I’m putting on an AAC blackout FH and can’t find their “tool” anywhere for sale. Does anyone know the degrees of rotation that will be equivalent to the proper ft/lb specifications (45-55 I believe) if I were using an open end wrench?
Further, do any of you armorers out there know how accurate that would be? Will “X”-degrees of rotation always equal a certain ft/lb of torque? Would it vary by rifle?
Put a wrench on it and tighten it down till it stops. Then give it another 1/4 turn. Should be good to go give or take. Just be sure to use rocksett.
Come see me tomorrow at Hoover Tactical. We have the tool to do it as well as for sale. Either or.
I didn’t even know they made such a thing. I’m going to order one but I have been just screwing them on with a Crescent wrench. I’m sure the special tool works better but a Crescent wrench works.
Awesome - who do I ask for?
Just ask for me (Austin)
There’s seriously a special tool for their FHs? What does it do special that a wrench can’t?
AAC makes a tool for the Blackout and Brakeout which grabs them by the tines. Or you can use a 22mm wrench.
45-55# ?!?!
Torque spec? AAC says 20-30ft lbs.
Since when is installing a mount equal in complexity to splitting an atom? :shout:
So does Surefire. OP posted 45-55#.
I don’t know that my question would put me on par with figuring out how to split an atom, but whatever. Since I am going to mount a suppressor on this FH, I don’t want it coming loose while I’m shooting and jack up my suppressor.
AAC is very specific about the required torque for each of their mounts (ranging from 20# to 100# for the 3/4x24). I have no idea why it would be that specific, but I would imagine they have good reason.
The instruction card that came with it states 45-55# for the 5/8x24.
Okay, cool. I did not know that. In your opinion, is it better to use that specific tool or just a regular 22mm wrench?
The blackouts that I have seen done by customers of ours with a crescent wrench have had the flats rounded off. When that happens all beta are off and the tool comes in handy.
Shit… I’ve installed a ton of those mounts. Get the shim that leaves you 1/8 turn from TDC when hand tightened as tight as you can get it… back it off… 2 drops of rockset, put it on, and tighten it.
Common sense tight and two drops of rockset, and it’ll never come loose. 
Every so often you get in that NO SHIM COMBO WORKS mode. 
It seems like either you nail it in your first couple of tries, or you’re there for a week trying to get that sucker right.
Back in college, 50% of the time I was driving, I was drunk. Not proud of it, but it is what it is. Did I get from point A to point B? Yep. Was it the smartest way to get to where I was going? No way.
I have no doubt that the method described has worked flawlessly for you and others, and I’ve got no issue with your approach. I would just prefer to torque it appropriately since it isn’t that much more difficult.
If we can get a degree measurement of rotation today when we tighten it to spec, I will share it in case anyone is curious.
Maybe this thread belongs in the technical section.