surface on the trigger is being polished “square.” A sear fixture and a hard Arkansas stone will keep the surface square and polish it. You only need a couple of passes on the trigger and hammer. You do not want to cut through the case hardening on a duty gun. On a match gun you can always use Kasenit to re-harden the surface.
bkb0000 -
Trigger related - as in, a malfunction caused by a failure in one of the fire control group parts. Specifically, I had a fire-on-release in one of my oldest lowers about 18 months ago. At JP’s suggestion, I cleaned the fire control group, readjusted the takeup and overtravel screws, and replaced the trigger return, hammer, and disconnector springs. The problem never reoccurred.
For the past year, I’ve been using that lower on my AR-22 upper and have had no further problems.
-C
I may just get a Geissell SSA.
I found info on the grip screw mod. Pretty simple, straight forward and reversible if I don’t like it.