I’m planning a 14.5 midlength upper. I intend to add a AAC blackout and pin it to get inside the 16" requirement. I also want to install a 12" DDLite FF. Problem is availability of uppers that will work within the scope of this project. I guess my question is can I add a 12" DDLite to a 14.5 middlength with a pinned Flash Suppresor?
I don’t think I’ll be able to avoid sending off an upper to have the work done by a smith but I’m trying to weigh my options. I did search and was able to rule out some issues but I could not find an answer to this, I would think, not so specific question. Ultimately I’m really considering a 16" middy that I can send off and have cut down and the blackout pinned to come to exactly 16" and I’m wondering if I can add the DDLite later when available. Otherwise this project could get set back to a time when I could perhaps order one from BCM in this configuration already.
If I’m reading your post correctly, then yes it can be done, but a gunsmith will have to remove your muzzle device in order to remove the gas block to get the DD barrel nut on. Assemble it all back together and pin the muzzle device back on(possibly needing a new one depending on how easily getting out the pin went.)
If you mean assembling it from scratch, then it won’t be a problem…lots of us own that exact same upper. 14.5" with pinned muzzle device and 12" DD rail.
Yes you read it correctly 
My problem is availability of uppers. So I understand to install a 12" DDLite I would need to remove the gas block. Which would also require the removal of the muzzle device. And I assume that buying a 16" and having it cut down to accomodate a 2 1/2" blackout and still come in at 16" would not be that great of an idea, though wondering if this is feasable. However availabilty is so bad right now and not sure if it would be worth getting the work done or just wait out the stock.
That said you did answer my question.
It did bring up another question.
If I found a 14.5 pinned and had the work done, would/could removal of the flash hider damage the barrel? Am I at risk of sending a 14.5 middy with low pro gas block, 12" DDLite, and a AAC blackout to ADCO and getting notified that the removal of the flash hider damaged the barrel/threads and I’m screwed?
Why do you want a 14.5"? I would also recommend that your smartest option is a 12" Centurion rail. Because you are using a standard barrel not you can install and remove the rail yourself after the flash hider is pinned into place.
I want shortest available without doing paperwork. I have a trust set up and a lower thats engraved for a planned 10.5 project. However with the all the crap going on in washington I’m not so sure I want to go down that road at the moment. At least I have decided to put something on the lower until I get there. I know that a DDLite will fit the bill so the perm attached flash hider is ok with me and I don’t forsee any need to make any changes.
Can removin the pinned flash hider damage the threads? Without a doubt yes that is a chance you take, have I personally done it (along with plenty of other non-professionals)? Yes, I’m sure ADCO or any decent shop can manage.
Removing a pinned device is one thing, there is only one or two spot welds to drill out, a truely welded device is MUCH harder to remove without damaging the barrel, keep that in mind while shopping.
My advice stands. Get a Centurion rail.
You wouldn’t drill a blind pin/weld to remove it.
It’s only pinned in one place typically.
I think you’re confusing “truely welded” with the silver solder method. This is different than doing a blind pin/weld.
The way for the OP to do this would be to slide on the plate, barrel nut, and gas block before pinning the muzzle device. More or less making the barrel an assembly.
ADCO has removed them before, as have other places. Using an end mill or similar tool is the idea. They aren’t hard to remove at all, but the process will destroy the flash hider with minimal, if any, risk to the barrel.
I do hold your advice in high regards and I’m not ruling it out at all as it may be one of my only options. I really like the DDLite as I already have one though I dont have alot of experience with many other rails so thanks for your valuable input.
I think at this point it’s going to boil down to what’s available when I am ready to move forward with the project.
Thanks for everyone’s input. It has been very helpful.
You said you want to go as short as you can without a stamp. Have you ever handled a pinned 14.5 and a 16 with A2? Im talking about the same range trip or same day at a training class. The reason i ask is the difference is virtually non
existent.
I measure the difference in length of my bcm 14.5 with pinned vortex, and my 16 mrp with A2. The difference is 3/4 of an inch, and my vortex is right at 2.25". So if the brake/flash suppressor is truly 2.5 inches it will make the difference a half inch.
I measured with A cleaning rod from the bolt face. Im sure there are differences in the parts, but i know it is not a couple inches. It might be a centimeter.
It is a lot of trouble to drop an inch of overall length. If you want to go as short as you can with a pinned muzzle attachment, you can go as short as 13.75 inches with a pinned Noveske kx3.
No I have never put my 6920 with a2 beside a bcm 14.5 with AAC blackout, which would be the two I would be comparing.
So due to availability could I purchase a 16" and have it cut down to 13.5 since the AAC blackout is 2.5? I have a 6920 I want to put back to original config and I want to put together a midlength BCM with my AAC blackout. I have never measured my colt with or without the flash hider and I’m just in the planning stages at this point. However I want to get started within a week or two.
I guess cutting it down would screw with the dwell time and I don’t have any knowledge dealing with that can of worms.
The point he is making, which I show in my class is that a 16" carbine and 14.5" are almost equal and you are not going to notice the difference in handling. It’s not worth the associated costs and headaches.
So a 16" middy and a 14.5" middy are basically the same? Are the measurements without flash hiders?
They aren’t the same, one is 1.5" longer.
The measurements are w/o the flash hiders.
If you are unsure of your options, or are waiting to get parts, either buy the barrel last or get a 16".
I’ve owned both, and while I like the slightly smaller 14.5" when used with a supressor, I wouldn’t buy another one. It is a pain.
I wouldn’t cut it down then pin/weld it. If the gas port needs work to make the gun function that is going to be an even bigger pain.
I measure the difference in length of my bcm 14.5 with pinned vortex, and my 16 mrp with A2. The difference is 3/4 of an inch, and my vortex is right at 2.25". So if the brake/flash suppressor is truly 2.5 inches it will make the difference a half inch.
Not really apples to apples. If you’re using the same flash hider on both, there is a 1.5" difference.
Having both Lite Rails and Centurions I prefer the Centurion now for ease of install & removal, Integrated QD Attachment points, and shape.
I agree with Wahoo. Have both, and the Centurion is by far my favorite.
I haven’t used the Centurion, but the Lite wouldn’t be my first choice of DD rail.
The profile of the RIS-II is MUCH better.
The install/removal thing is not a big factor in a selling point for me. However shape and weight are. I know theres a chart somewhere with profiles and shapes…anyone have a link? I like the centurion and I’m definately comparing it to the DDLite.
Just want to point out that the RIS is wider and has less inside clearance and weighs more than the Lite. So the profile is greater than the Lite…not to mention I don’t own or ever will need a nade launcher. Basically the Lite fits the bill better than the RIS. That said, the Lite and the C4 are neck and neck in this race. I prefer the solid mount up the DD offers over the centurion but I am still researching.