I’ve been searching for any information on pinning the STR stock but can’t find anything other than instructions for pinning the CTR. Seems like the problem is the non-removable battery tubes that prevent access to the lower side of the buffer tube. I can’t come up with any reasonable place to put the pin other than under the rubber cap. Still, I can’t tell if that’s high enough to actually bite into the tube, or more importantly, forward enough to contact the tube if the stock is in any position other than fully collapsed.
Has anyone successfully pinned the STR without demolishing the stock?
Just run the pin through the friction lock lever on the front of the stock but so it still goes through the center structure if that makes sense. It doesn’t need to actually go into the RE since the statute just says it has to be non-collapsing.
i think that you can just drill a self tapping screw under the friction lock into the stock itself. once its in, grind off the head of the screw to give it a cleaner look.
Haven’t thought of that method before, but it seems somewhat feasible. 2 issues I can see already being that a screw going upwards through the friction lever and into the frame of the stock might split the polymer frame. Second potential problem being, is the friction lock (fixed in a locked position) actually strong enough to prevent the stock from sliding into different positions? Last thing I want is a LEO or ATF agent pushing the butt stock against the ground and making the stock collapse.
So long as you catch enough meat of the stock with with the pin you should be fine, one would have to shear the pin for it to release. And being a state law ATF could care less.
TheHolyCannoli, I’ve also thought of using epoxy to “glue” mine in place so to say. Some epoxy’s are very strong, stronger then pin’s. This might be a better option. I’m not worried about the parts never working again. When we do get out of New York, I’ll just get a new stock, ET, end plate ect and be done with it then.
I’m being very cautious as well. I’d hate to do it the wrong way and have ultra anti andy cuomo’s personal army, the New York State Police jam me up. As you can imagine, this guy is horrible and out of control. The NYSP are going to do what he tells them to do.
Maybe I’m confusing something since I’ve never actually played with a stock that has the friction lock.
This is my understanding of how they work…stock locks into position using the typical adjust lever, then the friction lock is engaged to essentially camp the stock and buffer tube together a bit tighter to eliminate wobble. To move the stock, you squeeze the typical adjust lever, which simultaneously retracts a tab/pin from the buffer tube slots and disengages the friction lock.
So with that set up, the friction lock better be damn strong to keep the stock from moving if I squeeze the adjust lever and retract the tab/pin from the buffer tube. From a physics standpoint, I can’t see how the drag of the friction lock is going to keep the stock in place.
On the STR and CTR depressing the standard latch mechanism forces the manipulation of the friction lock. If the friction lock cannot be manipulated the standard latch will not disengage, thus the position of the stock cannot be changed.
I pinned my old CTR for a ‘featureless’ build here in CA.
just need a 1" x 1/8" roll pin. took about 2 minutes.
a little bit of a crude photo, but it gets the point across. Just drill an 1/8" hole, and squeeze the pin in. You’re just preventing the latch to disengage.
I can’t tell from the pic but does the pin run through that little notch directly under the lever to the left of the cross-bolt? If if does you know you can just pull down on the cross-bolt and reposition the stock still right?
Actually you’re right, I forgot that on the CTR I had to run another roll pin going up through the friction lever too (you can see the fuck up to the left of the friction lock- it went in crooked)
I ended up switching to a SOPMOD, using the same idea through the latch. This CTR is now on my 15-22.
This may be stupid but whats to stop you from drilling down from the top? Close to the front so your cheek doesn’t contact the pin? Then tap in a roll pin until its flush. Am i missing something?
