it says non-crosive and good to 1600 degrees, so I used it and NOW everyone says dont use it…
How can something that says non-crosive, and have traces of graphite?
I thought I was GTG intel I went online for a msds sheet, and NOW see graphite :sad:
What would you do?
I use Loc-Tite C5A anti seize and have been for years. It works without any problems at all. YMMV.
Graphite isn’t corrosive unless you sandwich it between steel and aluminum.
+1 for Locktite C5A. Regular grease with a pile of moly powder mixed in works, too.
well it is between steel and aluminum…its a barrel nut.
Checking the MSDS sheet, this stuff looks to have more graphite than the other.
I’ve done a few uppers, and varied from anti-seize to moly and even slip 2000 EWG on the last. Never noticed a difference in how the weapon functioned.
If the purpose of the grease/what ever would be to prevent galling of the receiver threads…my question would how often are you taking off your barrel nut?
Graphite, schmaphite. I have been using it for around 4 years or so and not one of the AR’s I have built or worked on has ever had an issue.
True…but there is anodizing there as well which protects it. Just put some grease on it and call it a day.
Who’s telling you not to anti-seize?
Most will tell you that you shouldn’t build without it.
Its not the anti-seize, its the graphite IN the anti-seize.
You’re right! I just checked the MSDS and there it is: 10-20% graphite.
I can tell you that in some aerospace applications, graphite is a no-no. Reasoning is that it accelerates galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. On the other hand, I trust Iraqgunz’ experience and feel that a Loctite C5-A won’t hurt anything on an AR.
C5-A on the barrel nut still protects a darn sight better than nothing on a barrel nut!
If you’re really anal, mix up some graphite free anti-seize yourself. I’m cheap so I use marine bearing grease with moly powder. Works fine. Could always add some powdered silver or copper.
Reference for why graphite is a no-no: http://corrosion.ksc.nasa.gov/pubs/tm584c.txt
To summarize, the following recommended practices should be
observed to keep galvanic corrosion to a minimum.
a. Avoid the use of widely dissimilar metals in direct contact.
b. When dissimilar metals must come into contact, they should be separated by using nonconductive barrier materials, a paint coating, or by plating. ([i]Such as the hard ano' on an upper receiver and the grease on the threads[/i])
c. The anode should be as large as feasible in relation to the cathode.
d. Coat both the anode and the cathode with the same material.
e. When possible, install fasteners that have been dipped in epoxy mastic coatings in accordance with KSC-STD-C- 0001.
f. Seal threaded inserts with epoxy mastic coatings prior to insertion into castings. g. Avoid the use of lock or toothed washers over plated or anodized surfaces. ([i]Case in point: AR hardware tends to use threadlocker rather than Nord Lock or toothed washers.[/i])
h. Use only dry-film lubricants that are graphite free [MIL-L-46010 (MR) is graphite free].
At least what I used shows <10
I cant think of the word, for why I think your saying this, but do you mean like zink on a boat? something added for it to attack of needed?
If so it also has aluminum…where the C5-A has copper
Its this…
http://www.permatex.com/documents/msds/01_USA-English/80071.pdf
Anti seize contains solids, unlike regular grease. Powdered metal is common. In some situations metallic additives aren’t desired, so stuff like silica, graphite or molybdenum disulfide is used.
What is the reasoning behind using anti-seize? The TM’s state molybdenum disulphide grease to be used on barrel/barrel nut threads.
I have been using multi-purpose moly grease, interesting to see this about the graphite though.
A main purpose of the grease is being able to freely remove the barrel after years of it being put together. Having a grease that will not burn off easily is important.
The call-out in the 23&p is for Aeroshell 33ms grease. That’s what I use. One tube will last a LONG time. Why not use the right stuff?
I started using the Loc-tite C5-A about 5 years ago when I was in the middle east because molybdenum wasn’t available at my location.
I was easily able to obtain some of the Loc-tite. I continued using it for the simple fact that I could easily bring a small tube with me when I traveled and didn’t see a down side to it.
I have also completely taken down military issued M4’s and M16’s and none of them had any type of grease on the threads. That tells me it was either not being done or it burned off over time.
So IG, do you think the C5-A might not “burn off” as quickly as the call-out MS grease? I’m all for using the correct materials, but if something is proven better I listen.
I can still see some small traces of it on my SBR that I put together more than 1 year ago. It’s had at least 3K rounds through it if not more.
That tells me it was either not being done or it burned off over time.
I have to agree that moly grease would burn off over time, particularly with an auto or burst weapon. I’ve used “hi-temp” anti-seize on other applications in the past. That stuff stays on the threads for a long, long time.