I am currently scrutinizing the interior of Honda CR-Vs for concealment of 16" and less AR types. I’m particularly interested in methods that would utilize the ample dead space within or replacing the center console. Must be rapidly accessible and concealed, sufficient to pass casual scrutiny from burgs and LE.
I’m familiar with removable pack carry methods, LE security racks, and cargo area options.
See the Honda here: http://automobiles.honda.com/cr-v/
I don’t really have much to add other than, there maybe legality issues to take into consideration. Although, if you’re utilizing the center console it may not technically be considered a “hidden compartment”.
My wife drives a CRV, not long ago I had to store a lower receiver in the center console. I had to remove the m4 style stock to get it to fit, without the sling mount it probably would have fit. I think with the shifter and dash being so close you will have trouble concealing a full 16" carbine assembled in that area without MAJOR surgery to the interior.
If you want any specific measurements or pictures without taking a trip to a dealer PM me.
Appreciate the thought, but legal issues are not a factor. Just getting the job done.
Many thanks. I have access to the CRV I’ll be working with so measurements aren’t an issue. You’re thinking along the right lines. That console is right for building up to either hinge open to a hidden compartment or to be hollowed out as one. I have the concept, but am hoping not to reinvent that wheel.
With the console stopping even with the rear of the front seats, there’s also the potential to build it back to the middle of the rear seat. You lose a passenger (or at least make them uncomfortable) but gain access.
Ever disassemble that console?
Thanks, keep them coming!
Have not disassembled the console. Another quick look shows this you might run into problems with the cupholder depth. Obviously the shorter the barrel the easier and less invasive the work will be.
What are the requirements for the condition of the weapon? orientation? mag inserted? optic? etc.
Cutting into the interior and console is a tough pill to swallow for me. I just bought a baseball/softball bat bag and put my rifle in it. A little harder to get to in a pinch but very inconspicuous.
I think he wants out of sight, out of mind option (plus it sounds hella fun job to fabricate&modify and cool as well) Always wanted to figure out something for a dash. Alot of cars have injected molded plastic framing/sticking up around steering wheel hollow them out and make James Bond compartment for pistol. Snatch out passenger side airbag put in custom lifting shelf/access for AR rifle if wanna go full retard:jester:. Post pics:D
look at the big sky overhead racks
See if it will fit in the area made for your spare tire. My wife drives a 2012 crv and that area in that body style may work. It may not be as rapid as you’ll want though.
Once again, you don’t say anything about WHY…
You also missed the parts where he said he is aware of various lock systems and he’s looking for CONCEALMENT. An overhead rack is still open to view, and depending on the model doesn’t even offer locking mechanisms. Not very good for where he works. You should stay with things you have actual experience with.
from the op:
sufficient to pass casual scrutiny from burgs and LE.
The big sky bolt in racks press the weapon far enough into the headliner that it will pass “casual scrutiny”. Consider this. When you look in the car, where’s the first place you look? Seat, console, dash, backseat. True that the “civilian models” do not come with locking mechanisms, but they can be rigged up easily enough.
oh. and i have experience with it. i have one in my colorado. Try staying in YOUR lane when you don’t know whom you are addressing and what they are or are not experienced with. Thanks though.
Group hug, everyone. We’re all on the same side. Thanks for the effort.
Requirements are concealed from view…nothing should be recognizable as a gun mount or container. LE racks are completely off the list. Rapidly accessible means within reach of the driver. It should also be a part of the car so that nothing can be moved or taken.
The gun(s) will be a 10.5 - 16" AR with RDS, 30rd mag inserted. Smaller form factors are an option if that’s all that will fit.
The console can be rebuilt, but will be a lot of effort. If that develops I’ll follow up with results. Best option looks like a faux seat back, which is a pretty good, universal method. I had hoped to avoid a discreet pack, but it may be the simplest.
oooOOO! faux seat back… now THAT has some promise to it. keep us updated on that…
I want to say it depends on the “mission” or purpose of why. If that is confidential, that’s fine.
I own a Mitsubishi Outlander and in the tailgate/trunk area is a small storage lid compartment. Once you remove the lid there is a sectioned off styrofoam 3 compartment storage “box.” This box is removable and opens to the frame of the vehicle. In such an area it would be possible to shove in some pelican case foam cutouts for a rifle and pistol.
If that gives you any ideas. Accessibility is decreased, however, if the need for a rifle ensues, I figure I have a pistol to fight my way back there from within the vehicle. I can comfortably climb over.
First off I think in a smaller car like that you’d be best off with an SBR or AR pistol .
Second I would think of concealment with a 20 round mag in place and 30 round spares close by. This way gives you a few more options.
Some ideas :
Does it have a map holder in the door by your leg ? Lower part off doors have lots of available dead space .
Glove box, cut an opening inside to "drop gun in vertically . Just don’t keep registration in there any longer 
Playing with center console options:
Sheets of kydex are pretty cheap vs cutting into a car console and making a mistake . Pull console , heat kydex in oven while soft lay over console . Heat gun to perfect mold . Trim all edges place in car and start trial and error cuts . Once you get the model you want take the measurement and apply to real console , hell drop the kydex back over the console for rough blue print , mark with dry erase marker .
Bad thing about looking at mounting inside the doors is that if you happen to be in a crash or someone damages your door, there is a high likelihood of your carbine being damaged too. Good luck explaining that part of the claim to the insurance agent. Interior of the vehicle protects it much more.
Glove compartment areas usually also have the passenger side airbags, so I don’t know that would be a good area to mess with without knowing either what you’re doing and where things are laid out. They also should not be removed from the vehicle, as they are safety equipment. I don’t know that there is enough room otherwise as well.
