Need to re-finish some Sig 226 and 225 mags and a few Colt (and a few non-colt) 20 round M-16 mags from my Army days. I don’t want to spend much, just can’t afford it right now, so the cheapest options I have found (besides parkarizing) are Moly Resin (see below) or Electroless Nickel. Both same price. Wondering which will do better on the magazines in terms of lasting with use? I think the nickle, but if it’s electoless, I’m not sure how it’s bonded to the metal. Any experts out there? Here is the info on the moly resin:
Moly Resin™ is a product trademark of John Norrell Inc. These finishes are specifically formulated from a phenolic resin base and molybdenum disulfide (a superior lubricant) with an exclusive blend of additives only available through Norrell Manufacturing. Our additives create a phenolic coating that is hard,durable, and extremely chemical and heat resistant.Our special low temperature catalyst will cause the Resin to harden and bond to the surface to form a barrier to acids, oils, paint removers, powder solvents, bore cleaners and other strong industrial solvents. The low curing temperature prevents possible heat damage to parts during the blah blah blah.
Any input is appreciated. If you think I should save my money and get them parkarized I’m willing to hear why. It’s cheaper by about $4 a mag.
Thanks!
Perma-slik-G is the good stuff.
1 can will do 20 or so mags w/2 coats.
Same stuff the military calls ‘solid film lubricant’
How do you get an even finish on the inside of the magazines since you are spraying from the can? Not that it’s 100% necessary to refinish the inside of the mag…
OK, forget it, a can is $18 and shipping is
FedEx Priority $135.69
FedEx First Overnight $186.92
It’s considered hazmat when shiped so this shipping price includes hazmat charges…
I run into the same issue when purchasing Duracoat to be shipped up here to Alaska. Anybody else wanna do a group buy with you? Will they ship through anyone else?
You’re not going to get hit with the hazmat fees unless you do air shipment.
Call and ask them, I’m not BS’ing. 800 number right at the top of the page.
Nice folks to talk to I might add.
Cost will be however much it is to move a 1.1# item via ground route in a small box through FedEx.
ie, no overnight or express that would require an airplane ride.
For reference, I got 2 cans for under $50 from there to way upstate NY. Took like 4 days to arrive.
It even says as much at the bottom of the linked page (my italics, thier color)
Notice This product is considered a hazardous material when shipping via air.
Hazardous charges will be automatically applied to the shipping charges.
If you’re getting a single can off a truck out front of your house, or even a pallets worth off the loading dock of a shipping company, no hazmat fee.
No need to shoot the inside of the mags, as if they are rotten, no amount of coating is going to fix them and generally only wear mechanically where the spring rides unless the follower is really dicked up and dragging the sides. Bottle brush with soapy water to clean out powder fouling is all the body would require generally.
If its the lubricity you’re after internally, spray the spring.
Hit the followers on 20rd mags with metal followers. Plastic followers don’t really need it though you can if you wish, but a little overspray while doing the springs is usually enough for the purpose. (unless you’re anal about the indicator color of whatever Magpul anti-tilt generation X follower anyway, in which case, remove them entirely)
Do not buff, rub, polish or put cloth against the bodies until the stuff has cured overnight.
If you touch it early with any sort of rubbing/polishing, like 15 minutes to 3 or so hours, the stuff will take on a sheen/shine. Great for metal followers, not so great for outer body.
Once overnighted in a 70+ degrees F not super humid environment they look, feel and act just like a NIB mag, including the little bit of gray stuff you get on your fingers when handling a new mag right out of the bag or box.
Its residual moly, so don’t lick it unless you’re trying to keep your poop smooth.
I do not suggest oven or heat curing.
It will certainly cure the epoxy more quickly, but it won’t allow all the moly that it can to be absorbed into the epoxy. Basically it forces the glue to cure before the material can saturate.
That in turn makes a difference in the appearance and durability of the coating.
Stinks like hell too.
On that note, wear a mask or work outdoors. The stuff is a rockin’ inhalent and if used indoors, like even a 2 stall garage with the doors open, has excellent potential to put you on the ground. It is a super stout epoxy with a huge amount of wiffiness to it.
You can literally feel the brain damage happening. (which may explain why I get so confused at times: too many mags refinished)
ok, I’ll give them a call Monday. I’ll follow your suggestions and certainly can wait for the mags to air dry not oven cure. Sounds like if I swallow a little of this stuff, I can skip my daily prune juice! :sarcastic:
Oh, quick question on how you prep your mags before applying: Do you just use soap and water and dry? I was thinking I was going to blast the mags (which are clean but oiled) with gun scrubber to degrease them fully and then treat them once dry. Problem is I don’t know if gun scrubber (or equivalent) leaves behind a residue?
I did this a decade ago with Perma Silk, the gray stuff would come off and onto my hands / gloves, I followed instructions, soapy water and everything :bad:
I never used it again, that was during the ban era when preban mags were hard to come by.
You might consider that if the mags have enough surface wear warranting refinishing, it’s possible they have enough other wear to warrant replacement.
I use acetone to clean then a follow up with alcohol.
Use surgical gloves when handling as any skin oil really will show up.
They’ll put gray on your hands just like a brand new mag will, and in the same note, will eventually stop doing it too.
A certain amount is expected to come off initally. Its moly powder steeped in epoxy that’s sprayed on and not all of it is going to get glued down.
It can vary on how much or long it does it due to cure time/method, but it is going to happen.
Nothing stopping a good wipedown with lint free cloth with or without alcohol to clean it after a full cure, nor would a wipedown followed by a little rub with some oil to help alleviate it.
Why would you want to spend serious money to make your mags pretty?
If the mags are steel and they were my mags, I would get some 44/40 cold blue from Brownells:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1112/Product/FORMULA-44-40-reg-INSTANT-GUN-BLUE
Degrease and apply the 44/40.
After applying the blue just coat the mags inside and out with Breakfree CLP or Eezox and wipe dry.
I have used this product for years. It produces a black finish like black oxide and it works better than any of the other cold blues I have used.
Moly resin will work well if you have a way to apply it (air brush). E Nickle is generally a very good finish and adheres very well if done properly but the 20 rd AR mags are aluminum with a steel strip liner in the front. I’m not sure the E Ni can be applied to the mixed metal mag.
Ceracoat would be a better option if you want to do it yourself:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=ceracoat/t=P/ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=ceracoat
Added: Parkerizing is IMHO a very good choice for the steel mags but it can’t be used on aluminum.
You really only need to finish the outside of the mags and except for looks the aluminum mags really don’t need a finish.
Magazines are consumables…Finish with Krylon Ultra Flat.
Pre ban magazines are preservables to a lot of people in certain states.
Yea, these are dovetail Sig mags which I really like and to me are preservable. The M16 mags are from my Army days and have sentimental value (not like they let me keep the M16 so had to settle for a mag or two…). So no krylon as that would actually flake off and get into the mechanism of the pistols (not using the M16 mags) and it’s not resistant to stuff like gun scrubber and some Hoppes products. All respect to krylon - have used it on a gun or two in my day.
I am going to try the suggestion from GTifosi - Perma-slik-G. I’m always up for something new and I’ve never tried this stuff before.