OK so if my AR shoots 20rds of Winchester 55gr 556 just fine then I try 20rds of Wolf 223 black box and its bang click every time. Essentially it seems it was short stroking with the Wolf. So is it Wolf or the AR?
If the Winchester works fine what other ammo is on par with it and can I use?
Let me see… My car goes from point A to point B with gas brand A in the fuel tank and runs like a top… but it keeps sputtering and stalling with gas brand B in the tank… Is it my car or is brand b just crappy gas???
inquiring minds want to know…
B
I say throw a brand C and a brand D in the mix (like some PMC Gold and Federal XM193) and go from there. Wolf ammo will never be fed to a firearm that I love.
so, what happens when everyone else’s car runs great on gas brand B? is it the gas or the car? 
(this is like the M&P reliability thread where i mentioned that my M&P will work with everything but wolf ammo, but is the only 9mm handgun i own that doesn’t. my glock, sig and BHP devour wolf without hiccups. the answer for me - it’s BOTH. the combination doesn’t work).
Don’t know if you tried more then one box or source of the black box wolf, might try another box or have a friend try the box and see what happens. Try Silver bear, or Privi Partizan.
hope this helps,
–Olivers_AR
Wolf and quality are polar opposites. Wolf is some of the weakest .223 ammo made.
It’s best to stick to brass cased quality ammo in (direct impingement) ARs and it’s best to use 5.56mm NATO spec ammo.
Think of it like your automobile:
If the label on the drivers door says to inflate your tires to 35psi and you’re running them at 20psi and wondering why your vehicle handles funny. It’s not a problem with the vehicle nor the tires, it’s just not designed to run 20psi in the tires hence the reason why the label reads 35psi.
As someone who runs Wolf almost exclusively in all my ARs for thousands of rounds without cleaning, I’m going to say it’s your gun.
At the price of ammo today any gun that wouldn’t run Wolf would be a no-go for me.
I also run my Escalade on 87 octane despite the fact that they “recommend” 93. No problems there either.
What make/model of AR are you running? Ironically it seems to me that the less expensive guns, with the out of spec chambers, won’t run the cheap ammo but the more expensive guns, with the 5.56 chambers, run it just fine.
You had a good arguement going until you put yourself in an escalade.
I did another 20 rds of Wolf same thing bang click. Im gonna try PMC or federal next. See what happens.
Could you answer Rob’s question about make/model of AR?
I’ve had problems with Wolf short-stroking my AR also. My Mini-14 eats it up just fine.
lol, I was going to say the same thing 
A properly functioning AR should eat Wolf just fine. It is underpowered when compared to 5.56 NATO loads but should still function. Shoot about 500 rounds of a NATO load then try some Wolf.
I have shot Wolf, due to the price for years in every thing from Colt Pre Ban HBAR’s to Bushy’s & Rock River M4’s and never had a hiccup. Even the A Team vintage Mini 14 eats it just fine.
The way I see it, as long as I’m punching Paper or downsteel in preatice or 3 gun matches, the less I have to spend, the more I have to “invest” in other goodies so, save the Black Hills for the real thing and shoot whatever is more financially feasable as long as it wiorks and Wolf hasn’t let this 25,000 + round shooter down yet.
Also, used exclusively in my AK’s, also without a hiccup on any of them I have ever tried it in.
Not to mention shooting it in a G21, 22, 34, 36, 17, 19 and the same in XD’s in 45 & 40, not ever so much as a hiccup that could be attrubuted to the ammo.
Forgot to mention the Kel tec’s, cheap guns that shoot well on cheap ammo.
Kel Tec 9 & 40 Sub 2000’s P3AT, P11, no problemo, also this ammo is for practice only, defense is a whole nother issue.
I work on several hundred ARs every year. Every year I remove on average 4-5 steel casings stuck in AR chambers.
This involves large hammers, brass punches, Kroil, old Dewey cleaning rods and costs the customer money (typically a 1/2 hour of labor).
Never have I had to remove a stuck brass casing in an AR that didn’t just come out via ‘mortaring’ the AR.
I call this a ‘clue’.
Like I said steel cases work fine in piston guns (including piston ARs) or AKs, direct impingement and steel cases is just bad ju-ju…
This is the reason why VA Arms doesn’t carry Wolf .223 ammunition. If we did somebody would get a stuck steel case in a direct impingement AR. Want a refund for the ammo and then want us to remove the stuck case for no charge. VA Arms is simply not in the business to not make or worse lose money. Same reason we no longer carry Taurus, SIG Mosquitos, Beretta Tomcats etc.
LOL…beat me to it…
And for each experience there is a polar opposite. Thousand and thousand of round of Wolf, ZERO malfunctions
Fed XM193- Popped primers, squibs and repeated other malfunctions, and no it wasnt PD
I’m just guessing that you’ve never heard of Deductive reasoning?
For each experience.…different experiences don’t cancel out my experience. Sure some brass ammo has problems too, it doesn’t cancel out problems with steel cased ammo…I guess I missed that logic in class…? ! …er…what?
x2
Yeah, I’d like to know what brand of gun is choking on this stuff. Could shed some light on the issue.