What kind of torque wrenches do you Armorers generally use? Cheapos, or quality wrenches???
I realize a top of the line wrench is probably not necessary, and many of you may not even use a torque wrench, but I’m also a tool junkie, and I’d like to have one for several uses, but especially for AR work, IF they are somewhat useful.
Is a torque wrench something you Armorers use often, and find necessary???
Regardless of whether they are needed or not, I would like to know what is the torque rating one should buy??? 100 ft/lbs max wrench??
Second little issue. What do you guys use for removing FSB taper pins? Brass punches, concave punches (tip of punch is curved INWARD thus creating a nice inverted bowl shape, which grasps the domed shape of the taper pin quite well), OR do you guys just use plain ol regular punches???
I would like to post a few more Armorer questions in the future as well, and I thank you guys!
My torque wrench is a Craftsman one. I think it goes up to 100 ft/lbs. It is the kind that you set the torque in the handle.
When putting a barrel on, the main critical torque you need is a minimum of 30 ft/lbs. After I reach 30 ft/lbs, I begin to align the scallop or holes in the barrel nut with the gas tube hole in the upper. One upper I had with a new LaRue went on at a hair over 30 ft/lbs, and the hole in the barrel nut was in alignment. I hate it when I have to lean on a wrench to get that last little bit to make everything line up. The more torque, the greater chance the FSB will cause excessive windage.
The concave center punches are neat, but I can’t find them in my AO. Sully brought some to class, and I actually chipped a brand new one trying to remove the taper pins. He usually keeps spares on hand for such.
I end up using regular punches myself. The barrel needs to be nice and steady, and depending on whose upper, one or two taps will get the pins moving.
I get whatever happens to be in the Brownell’s AR15 tool kit. But Im not paying for my tools…
As far a punches, I use whatever happens to be closest. But thats because If Im removing the FSB its going in the trash, so I dont have to worry about good looking pins.
I would strongly suggest getting yourself a copy of the M16A2 5.56MM Rifle Manual - U.S. Marine Corps Technical Manual. Yes, it’s written like most military manuals (intended for a 3rd grade reading level, but consequently difficult to understand for anyone beyond that) but it’s chock full of just about anything you’d need to know to work on an AR.
In reading through this you can get a better idea of what sort of tools you may need.
I’ve got several manuals, and I’m thinking I’ve got the one you mention as well.
I like to hear what others here are using though, as many times there are other unconventional methods and tools being used that interest me.
One prime example is AR15Barrels method shown above.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but isn’t this a Kurt milling vise (or similar) being used to press the pins out?
What is the weird shaped socket head cap screw like that for? Is it ground off, to accept the taper pin or what???
Thanks for posting…
Mr. Cataldo, we use a lowest bid dial torque wrench that is calibrated once a year. If you spring for a Snap On or Mac, the dealer can have it calibrated for you for a fee. As far as sight base pins I use a large (3/8) drift pin to start the pins moving then drop down to a smaller punch to drive them out.
The angle of the allen head screw is ground to match the profile of the FSB, the right side of the FSB is set against the allen head screw (the hollow end covering the large end of the taper pin). The hex hole in the screw gives the taper pin a place to go as it’s pushed out a little from the left side. Then you can remove the bbl from the fixture and tap the pins out easily with very little effort.
The tool that Randall gave me works very well.
I’ve been wanting to make a similar type tool but bigger so that it would work on a 1 ton Arbor press for AR taper pins and SiGARMS (milled slide models) for 220s, 226s, 229s firing pin retaining pins (which are a muther F’er to get out).
If I’m pulling a pin it’s usually because one side has broken off. Those are pretty hard to remove. In my experience removing a whole pin is a whole lot easier. An Arbor press would be really nice for getting the pin in without any hammering.
That’s correct, I use a Kurt vise to pop out taper pins now.
7500lbs of very controllable clamping force in the palm of your hand.
As GotM4 mentioned, the socket head cap screw is slightly ground so it matches the profile of the side of the FSB.
The allen socket makes room for the large end of the taper pin to move slightly.
I only use the setup pictured above to “pop loose” the pins.
Once they are broken loose, a regular punch moves them out with my 4 oz hammer.
Randall,
Will your new press remove stubborn installed backwards CMT/Stag taper pins? I’ve sold longer than CAR length Troy and Samson rails to customers wanting to loose the FSB on these barrels and I just cut/grind & refinish the FSB so it fits under the rail of these rails after the bitch of a time you and I both had with my old Stag barrel now a 10.3"
I’m going to be building it up with a LaRue billet upper and the 11" LaRue rail and a Noveske KX3 for it one of these days.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes my pin breaks.
I have broken my pusher exactly two times, BOTH on Stag barrels.
The tip of the pusher is a piece of tool steel that I OD grind.
The Kurt vise is very slow and controlled force, but those Stag barrels will make the tool steel crack!
Randall,
I thought the jaws of the Kurt vise (and most other machine vises) were hardened. How did you drill and tap the jaws? I’ve had a hell of a time drilling, and ESPECIALLY tapping hardened steel, even with the highest quality taps…
