I am new to this great site and am just starting to get into AR’s and learning all the in’s and out’s. I have done a few searches on various things and the more I read the more questions and minor confussion my little pea brain has.
So, I was hoping to have a running discussion on AR’s and different parts.
Thanks for any answers and replies you offer ahead of time I really appreciate it, it is one thing I really like about this site (people respect each other, take the time to answer questions etc.).
First question… what is the biggest difference in barrel length? if you were building an AR why buy a 16" verses a 14" etc. does length give a more stable/longer shot? shorter for closer shots maybe?
second question… what are some of the main differences in hand guards? I see hundreds of different types, is it purely looks or is there some degree of protection from heat? Do longer ones offer more stability wheen shooting? (being able to hold farther out)
Ok, that all for the moment, but there will be more.
There are a lot of variables to your questions, perhaps a little more searching might help. One difference with <14" bbl’s is NFA comes into play, is the difference worth the extra $200 stamp if you can own SBR’s in your state? You’ll see lots of differing opinions on bbl lengths and gas system lengths here. I run 16" myself on my POW’s.
As far as HG’s, are you looking to free-float or go with non-FF? That’s one major difference. Heat shielding is something to be aware of (I’d avoid el cheapo chicom knockoffs). I like MOE HG’s for non-FF applications myself.
I am still pretty new to the whole ar platform myself, this is definately one of the best places to get info. I have had some of the members of the forum come along side of me and help me with negotiating my way through the vast amounts of information on the subject.
Longer barrel gives higher muzzle velocity. Shorter than 16 inches is illegal unless an ATF transfer tax is paid and stamp obtained ($200, a significant paperwork hassle, and about a 4 month waiting period). A shorter barrel provides more maneuverability.
I’m not the expert on this, but since your head is swimming here’s a layperson reader’s digest version:
As far as military use goes, another factor on barrel length is the fragmentation velocity of 5.56 ball ammo. Original 55 gr NATO ammo fragments in soft targets at around 2700 fps and up. Barrel length affects muzzle velocity, which affects the range where the bullet falls below fragmentation velocity. You can do some research and run ballistics to learn the differences between all the barrel lengths and their terminal effects.
I might have the velocity wrong, and it’s OBE anyway (55 gr not issued anymore), but at least maybe it gives you a window into another factor.
Smarter people can correct or elaborate if needed.
second, rails are (or should) be needs driven - this means you should only add something, that you have determined through actual use, that you need.
other than sights, a magazine and ammo, the next thing an AR needs is a light and a way to mount it so you don’t shoot people or things you don’t intend to in the dark. you don’t need a rail to do this.
I would honestly advise just getting the gun, half a dozen magazines, as much ammo as you can afford, and going out and shoot the gun. no one will think twice or criticize you for not having rails, fancy optics or doodads, etc., especially if you can operate the guns safely and reasonably well. if you have funds left over, try to get into at least a one day carbine training class. the words “you don’t know what you don’t know” are particularly applicable…
then, only invest in those options that you have found you need. rails are more or less personal choices and there are differences so take the time to ask “why” someone chose the gear they have. ignore answers like “it’s the BEST!” unless they can quantify that answer.
Free floating handguards or rails do not touch the barrel. They attach near the reciever, and don’t touch anything else on the gun (namely the barrel). The theory is that the barrel (and therefore accuracy) are not influenced by accessories or techniques which exert force on the handguard (and then barrel).
Regular (fixed?) handguards attach to the gun at both the reciever and front site base. Any force exerted on the handgards ‘may’ influence accuracy. They are generally less permanent and more easily changed FYI.
It is all about what you are trying to accomplish, and how much you want to spend.
Free float effectively “locks” the handguard to the receiver. Shortest answer is it allows better accuracy because no outside force is putting stress on the barrel during a shot.
When you say “fixed” I think you mean “not free floated”, which would be any other handguard or rail that’s clamped between the receiver and the front sight base. Since the handguard/rail is supported at the FSB by the barrel, it puts stress on the barrel during a shot.
FF are typically heavier duty and take a little more work to install. Some are easy and some really need someone that knows what he’s doing. They also allow more advanced configurations of lights, grips, optics, slings, etc., because they’re commonly used with low profile gas blocks which means you can get more room.
Non free float usually just slip right in and out, and of course are limited to the length available between the receiver and the FSB.
FF are spendy so a person should really need the accuracy, durability, and rail space gains to make it worth it. Your average person that doesn’t compete or fight with their rifles might not really notice the difference.
so if you are not going to have a front sight post you would need the free float anyway correct? which brings up another point, if you plan on some kind of scope wouldn’t the front sight be in the way? Maybe it just looks like it would be.
I am looking to spend no more than $1500.00 to $2000. I have seen nice rifles such as DD and Noveske for $1500.00 and up, but I am not sure if I want to just buy something like that or piece my own together, thus the questions.
