A few questions for you 442 fans

Now that this is in the correct forum.

I am thinking about getting a Performance Center Tuned 442 lock model, then removing the lock and installing the plug. (The reason is, it is a good deal on a used one).

Is the only difference between the lock and no lock model the locking flag, does the No lock model still have the forked spring part that would be used to hold the plug like the one that would be installed on a lock model?

S&W Performance Center Tuned vs Apex kit. Anyone have or shot either or both.

From what I understand, the PCT is basically a polish/hone job that would smooth out the action and the Apex is a spring replacement that reduces pull weight.

Can’t you get a no-lock 442 and have it tuned? If so, I’d recommend that route.

You may get more responses in the revolver forum.

Ive had a 340 PD with the APEX J frame kit installed and it was a negligible difference in the trigger pull.

Very subjective.

I recommend doing a polish job if you’re installing an Apex kit. Apex rebound slide spring is reduced weight, and the rough burry internals of a standard 442/642 makes trigger return speed slow.

Moved to the revolver forum.

I am very pleased with the performance of the no-lock SW 442 I received recently. Excellent out of the box trigger and sights are regulated to my most common loads. See details in the thread here: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?159192-S-amp-W-442-Failure-(Update-Replacement-Rcvd)/page4

Buy an older used no lock gun if you dislike the lock. Less money more gun smith guns especially the older one the less you mess with them the better.

I think the Apex is nicer than the PC version.

I bought a no-lock, added CT grips and Apex kit. Perfect pocket carry.

Get a no-lock they are still made,don’t fool with a lock gun . Keep it simple without fooling with taking parts out and filling hole. I have had no problems with the lock less action and they smooth up in a few hundred shots. Don,
't mess with the springs and make it unreliable. If its not broke don’t fix it or ruin it.

I wouldn’t do any lighter springs in a 442. They need all the spring they can get.

I have two 442-2s without the lock and the triggers in them are perfectly fine for a boot gun.

Agreed. If I was going to get a trigger job I would go with a real pro like Sokol who really just smooths things up a bit. But these days I am running a standard no-lock 442 and it is all you need. Stay factory.

Both my 442 No Lock and 340 have been flawless with Apex kits from the beginning.

I’ve handled two of the performance center revolvers, and they are nice. Others have given the better route: get a no lock. If your new purchase has an ok action, then it will smooth out to become a very good action. Smith has got it down good with their J frames. I suggest that you buy a new one because of warranty in later years. I have one J frame with a lock. It shoots great. But, every time I pick it up, I wish that it didn’t have all the junk inside. I’ve been shooting J’s for about 40 years, have several, and wish that I had a couple more. Apex stuff is excellent. My advice, though. is don’t fix it if it ain’t broke. Why? J frame actions are easily compromised when “monkeyed” with. Sometimes drop in parts require fitting.

Yep leave it stock and get a no-lock. great protection 24/7!!