I agree that going SBR makes a lot of sense. While you can have a pinned/welded muzzle device removed, the cost does add up… Randall of AR15Barrels.com charges $30 to attach and $25 to remove. If you can set aside a few bucks more it helps a lot.
Very true, I will likely now save for the stamp or go 16in.
Anyone have any input if the ARP barrels might perform up to my criteria? Or if the 1/8-28 vs 5/8-28 is that big a deal?
^^^^ This.
Interested too in the merits of 5/8 vs 1/2 muzzle threads.
I have a couple ARP barrels in the safe and are some of the best shooting barrels I own. I have a 277WLV ARP and a 12.5" 223 wylde ARP. I have so had a 6.8 in the past. Great barrels for the money! I’ll have to see if I can find some pics of some of my groups I’ve shot with them.
As for the 1/2x28 vs 5/8x24 threads, Harrison does so stating it reduces the chance of the threads swelling/bulging. This can apparently happen when shooting suppressed over time. I haven’t had that happen nor really heard of it happening.
Also depending on your choice on muzzle device it may not be available in 5/8x24 thread vs the standard 1/2x28. Most companies do offer both thread patterns but some do not…
There are a few barrels that are generally accepted by a relatively broad base of shooters. You should try to stay out of the weeds on your first rifle and get one of the better-known brands. BCM, Rainier, Centurion come to mind. After owning several rifles with chrome-lined barrels, I recently opted for a nitrided barrel on the last rifle I built – a 16 inch Voodoo. I only have about 2500 rounds through it, but I’ve been very satisfied with its accuracy. Same barrel used on Huldras - I’ve seen them to be very accurate (they guarantee 1 MOA) and durable.
Noveske, BCM, DD, Rainier Arms…can do no wrong with either. Just comes down to preference, twist rate, weight etc.