I’ve searched the 'net some, but I can’t get past the signal to noise ratio to find what I need.
I want to get started loading 9mm, so I thought I’d go ahead and get a single stage press. I’m likely going to pick up a Rockchucker at a local gunstore (trading an old rifle I don’t shoot), so I need to know what the bare minimum of other gear I need to get started.
I have a set of Lee 9mm dies already, as well as powder, primers, bullets, and cases. Beyond that, what other gear of decent quality do you recommend? I know I need a scale and some way to dispense powder, but there’s a lot of options out there and I’m not sure what represents the best value. I’m looking at a bare minimum setup to keep the costs low.
Also, are there some things that can be homemade or reassigned for the purpose of reloading (like using the cartridge holders from factory ammo as a loading tray)?
You will hear a million answers to this but I would pass on the Rockchucker its too slow for pistol. Get a Lee Turret press about 75-85 dollars and one of their auto disc powder measures to start you can load about 150-200 per hour. You can do some decent quantity but can still control every aspect of the loading process. Check out some of the Youtube vids on reloading presses it is a great tool to see how some of them work.
I reloaded on a borrowed turret press years ago, but I’ve about forgotten everything since then. I plan on getting a good progressive (A Dillon or a Hornady) sometime later this year, so I figured I would get the single stage so I would have it for load development and a couple of calibers I want to load (mainly .45 LC) but won’t be doing much of. I agree the Lee turret would be faster right now, I’m kind of looking at what my setup will be once I get the progressive later on. However, if you think the Lee Turret would work for those purposes, I may go ahead and get one.
I have a tumbler and have already processed a bunch of brass. I’m planning on getting a Lee hand press and a universal decapper so I can decap (and maybe prime) while I’m in front of the TV.
Are some scales better than others? Should I consider digital scales or calipers? If I go with a single stage, what is a good value in a powder dispenser?
I’ve been looking at the Dillons for a while, but budgetary setbacks (i.e. buying guns) have kept me from it. I was looking at the single stage because I thought it would complement an eventual Dillon acquisition.
I’m in a catch-22 where I need to buy ammo for matches and practice but need to save for a reloader at the same time, and I also don’t want to invest in something I may end up replacing with a better machine. I figured the single stage would be something I would use for a few other things once I got a Dillon or the like.
But looking at it now, the Lee would certainly get me loading faster than the single stage and would maybe give me more time to get set up on a Dillon.
I would appreciate that. I’m leery of buying used off the interwebs, and most folks around here hand on to their reloaders, so I haven’t been able to find any used ones close by.
If you start with a Lee Classic Turret, when you get the Dillon later you simply remove the auto advance rod from the Lee and can use it just like a single stage except you will already have you dies mounted in the turret and can turn it by hand.
Put the auto advance rod in and it turns the turret with each pull of the handle…useful for pistol loading.
This is what I do when I switch from pistol to rifle ammo. I’ve loaded .223, .270 and 30-06 this way since my procedures for those rounds are different with respect to powder charging and priming.
Hey dude I’m on my GF’s computer right now but when I get home tomorrow I will post some YouTube links I found where a guy shows how to set up a Lee Classic Turret Press (which comes highly recommended from many people).
Bullet puller
Case gauge
Calipers for measuring OAL
I check OAL a lot at first, and then once every 50-100 rds or so when cranking out reloads. I’ve learned I need to drop each round in the case gauge as some of my brass is stretched out at the base and can lead to a stuck case. So I case gauge each round I make and pull the bullets on the ones that don’t pass for reuse.
I’d appreciate that. My first vehicle accident ever (basically a fender bender) has put me further from the Dillon. I’m looking at the Lee Pro 1000 right now.
Get that out of your mind right now. (You will thank me later).
If you need to postpone the Dillon, then do it and save until you can afford it. You wouldn’t go buy an Olympic AR if you couldn’t afford the Colt/BCM/DD/LMT/Noveske/etc would you?
I have never used a Pro 1000. But, as a Dillon dealer, I have spoken to LOTS of people who are replacing their Pro 1000 with a Dillon. Some of them within 1-2 months of getting the Pro 1000. They universally have the same story: it may work, but you spend more time futzing with it than you do loading and it gets out of whack easily and often. Some have just thrown it away in the trash after their Dillon arrives. Others inflict it on someone else via Craigs List or whatever.
Yeah, that was my confusion. I thought I recognized your username, but the posts seem to be recent (3/5 – did not see the 10 at the end). Once I posted, I saw the 10 and realized my mistake, so added the necro-reply tag but left the post since I figured it may help others in a similar predicament…
This plus a set of carbide dies so you don’t have to lube the cases. Just tumble (you also need media and polish) and load.
Stay with factory until you can get a progressive - the Dillon Square Deal B at a minimum, but a single stage is always nice to have on your bench as well.
You need to lube bottleneck cases, even with carbide dies…This is the result of not enough…happened last week. Redding Type A FL Carbide. Not enough lube. Was having problems with a small dent on the shoulder of my cases from excessive lube, think I’m going to try imperial sizing wax…yo
