I have googled a little bit to see if there is something out there already, but my question is does anyone on here have the same type of work done already for the AK47 platform as this gentleman has already done for the AR15? https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?107572-Zen-of-the-100-Meter-Zero
I have seen things like this all over the net for the ar15 platform, but not so much for the ak47. I have read the russian protocol for zeroing an ak at 100m. The hits should be 10" high than POA…The thinking I believe is they trained soldiers to aim for the waist and you should be effective out to 100, 200 meters (I am no expert and I am sure I just messed that all up, forgive me).
I bought an arsenal slr107 and they said they laser bore sighted the gun at the factory at 100m. I know the AK round isn’t a flat shooting round, but what is the flatest zero for the round?
I zeroed my AK’s open irons at 25m and then forgot about it. It seems they might have done a zero very close to that at the factory because very little adjustment was required to get POI=POA.
This is what I always did. Point of impact at 25M with the rear sight in the “1” or lowest position. Works fine out to about 225-250M. (will drop about a foot) Beyond that range you may as well use the “D” or “N” or whatever the “battle setting” on your rifle is. That is supposed to be a 0-300M setting. There are of course more numbered settings beyond that if you have some sort of area target…
Consider the wind, too. I never even looked it up until I was using an AK with a scope and had trouble hitting steel on a windy day. It turns out the 7.62x39 at 250 M can be blown way off course by a 15-25 mph crosswind. (As in enough to miss an exposed person)
Figure a 4 to 5 MOA rifle with (with typical ammo), a bullet falling fast past 250M, compensating for even a mild crosswind, lousy sights (if using factory sights), and the shooters skill. Not gonna be too pretty a group! For fun add a malnourished desert-dweller with sun burned eyes and full-auto = lots of bullets with no idea where to go.
But I digress…zero your rifle like suggested. You should get 4 to 6 inch 10 shot groups at 100M. (Less if your just shooting offhand) Double that grouping at 200M and don’t worry about Kentucky Windage until your past that range.
I eventually learned to consider the AK to be a very powerfull submachine gun. Intended to be used at similar ranges and a great tool for that purpose.
Get a good front sight tool, too. They don’t cost much and you’ll probably need it.
I prefer a 50/100m zero with a 7.62x39. Keep the rear sight on the battle setting and forget the rear sight has any sort of elevation function. The ladder adjustment is for KD ranges only. Learn your holdovers. With a 50/100m zero your trajectory deviation in a perfect world has a radius of under 1.7" out to ~150m. Drop is just under 7" at 200m and ~2ft at 300m.
Maybe I should snap a pic where I have my rear set at…I believe it is set to 1, and below that is a letter (I’ll look at it when I get home). I have an Ultimak rail cowitnessing a red dot. I am dead on at 25 YARDS (not meters). Then I go out to 100 yards and my hits are about 10" high just like the old method says it should. If the 50 yard zero gives me a more flat trajectory I will do that.
Joe mama,
Thank you for this info. Should I zero my iron sights and the red dot the same? I am sure the answer is yes. If so, what setting should I set the rear sight to when doing this “D” or 1 like in my pics.
