Best SBR barrel length for 77gr out to 300M.

I don’t think so. I’m in the process of taking a carbine with a 16" to a 14.5". It boils down to it’s your money. I use this one for work and want the little extra length. I will never buy another 16" barrel with a carbine length gas system.

Dan

With standard military loads in the form of M193 and M855, yes. Barrel lengths over 18" typically provide no meaningful gains on velocity. This is true with Mk.262, though to a lesser degree.

Some commercial loads or hand loads may behave quite differently.

IMHO, if you want a short CQB rifle that you can (easily) hit with at 300, go 10.5"-12.5". If you want a rifle to be handy and still maximize the terminal effect of the 5.56mm at distance, go with a 16" mid-length and save yourself the tax stamp, wait and red tape down the road.

To the original question, the obvious answer is as close to 16" as possible, but ignores the length tradeoff.

If 300m is the expected maximum range, then something in the 12.5" to 11.5" range becomes the most practical option if maneuverability is key. If it’s Almost always suppressed, shorter is always better, but this range (and the stainless 10.5") are the choices. As usual, Grant nailed it.

Any quality barrel free floated will work, and should keep 2" groups at 300yd, with Mk262 or something like TAP75gr. A Noveske 12.5" should be a great tack driver; a Sabre 11.5" is more affordable, but should still be more than up to the task, and the BCM CHF options across the range should all work great.

Consider a $200 premium and some fuss into the overall price of the weapon system. If you’re spending over a couple grand (to include magazines, furniture, optics) then the tax stamp is a smaller concern. If you’re well over that, then it seems trivial not to SBR it in the minds of many. If taxes and stamps are a small percentage of the cost (when lumped in with free-float system, aftermarket stock, triggers, grips, optics/mounts, etc.) then consider it a small investment - a one-time entry into the NFA club, and likely the first of many.

If it’s your first rifle, and budget is key - then consider how much more practice ammunition that $200 will buy you - if that makes a 16" middy more attractive, or means not trading off important features, then stick with that. A quality 16" rifle will always be an improvement over a half-arse SBR.

Effective at what? There isn’t any barrel that’s going to produce enough velocity to cause fragmentation at 300M. If you’re talking about accuracy, barrel length isn’t really a determinative factor. The material, maker, chamber, etc. will all make a greater difference.

You’ll have no trouble hitting any reasonably sized target at 300M with a 10.5" guns, even with 55 gr M193.

Get the 14.5" and perm attach a FH to bring you to 16" and save the $200 and some paper work.

I ordered a BCM 14.5" middy a few days ago, can’t wait to get my hands on it.

I just got an email from my Class III dealer that my LMT SBR paperwork came in today! I’m like a little kid the night before his birthday. I could not make it up to get it today because of my work schedule. I will get it around 1030 tomorrow!

And that barrel with MK262 produces higher velocity than a 14.5 M4.

Yes, thanks to the stainless barrel, which to me makes the the 12.5" Crusader the logical no-compromise all-around solution.

Get the best of both worlds; buy an AUG.

My thoughts exactly!

That is why I complimented my 16" mid-length with a 10.5" SBR.

Cameron

Apparently from what I have gathered from those “in the know” it is not just the barrel rifling but Noveske’s chamber that make the Crusader barrel the “PMF” or “pure fucking magic” barrel. I cannot fore see of any situation as a civie or if and when I go back LEO that a Crusader barreled upper would not full fill any roll in any situation I might find myself under.

When I wear out my LWRCi barrel, if I can’t buy another one. I will be running a 12.5’’ Crusader.

That said I’m looking to add a Noveske 11.5’’ to my KAC.