Like many here, I have some stripped AR lowers that I am looking to put parts in.
I’m right handed and have never felt the need to run an ambi-safety, but thought I might give one a try (and I have family members that are lefties, but not leftists).
I’m probably going to go with the Bad from Battle Arms but noticed the Hera Multi Purpose Safety Selector.
I did a search, but found no information on it.
I was curious if anyone was running it?
Thanks in advance.
You didn’t do a good search because damn near everyone here that I know is running it. I have put them on four rifles. The multiple, individual configurations make it tough to beat.
I think he was asking about anyone using the Hera Multipurpose Safety Selector.
I have the B.A.D.-A.S.S. on both my ARs and couldn’t be happier with it. Will definitely be putting it along with a BCM Gunfighter on any future ARs. It’s up to personal preference on which levers to use.
No I was trying to find information on the offering from Hera. I know that the Bad is good kit.
I guess I poorly worded the request for information on the selector from Hera.
I do appreciate your opinion of the Bad though.
Noveske STS 60 degree safety - I have it on my two main ARs and like them alot. Less expensive than some of the other ambi safeties on the market, and the same switches as on my SCARs.
Cannot beat Battles Arms customer service. After dealing with Battle Arms I probably will not try another selector. I have no experience with Hera, Sorry.
Guys, thanks for the replies. Decided I don’t need to be a test dummy.
I will go with the proven bad.
Happy New Year to you all.
Chuck
Thanks, please remember to mention m4c if you order from us directly. M4carbine.net members always get extras 
I have a BADASS and it feels like excellent quality. Installation was easy, parts are perfectly made. I have nothing bad to say about it.
Does anyone have a Noveske STS that can comment on the noise? Yes I mean the audible click. I have one in the box, but my local dealer told me it’s actually loud enough that it might be detrimental to hunting.
I have two of these mounted. They’re “loud” but so is a damned gun shot…
They’re not as quiet as the BAD but they’re just as “loud” as any other milspec safety.
Having tried many selectors, the bad-cass-st stands above the rest. And if you go slowly, you can reduce the sound of the click.
Whoa! That is good information to know. Might have to pull the trigger on a set very soon.
Using a sound meter on my phone and placing the phone about 2" from the safety, I get a max of 78 dB when flicking the switch from safe to fire as quickly as possible and 55 dB when trying to go very slow. At 30 yds, that’s about 2 dB.
This is on a BAD-CASS-ST.
As mentioned above, if you go slow and manually control the detent engagement, it could be pretty quite, but not completely, when the detent clicks into the detent hole.
M4C members always get extra swag, it’s our way of thanking the board members, its operators and mods that have been generous and kind to us from day one 
Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. I enjoyed them on 1911’s and a few HKs. Then, I got my SCAR and really found out what I was missing.
I need to upgrade several rifles; damned shame the ambi-safetys weren’t a free upgrade from the Democrats.
Thanks! That has to be the first ever web-posted test report for sound pressure level of a safety lever.
The BAD and milspec levers are not too loud so I’ll try the STS as well. Most game I’m not worried, but coyotes can hear a lip squeak at an incredible distance, so I had to ask.
You should only be switching to fire when you’re on target anyway, so the small noise would make the coyotes look around in confusion for half a second before they’re shot.
You could also just actuate your safety about a thousands times to weaken the spring, which would reduce sound. Or trim the selector spring by a coil or two. Also lubricating the drum’s detent channel might help.
What is the difference between the bad-Ass and the bad-Cass? I’ve been trying to figure it out from the Battle Arms website but I must be missing something. Is it just the short vs. standard throw?
The way it’s attached to the drum. The bad-ass can technically fall apart if the screw backs out a bit. The bad-cass will function and stay together until the screws completely fall out, which you should have caught far before then.
I’ll take a few pictures if I get the chance.
I think I see it now. The CASS drum has a dove-tail that the selector interfaces with.