Been running a stock LE6920 and need an optic for 3-gun. So, what’s the preferred sight for various ranges? My Club uses distances ranging from 30-meters all the way out to 200-meters. So far the iron sights have done well, but the added time taken to gain a decent sight picture is slowing me down. So, what are you other folks using?
I’m also looking to add a Magpul BAD along with the optic and will call it good. The Colt’s trigger is surprisingly pretty good and I’m not a big foregrip advocate. Thanks for reading.
I’ve been searching for the perfect 3-gun optic for FIVE FREAKIN’ YEARS. I’m afraid it does not yet exist.
Right now, I use a Trijicon ACOG TA-11 on a LaRue mount. It’s excellent on open targets up close, and excellent on targets out past 100 yards. It’s a little iffy on reduced/partial targets in the 30-70yd. range.
I’ve used the Burris XTR-14 1-4x and the Meopta KDot 1-4x, and liked them a lot. I really want to try out the new Vortex 1-4. The Premier Reticle 1.1-8x looks like a neat optic, but I’m unwilling to spend $2900 on what amounts to a toy.
My current scope is a Burris XTR 1-4x which is damn nice. I’m also T&Eing a Trijicon TR24 1-4x with the green triangle which is proving to be damn nice for 3gun type stuff.
How are you transitioning from close range out to 200? I hate adjusting POA to adjust the POI. I’ve looked at the TR24 and it would be ideal for the more distant shots. Is the sight picture quick?
This season I will find out how well the 3x TA33 works in our club’s 3 gun matches where the ranges will be from 5 yds to 75. I think the TA11 with the red crosshair would be nearly ideal, largely due to the attributes of the TA11 model in general.
For 3 gun there isn’t much difference between 50 yds and 300 yds as far as drop ect. After that then you need to start worrying. Yes the TR24 is very fast, it’s hard to tell the difference in speed vs the XTR.
So far I love it brother (the TR24). The things I dislike about it are the distortion at 1x (sort of a fishbowl effect on the edges of the field of view). I bought a Chris Drissel (from 3gunstuff.com) cat tail. I do wish it had more power on the high end maybe to 6-8x would be BADASS! With more trigger time on it I’m finding the green triangle is a little faster than the Burris XTR. Prior to shooting it I would never have though it was faster.
Matt Burkett has been very successful with a TA-11D. He also run a Jpoint or Doctor at 1:00 for the close targets.
Taran Butler has been very successful with a TR-21.
Matt shoots in Open (more than 1 optic = OK). Taran shoots in Tactical (only 1 optic allowed).
I ran a TA-11D for a time and liked some features of it, and shot it occluded (progressive machine.net spring loaded front lens cover) for the close stuff. I was shooting in Tactical.
Whatever way you go, use Larue mounts, ensure you have a good zero, and know your holdovers.
The way I see it, there is no perfect optic yet, but if money is no object, then no question the Swaro Z6i is the best optic for the gun at the moment. The ret and set up (plus amazing glass) are as good as it gets currently.
That said the price is scary but you only need one scope. Good guy price is around 1,700.00
I spoke to S&B at SHOT, the new S*B 1-8 will be 2,100 and the good guy price is going to be in the 1800-1900 dollar range.
For the most comprehensive break down of optics for 3 gun, check this spreadsheet I have posted at the top of the forum.
I have been using the 1.1-4x24 Short Dot-LE for a few years now, dont run a small red dot sight yet, but might do so in the future.
Excellent optics, the second focal plane dot can be utilized to longer ranges than on the older Short Dot, the locking turrets are very easy to use. Overall I rate the scope quite high.
Many of the top guys here have gone over to the 1-6 Swarovski, but I do not have a lot of trigger time on that.
Right now I am looking to see S&B introduce the 1-8 Short Dot, will most likely take a look at the newest models at the IWA expo this month.
so, looking hard at the Trijicon Accupoint now, but how is that rectical doing for you out past 300 ?
Also, I cant seem to find a shop where I can finger one up, so how is the brighness of the point compare to say an Aimpoint (on which number setting) ?
Im cross dominate but the Aimpoint is bright enough and (?) I think the true 1x is such that I can shoot both eyes open without a problem. Id hate to wind up mid-stage looking at the side of my scope ! I dont have much experiance with magnified optics in any setting.
Obviously depends where you are zeroed, but assuming a 200m zero, out to 300ish can be accomplished by holding bottom of the triangle or so. Past that, the post is in the way, so for me, best thing to do is dial the turret out to a predetermined secondary, further zero. The reticle shape itself I like - your aiming point at range is the tip of the triangle which is well defined.
How bright - in daylight, due to the fiber optic, it is directly related to how bright the sun is…it is always plenty bright. In total darkness, the triangle glows dimmer, but still very recognizable; I think its ideal. The only times it doesn’t glow is when you are in a dark area looking out into the bright, but in such circumstances the triangle is very well defined in black and poses no problems at all.
When dialed down to 1x (I assume you are talking the TR24 here), this scope is not far off an aimpoint speedwise, IMO. Pretty forgiving eye relief at 1x and the glass is great and makes both eyes open easy.
youll have to excuse my lack of experiance with magnified optics.
so… to make sure I hear ya right, I use a 50/200 zero now, I use that same zero and I dont see much change I cant holover for out to 300 just like now with my Aimpoint… but… I can predetermine my elevation adjustment to subsequent ranges and manually adjust the scope for that shot. ie: 400 yards is 4 clicks up, 500 is 10, ect ? Am I right?
On the TR24 the triangle is 4.2 MOA from top to bottom (when zoomed to 4x). With a 200m(220yds) zero, the bottom center of the triangle is about right for 300m(330yards)depending on ammo, barrel, etc etc etc). Much beyond that, you are getting down into the post which makes it awkward.
The turrets on the TR24 are such that you can set them to a marked ‘0’. So, you go to the range, get a good 200m zero on it, and then align your turret to the ‘0’ at that setting. Then, move your target out to 300m (or whatever distance you want; 300 as an example), and zero for that as well, but instead of making the 300m the 0 setting on your scope, you just note where the dial is (some people even mark it with a bit of whitepen or something). So effectively, you have two zeros on your scope at a quick flick of the turret - a 200m zero and a 300m zero.
So then if you go to a match with longer shots, you can adopt that secondary zero for stages that require it. This is the method I use - the only thing with it if you are doing it properly is its a good idea to know two sets of holdovers through the full range for intermediate targets - both for your 200m zero, and your 300m zero - as you may well find a long range stage that has shorter range targets on it too, and I prefer to dial the scope at the start of the stage rather than as you go.
