B&T Sub Gun Tri Lug Baffle strike city.

We have a buddy who has a B&T sub gun with a tri lug suppressor mount. His gun shoots fine with the can off, but when his can is mounted, he has to shake out bullet jacket chunks and obviously can’t hit shit with it.

The can is a Dead Air Wolfman. Any Ideas?

I’ve always wondered about that with my Wolfman. I have it on an APC9 and use the short config to minimize gas blowback. I don’t notice any accuracy difference compared with bare muzzle. Just for kicks, I tried the long config and my accuracy at 25 yards went to hell (like 8” groups).

That’s interesting. We can’t really tell which baffles are getting hit. Maybe all of them. I’ll relay that observation to this guy.

What ammo? Is his tri lug machined into the barrel or one of the screw on mounts? I’m assuming that the can/mount lockup feels solid or he wouldn’t have sent anything.

I have a GHM 9 with a 8.9" barrel machined in tri lug, and anything thats not FMJ/TMJ is terribly inaccurate (e.g. plated). Foot + groups at 25 yards. Huxwrx Rad 9. I stick to 124gr or heavier Federal FMJ/TMJ/JHP.

Do y’all have access to a 9mm alignment rod?

Definitely check with an alignment rod.

I own an APC 9 Pro SBR, and routinely shoot it with a CMMG (made by GSL) Defcan 9. it’s a long 7-8” suppressor. Zero issues, no POI shift and no blowback to the face.

We don’t have an alignment rod. Didn’t know they made them in 9 millie. I think he was running 124 gr Blazer Brass? or PMC? Not completely sure.

It has to be an alignment issue.

Well, I believe with the full size APC9 Pro the trilug is machined into the barrel as one piece. So, it could be one ore more of a few factors. Ammo destabilizing, trilug not concentric to bore, trilug adpater misaligned in Wolfman, undersized/disintegrating baffles, or just maybe tolerance stacking. Is the Wolfman exhibiting this behavior with other hosts? DA has had a bit of trouble with KG Made, the current builder of the Wolfman/Sandman, but particularly the Sierra-5 for disintegrating baffles.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/drill-blanks/tight-tolerance-multipurpose-oil-hardening-o1-tool-steel-rods/

maybe.

Blazer Brass tends to have very poor plating; jacket separation has been seen by others in just normal handgun usage.

TMJs must be plated bullets.

Lots of great ideas… Thanks. As far as the ammo, I don’t think it was plated. The frags shaken out of the can looked like actual jacket material, but I could be wrong.

Thanks. I’ll pass this on. I’m still saving up my paper route money for the chamber reamer.

Then I spoke incorrectly, FMJ w/ a fully encapsulated base. No electro plating.

I don’t believe it’s possible to have a fully encapsulated base without plating; there’s no real way to draw a jacket over the base in an economical fashion, AFAIK.

I will note that plating can come in differing quality; shitty plating as found in the Blazer Brass bullets or Berry’s Bullets work for economical loads, but there are also much more substantial plating like Speer TMJ or Gold Dot. Technically, the shitty plated bullets are jacketed, they’re just very poor jackets that are nowhere near comparable to the quality and durability of a bullet jacketed via the traditional cup and draw method, while high quality plated bullets like Speer TMJ are much closer to cup and draw in terms of durability.

Since the set up is an NFA deal, I can’t take it home and give it a good look. I’m not close enough of a friend where the guy would come over to the house, and I frankly don’t know shit about tri lug mounts.

The jacket frags that he shakes out of the can do look like real jacketing and not like the Berry’s type of practice bullets. But I didn’t get a great look or any pics.

Got word that Dead Air replaced the end cap and the owner shot the rig successfully. I.E. no 12" groups at 7 yards and a can full of bullet fragments.

Not sure if I buy a simple end cap replacement fixing this issue, but that’s what the said. And the problem seems to be fixed so who cares, I guess?

I have an Obsidian 9 and when I ran it with the SiCo tri-lug mount on a Hansohn Brothers HK-spec tri-lug adapter, it struck 4 baffles in the modular section (near endcap). Gun was grouping fine at 25 yd without the can. With the can, the shots were like 12"-18" high/left (way way off paper).

Got home and saw the baffles were struck.

Checked with an alignment rod but also applied force on the can and sure enough the alignment rod was touching the end cap in each of the extreme cases. I rotated the tri-lug position and it was the same thing in each position.

If I ran the short section, the can would be short enough that the rod wouldn’t touch the end cap.

But the issue was the SiCo Tri-Lug mount had too much wobble since it only used 1 point of contact in the “piston” with an o-ring. I tried the Griffin Armaments tri-lug mount which has 2 points of contact and a very tight fit. There’s still wobble with the long can config and if I pull the rod gently to take up any slack, it kisses the end cap but it is much better than the SiCo.

I haven’t tried the Rugged tri-lug mount yet, but I think going with the shorter can config is the way to go with tri-lug.