So I’d like to set up a 14.5" barrel for a 100 yard zero, which is what this target is calibrated for. If I understand correctly, I do the following:
Set target 25 yards away
Aim at center of silhouette
Adjust sights so bullets are impacting center of crosshairs, not silhouette
Am I understanding the directions right?
And the numbers along the sides denote how many clicks up or down on the front sight I need to go, while the numbers along the top and bottom indicate the number of clocks on the rear sight, correct?
Then check with a 100 yrd target. Same type circle. IOW, use “circles” to confirm everything.
Then use you target and aim at center of silhouette. It should be on the mark…
If you go from 25 yard circle to 100 silh. You may not get the same picture so if things move you won’t know if it’s you or the rifle. If you shoot the circles both times then hopefully you see the exact same picture… then when you verify with silh. and it moves, you will know it’s your sighting ability/picture and not the rifle.
With the 25 and 100 circles your rounds should simply move from circle to circle and show good consistency. I personally can’t see the silh. as easily so my 25 may land nicely in the circle but then move a bit on the silh… I know that’s me though and not the sights if I verify with circles for both 25 and 100.
Hope that makes sense. Basically eliminate all possible variables until verified.
It’s meant to be printed on standard paper, 8.5" x 11". If you’re talking about only the target and not the whole sheet though, I don’t know.
OP - it was easier for me to use one of the colored versions, either with the silhouette or reference crosshairs highlighted so it’s a little easier to see.
Yeah, just to be clear… you can do everything with that 25/100 target using the pdf file.
The second one is just a jpg image. You need the actual pdf of that file too. That’s only if your final intent is to shoot those silh. images. If you are going to shoot other type targets you don’t need that one.
I could not agree more with your target choice. I use a SR-1, which is pretty darn close to the B-8. A 4 MOA red dot sight centers on the target really well at 100 yards.
Getting old, B8 for me as well, used to be the B15. Make sure you use center of mass hold as the “6 o’clock” or “lollipop” can be deceiving as you may actually have a “flat tire” hold and be off on elevation. The COM seems more accurate to me.
Ah, I see. But is the difference between a flat tire hold and a 6 o’clock hold that significant? I’m not trying to go for ultimate precision, but rather just a useful, simple to remember zero that is combat effective out to about 300 yards.
Although the “flat tire” isn’t referenced here, some do use it. The problem is with the 6 hold, MY eyes start blending that hold into a com hold and end up with inconsistent holds. For lack of a better term or explanation-how flat is the tire?
You are going to be much better off figuring out what your 25m offset will be for a 100m zero. Each rifle will have a different velocity from ammo type to ammo type. If you are using a standardized rifle and standardized ammo, like the military does- then standardized offsets are useful. A differential of 200-400fps from the publishers data can equal more than a few inches at moderate distance.
It is an easy process, fire 10rds through a chrono, plug the velocity and ammo type into an app like Ballistic or JBM on the web and calculate your 25m offset for a 100m zero. Then confirm the drop at ranges.
edit just saw where you said you are looking for a zero effective out to 300. A 100m zero is not going to do it. Unless you are using a mil dot scope and are going to confirm your mil drop at range. Most BDC’s don’t really match up to the varying off the shelf ammo you’ll buy. You need to Chrono, play with the app (set the standard deviation or tgt size to 6in or less) and figure out the best zero range for your ammo and setup.
Example: My JP-15 16in is shooting 55grn Hornandy at 3015fps. I have a 3.5" sight over bore height. My first intersect is at 48yds, my terminal at 285yds. My round is never +/- 3" from my line of sight at 10yds to 300yds.
It’s personal preference. The older your eyes get, the more you tend to use a sub 6 o’clock hold or flat tire hold for precision shooting and zeroing. Use either one and measure your point of impact in reference to your aiming point to acquire the zero you want to use.
Run an A2 rear (LMT) or cut carry handle. Adjust the wheel to 8 clicks below the 6/3 setting and zero at 100 with it at 8 below. Go up 4 for 200 and 6/3 for three and thereafter, the wheel means something. Of course this is based on M855 but I’ve found it minute of IPSC plate out to 6 with 55 grain ball.
Of course someone will chime in to state they can hold the difference of 2 inches at 300, etc with ball ammo and a carbine.
I used that target in the PDF. worked great at 25yds. I let my brother zero his build with those targets too, they worked great for a first timer like himself.
At 100yds we used a B-8 and binoculars to confirm, worked as intended.