What about a false floor platform over the carbine in the rear passenger compartment floorboard?
Actually airbag is above glovebox and place on a reinforced brace . Anywhere in a vehicle a weapon would be damaged in a significant accident . For example floor board , engines and drive trains are designed to drop and go backwards . If you worry about accidents , then you will have to take into account design features for your model of car . Holmaltro extrication tools put out a great book showing impact zones , crumple zones , pretentioners , pyrotechnics , impact sensors , etc … All cars are designed to take impacts differently . If accident is a concern then don’t hide a weapon . It will either become stuck , damaged or a projectile to impale someone . But got point 
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Have you thought about hiding the carbine in the upright part of the right front seat? Some vehicles have zippers on the covers, but I cannot tell from the Honda website if these seats have zippers or not.
If the seat cover does not have a zipper, you could always have one installed. Then you could place rigid material in a hollow area inside the seat back to keep sharp parts of the carbine from getting snagged on foam, etc.
I considered many options when I was in the same boat. Finally settled on the following to conceal my old 16" AR fully assembled in my SUV for the last three years:
Any hard or soft case of your liking, a large gym style bag will attract less scrutiny and interest than a hard case for a weapon, guitar or other large equipment but a hard case will obviously protect the weapon more. I had a large hard case originally intended for a bass guitar and I just went with that. Did not need to modify the padding inside the case at all, mashing the case together worked fine and it was a cheap case that I did not care about. Some more expensive guitar cases feature locks which may deter anyone who may be riding in your back seat from poking around and ending up asking the age old question: “What the **** are you doing with a big gun in your car? That looks scary!” So for the purpose of concealing it from people you DO want in your car, a locking case may be best, but of course it may take marginally longer to access the weapon. Now, the good part: In order to secure the weapon from any lookiloos who may spy a large case in my vehicle in a dark parking lot and deduce that there is probably something pawnable inside, I routed some thick steel chain from Home Depot around a beefy mount in my vehicle’s frame for the rear seats. No cutting of any panels or carpet was necessary in my Expedition, YMMV. The chain was padlocked to itself at this point and then routed beneath the seat to the cargo area where the case lived behind the rear seat. A small cut was made into the rear of the case with a Dremel and a cutoff wheel and the chain was again routed inside and then through the magwell and out the ejection port where it was, again, padlocked to itself. The trigger guard would also work, or perhaps a skeletonized stock BUT even if the lower had an integrated trigger guard, the weapon could still be removed in combat effective condition without tools by anyone willing to rip it out by brute force. The trigger guard would probably snap off, possibly some portion of the lower, no way to guarantee it wont be good to go afterwards- unacceptable. So, magwell it was. Could be made faster and easier to insert and remove if you used braided steel cable at this point instead of chain, your call. Some people carry multitools with wire cutters and may be ballsy enough to hang out in the car they just broke into while they work through some steel cable… I know Ive cut 6-8mm steel cable with my leathermans in a few minutes… The way I routed the chain under the rear seat and set the case right up against the rear seat, nobody in or out of the car could see the chain unless you got under the seat. Again, takes longer to set it up every damned day and under stress it would seem to take forever to release BUT… This will secure it against a smash and grab robbery- most guys who go smashing windows in cars dont go in expecting to need to pick decent locks or cut steel chain- who brings bolt cutters to break into cars? So I may be out a window if I dont properly cover the weapons case with shit- clothes, mainly, but at least it shooould still be there. And though it may take another ten seconds or so to get in the back of the vehicle, open the case, unlock the weapon, lock the bolt, pull the chain out, grab a mag, gas up, grab the go bag with extra mags and medical supplies… I would still probably arrive on scene a metric shitload sooner than any LEO, unless we were extremely lucky. AND, I dont know about you, but I trust in my equipment and level of training, and not to derail a thread but simply to provide reason for all of this enterprise… I dont necessarily trust ever LEO’s. In fact I trust very few of them as far as their capability to respond reasonably and effectively to situations requiring the use of force. No offense, gentlemen.
Anyhow. Thats what I did. I now just drive a car with a trunk to simplify things. And I carry a well-built VEPR with a folding stock in a small, innocuous gym bag I picked up at Goodwill for the whopping price of five dollars. The bags just for carrying it to and from the vehicle. It doesnt win points with LEOs who stop me and search my vehicle after they hear that, yes, officer, I am carrying a firearm- but it also does not elicit suspicion from my neighbors. Can be just as effective with my AKs as my ARs… Learn to control and deal with the weight and recoil… Adapt the gear for different mags, etc… So thats something to consider… A folding stock-capable weapon. And yeah, I know about the Law Tactical adapter. I trust it about as much as anyone. Which is not. At all. But to each his own. Youre probably never going to need this anyways so. Eh.
Sorry I never took any pics of this setup. All told it was about $20 in chain, lock prices vary obviously depending on quality, gotta have some way to cut the chain yourself annnd if you rock a sweet, cheapie gym bag like me, like I said, you can find em pretty cheap. Just disinfect the shit outta it, naturally, if its used.
Good luck.
Edit: I know you were asking for a center console solution, sorry for not having one- but I do have a question that may alleviate the need for a center console solution… When are you going to be accosted while inside a vehicle and say A-HA! I know! Ill just pull out my CARBINE! Have you experimented much with a carbine inside a vehicle? Do you not carry your handgun at least in an area accessible from the drivers seat if not on your person? Could you not make better use of this handgun from the drivers seat to neutralize or at least subdue the threat until you could exit the vehicle, get around to the back and get your real weapon ready? Just some thoughts. Juuuust some thoughts.