I got a used 22 -21A fired 50 rounds of Stingers no problems, fired 10 Velocitors FTE each time, I called Beretta and they said the gun should shoot regular know 22 ammo from what I have read I would say 75% of the reports recommend stingers, but if I could shoot something else I prefer to save my stingers for more meaningful purposes, what do you guys think.
Also on my new gun would it help if I just cyled the action with hammer cocked to help break in the action if so how long should it take?.
ive owned a couple of those little Berettas and both of them really needed several hundred stingers put through them before they became anywhere near reliable with standard velocity .22s. it never really mattered to me, if i ever did drop one in my pocket it had stingers in it anyway
I just spoke to beretta they said they didn’t reccomend the real powerful stuff like Stingers, they said stingers would wear the gun out to quick, they said they recommend stuff like CCI Velocitor’s, I shot 10 velocitors, FTE each time.
I also just verified when my guns were made the used gun 1995, I figure it should be broken in by now but it wouldn’t run on the Velocitors, New gun 2009 unfired, will shoot soon.
no gun out there is going to be more ammo sensitive than a 22-I have seen guns that will only run with one or two types of ammo and refuse to run with anything else- since 22’s are still fairly cheap thank god, get a box or two of assorted 22’s shoot them and see what functions the gun best and stick with it.
Velocitors are at their best out of a rifle. They are usually slower (heavier bullet) out of a pistol than stingers. The small 22lr pistol I have, a Walther tph definitely prefers stingers.
The Velocitors are made especially for max performance in rifle length barrels.
The one I owned worked great with Stingers and Mini Mags, also Winchester 40gr stuff.
If you gun keeps having stoppages, send it to me and I’ll shoot it until it works again, may take a few years but I’m a persistent kind of guy.
BTW, that Aguila ammo from my Beretta would do this weird expand from the rear thing, the ammo fed and fired just fine but left holes in a target that looked like a .38 wadcutter.
My wife has a 21a and in my experience it really needs a clean chamber to run reliably. With a clean chamber her’s runs great with just about any ammo we put through it. Again, I think the key here is the clean chamber. I have found that after 40-50 rounds it starts to give FTE problems. A couple of runs with a bore snake and its good for another box.
Currently we’re running either Winchester Super X 22 HP or CCI Mini Mags. Both have proven extremely reliable.
My 21-A works 100% with cheap Wallmart 40 grain Federal lead and Aguilla Interceptors only. I fired 350 rounds of Interceptors at one sitting with no malfunctions.
This is definitely a zombie thread, but why start a new one?
I picked up a rather well used Model 21A today on the way to the range. I am kind of a sucker for little 22s and was considering an LCP or Taurus PT22 for a while now. I think I am glad I waited. The salesman (to his credit, after I made up my mind) mentioned he had one as well and recommended I try a variety of different 22 rounds to find the most reliable. I grabbed six 50 round boxes ranging from SV to Stingers and continued to the range. The pistol was mostly reliable with SV but 100% with the 2 types of HV that I tried. I had a Walther P22 once, it was far more problematic than the Beretta.
The good - it’s pretty tiny, fun to shoot, and reliable.
The bad - sights are also tiny and the trigger is not great. I could not get many rounds on the target paper at 25 yards, my son could reliably keep 4-5 rounds per mag on the paper and occasionally get a round or two in the scoring rings.
I obviously need to re-blacken the sights (I did say it’s well used) and practice a bit with it at closer range, but I think I am glad I picked it up and the price was OK.
I’ve had one for 30 years and do enjoy shooting it. Mine seems to like CCI Minimags best and Stingers next. Cheap ammo is OK but I tend to get occasional stovepipes with it. I can easily ring a 6” plate at 10 yards which, with the diminutive sights, seems to be what it was made for anyway. Just clean it regularly (especially if shooting cheap ammo) and lube it and you will be GTG.
The .22lr will never be as reliable as a central-fire, but it can run okay once you find the ammo it likes.
Change the recoil and hammer springs every few thousand rounds for best life. Also change the firing pin spring (it is a drop safety) and firing pin retaining pin at the same time as the other springs.