Just trying to learn and ask my own specific questions that pertain to my situation. I am learning and having fun doing so. I know sometimes people say “do a search” and I have been/and do but it helps to also ask when I can’t find specifics. So thanks for the time and help to everybody.
Please define what you want to use the gun for. You have a good budget, and should be able to build/buy something that will meet your needs. It is really difficult to give input when you have not defined what the gun is to be used for.
Regarding your question about the scope and FSB, a search of the term ‘co-witness’ should provide some thorough answers.
Don’t hesitate to use the search feature. This is Definitely one of the top resources for learning about ARs. That being the case, you have to assume that these sorts of questions have been asked before. All the information is there for you, just start at the stickies and search when you have questions
For the money, this might be a good carbine to start. Everything needed to get you shooting and the only extra is an RDS (Red Dot Sight) which is a good addition- http://palmettostatearmory.com/2557.php
I understand this doesn’t give any explanations, but it might help you give your questions more focus. I know it can be frustrating for someone when asking questions about something they know little to nothing about.
This is just one option and there are other ARs available made by trusted names such as Colt, BCM, Daniel Defense and Noveske. Go to their websites and look at their rifles. PSA, who offers the above rifle is a new comer and hasn’t yet fully proven themselves here, but what they have looks good so far. I have one of their rifle kits and the upper shoots good (I haven’t finished assembling the lower yet. I hope to have it done this weekend).
It will take time to absorb all the information about ARs, so take your time and be patient. Also, what that information means to you can and will change as you gain experience in shooting and handling them.
Free float tubes eliminate influences the handguards will have on a barrel. They are nice but not needed. They can be added later if you decide you want one.
You won’t know if the front sight post will interfere with the optics until you try it. It depends on the optic being used and personal preference. Most find the post with an RDS isn’t a problem.
A basic AR with a flat top upper, fixed front sight, simple adjustable stock, standard pistol grip and forearm, in spec bolt carrier group and an in spec barrel of 16" cut to the government, M4 or lightweight profile will give you a good, utilitarian, all around carbine without spending money on features that aren’t needed and a good foundation to modify as you learn what you need/don’t need and want/don’t want.
Welcome to the forum and the madness of BRD (Black Rifle Disease)
I agree with Ra2. My advice generally mirrors his. You should listen.
The reason some of us buy rifles configured in a certain way right off the bat is that we’ve used AR’s in just about every form. We’ve also used AR’s in various roles and know what kind of setups work best for what application. Remember, the mission drives the gear. Gear doesn’t drive the mission. For example, I personally know that I like longer rails made by Daniel Defense or Centurion for almost every application. I also know that I prefer 1-4X optics on my 14.5 / 16’’ carbines over everything else. But that’s just me and those preferences were only realized after using all of the alternatives. So here’s what you should do:
Start with something basic! Then, as you use and get used to the AR platform, determine areas which you would like to see improved based on your own personal experience with the rifle. Maybe you’ll feel that the stock pistol grip isn’t working for you. Maybe you’ll find that the standard sling attachment points aren’t working for you. Maybe you’ll find that the way you hold the rifle lends itself to a 12 o’clock X300 type setup rather than a 3 or 9 o’clock mounted light. The point is that you shouldn’t be spending a ton of money right away in order to make your AR look like some asshole’s rifle in an ARFCOM picture thread, because you think that’s the way it’s “supposed” to look.
Get yourself a rifle in basic configuration, a sling, and magazines. For those, I suggest:
By starting out simple like this, you’re leaving yourself completely open to pick and choose upgrades that you want down the road based on your own experience, without wasting money on accessories that you either don’t need or won’t like.
First… security, whether home or BO. second… “hobby” for lack of a better term. To shoot, teach my kids to shoot and ongoing education of AR’s for future purchases or builds.
I am curious what do you use yours for?
Right now I am green as kermit the frog, but I want to learn, we all started somewhere right?
Given that information, the PSA rifle mentioned above should be about perfect. Thanks for clarifying! If you had stated “300 yard coyote gun” you would need something totally different.
A 16" carbine or middy and red dot site is a great starting point based on what you described. It should be way under your budget as well. Lots of money left over for mags and ammo!
I personnaly have a BCM/mutt that is very similar including the Aimpoint PRO.
I am green to AR’s and their builds, I am tring to learn why some people like one part over another, what advantage or application that part may bring to the overall weapon. I did use an M-16 on a very limited basis while in the service for qualifying, so I do have a basic understanding of a few aspects of it. The problem is I didn’t get to the point of understanding what everything was for, what the part did, etc. and I am simply trying to teach myself before I try and put something together or buy it whole and I don’t want to waste time or money which I am sure you understand. anyway this gives me some good reading, thanks again.