If you don’t, eventually, the retaining pin will break and the firing pin will try to pierce your eyeball. 1st-hand experience. (Eyepro saved my eye)
They don’t make it anymore, but the .25 acp version is more reliable and holds 8+1. (One more) .25 ammo costs more but is reloadable, too. I chose to spend more on ammo for the more reliable gun. (And extra shot)
While 25 yd hits are possible it’s really a 15 yd gun.
Agree w RON3 about the need to replace springs, especially the hammer spring to maintain reliability. Found out during a BUG match, thankfully not during a self defense situation.
I like it as a deep concealment gun, basically a pocket gun. Trigger pull can be improved considerably w careful polishing of working surfaces, back of front sight needs bright paint.
Not my 1st or 2nd choice for concealed carry (9mm and 380ACP), but better than nothing.
Mine will often produce bullet holes in paper showing bullets tumbling, a result of slow rotation due to low velocity/low twist rate in rifling, but don’t mind as it results in more surface
area hitting target.
I agree with you wholeheartedly regarding the 25 ACP vs 22 lr. I did not buy the 21A with the idea of relying on it for protection - I have a 380 LCP for a pocket gun.
I just wanted to give some props to the Beretta USA store. They were the least expensive place to buy magazines and grips, so I ordered both for my new-to-me Bobcat this weekend. Order shipped Monday and expected delivery is today. They also have a military discount.
My pistol’s finish is pretty well worn and “beat up” (it was cheap for a reason). It honestly looks like someone carried it in pockets with keys, etc daily, as well as shooting it quite a bit and dropping it more than once (hence the grips).
I used Alumablack on the frame and it did a surprisingly decent job blackening the numerous dings. Much better results than I have seen on AR lowers.
I also cold blued the slide and barrel with the expected results - a bit mottled and a more charcoal than black.
I don’t plan to treat it gently or show it off much, so I am fine with the look. Cold blue is really better for touch ups and sights, of course.
I put wood Tomcat grips on my 21A which are noticeably fatter than the original plastic ones (also less cracked) and picked up 3 new magazines from Beretta when I ordered the grips.
I took the pistol to the range again yesterday with a good assortment of ammunition and a 22 cal. bore brush. It ran 98% through 300 rounds of CCI mini mags and Aquila copper plated HV ammo, using the new and original mags. 28 or so rounds of CCI Stinger was not an issue. Federal Champion seconds were a bust, 100% fail to cycle. It had a couple rounds which did not fire on DA, but popped off when I pulled the trigger again. I would brush out the barrel whenever I felt resistance pushing a round into the barrel, so the chamber never had a chance to get crudded up. FWIW, a boresnake did not do as well at cleaning the chamber.
The only issue I had was accuracy, or the lack of it. Maybe it’s the pistol, maybe it’s me, but I could not keep a magazine (7 rds) in a 6 inch group at 10 yards. It’s pretty discouraging because I have no need or desire to use it for self defense; if I cannot hit a soda can reliably at 10 or so yards, I won’t really get much use out of it.
It is surprisingly natural to insert a magazine and then pop the barrel open to drop a round in. I found myself thumbing back the hammer and holding it while applying the safety with the other hand, which sounds more complicated than it is. It is also reasonable to just fire the first round DA, except… The DA hammer travel is approximately 2/3 the distance of SA and I had 2 failures to fire on DA, zero with SA. Pulling the trigger again worked on both “no fires”.
I was very happy to find the pistol reliable. Now if I can just get to the point I can hit something:)
Andy
P.S. I also gripped the pistol too high and got my thumb knuckle in the slide path numerous times, moderately uncomfortable but no harm done.
It can be much more accurate if the so called sights are improved. I added white paint to the rear of the sliver that is the front sight so its more noticeable. Also added a tiny dot w tip of toothpick on each side of notch in rear of slide, that serves as the rear sight. Lure paint from a fishing supply store worked for me.
No more light strikes after I replaced the springs. Polishing friction points in hammer and trigger bar improved trigger pull in SA and DA.