I was wondering if anybody had experience with any professionally applied finishes on shotguns. The gun is parkerized now but it is a police trade in and has seen better days.
My other question is how durable is the epoxy that comes with Trijicon ghostring sights? Should I find someone to silver solder it on instead?
Thanks ,
Jeremy
I have installed dozens of those for clients who refuse to take my advise against GR’s. The way you install it makes the difference. I have never had one come off. Here is how I do it.
I cut the bead off as it is pressed in. I place the sight over the base and trace it with a pencil. I remove it and then I take my dremil and remove the finish inside the trace lines. I then dremil off the finish from the bottom of the sight. I then simply mix the epoxy provided and install as directed. Once my old dremil was FUBAR so I simply used a small file to remove the finish.
The above install procedure assures you are bonding metal to metal and not finish to finish. I have found not need to pin the sight.
Do not install this until you decide on the refinish of the weapon as you don’t want to put a tritium sight in a 200 degree tank of Park.
I did this with a Set of Scattergun tech Ghost rings the front sight is epoxied on.(Did the same as above) But the rear i had to drill and tap the receiver ,It has been Bumped and drop and has not Come off.
I do have a pin and drill bit to pin the front sight, but i don’t have a drill press to do that yet ,But I really think it would be ok.
I also replaced the Mag spring and used a Non binding High visible Follower . I would also think you should look into Alumn-hyde It comes in a rattle can and it is tough I, Used it to refinish a Uzi Kit and It work very good
thanks for mentioning the rear sight as I assumed the OP was only refering to the front since that is the only one that epoxy’s on, but you never know these days so it is deffinately worth mention.
Epoxy only for the front and drill the rear was the plan. Why the advice against ghost rings? How difficult is the rear sight install?
I already installed the scatterguns follower, and waiting on the remington mag extension.
I have an aimpoint r-1 that might make its way onto the gun since it is just sitting around.
the drilling and tapping was easy for me Just measure it and position the rear sight and make marks for the holes .put it in a holder and make sure it is level .I used a hand drill But if you have a Drill press that would be better ,the front hole was drilled all the way through But the rear hole does not, I measured the drill bit and marked the stopping point with tape ran the tap in and out about three good times and used a drop of loctite .Let me look I might have the instructions for the measurements for the rear
Here is where these blogs become a blessing and a curse. When one answers a question he can not assume the OP has the same skill level. So telling someone that drilling and tapping for sights and rails is easy may not be the best advice. I have FUBAR’ed both and I do this for a living.
If you have done this before then fine, however, the first time should not be on a $247 receiver. If you going to buy the tools you need consider it may be a one time use. Consider the possibility of a FUBAR and it may be wiser to take it to a Local Gun Smith.
If you intend to DIY then practice on a piece of bar stock several times till you have it right.
And yes, as posted, drilling and tapping these small holes is easy when one has done it before sucessfully but you will not be alone when working on this. Mr. Murphy is there to lend his wicked hand. Will you know how to remove a broken tap that is not even through the receiver yet and breaks off flush with the hole? Get that bit or tap broken off flush on that rear hole and it becomes an adventure. That is just one of the things Mr. Murphy like to add to the project. That tiny wire drill bit loves to walk and you end up with an off center hole and a sight that does not line up very well.
A special thanks goes out to Steve Rose of www.roseactionsports.com for repairing one of my GR install FUBARS. I knew how to do the repair but had never done it and did not have time to go get larger bits and taps or practice so I sent it to Steve. he over drilled the hole, tapped it for a bolt, cut the bolt off then drilled and tapped the bolt for the right size screw. Looked and worked great. I have since practiced this procedure and can do it.
very true what is easy for me Might not be for you .i have worked on weapons and FUBAR’ed a few .there use to be a Jig you could buy to do the rear sight, But I could not find one .I measured a hundred times and measured again took a deep breath and started drilling.If you have a Good smith and you feel you might not be able to do this .Go to them most will do a install for about 40 bucks or more.But will save you the cost of the receiver.if you are set On DIY then take your time go slow and make sure it is all lined up . and Like said Mr Murphy Is always standing behind you !!!
I may be old school, but I like the Remington factory rifle sights on an 18.5 inch IC barrel with the meprolite factory night sights and a simple parkerized oil finish…
Just my .02
B
I have an old school 1300, this shotty is going a different direction, more of the tacticool type.
If you were recommending a good home defense/tactical training shotgun, what would be the “setup”. What choke would be the best for buck and slug use?
I can not define the word “Good” as that is a subjective term. Any thing you get should be kept basic. Avoid Tacti-fool mess on it.
A guy who can say it better then me is Clint Smith. On my web site www.aiptactical.com there is a red link “Build your weapon” on that is a video of Clint talking about the HD shotgun. Watch that for the answer.
As for choke, I/C is the best all around choke. It gives you good groups with buck shot and will stablize a slug. Modified gives you tighter groups and is the best smooth bore choke, however, with these new tactical waddings it is really not needed. I have spoke with guys that even claim these new waddings make back boring and tighter chokes obsolete. So with this in mind go I/C.
The distances you might deploy this weapon in your home or even around your home are so close that choke is a non issue as at these close distances it will just not matter. I recommend I/C to my clients but for those that have property and out builds to check and may need tighter groups at longer distances I recommend Modified. I also recommend Modified for LEO Duty Weapons as many are in urban areas and they are responsible for every pellet from that weapon.
AI&P–glad to see you on the board here!!
Thanks Mike - I will check this site out but my Keep it Basic approach to fighting shotguns may not be well receiver on an AR site as AR guys love to accessorize weapons. I can atleast give the correct input to issues with the Remington shotgun and try to stay out of the rest of it.
Mr McGuire,
I am taking your advice as far as I can–We were using FliteCtrl but that may be changing, unfortunately…I sent funds for a mod bbl…if you can send it whenever possible…
I really Think in the way you said! I keep it Basic,I did add the Scattergun Tech GR and a Side saddle on My 870 and that is it .
Basic stock Although I have been Looking at the Speedfeed Stock,what are your Input On those Stocks?
I like the Ideal of having the Pistol grip for more control .But I am a solid stock Guy never have owned a folding shotgun stock
The Speedfeed IV-S is an excellent combat stock. The reduced LOP a big plus. The pistol grip gives you three major advantages over a conventional stock. It makes point shooting much easier, it gives more surface area to help reduce felt recoil and it is far superior in weapon retention which this point alone makes it a must on a combat shotgun.
Got around to trying to remove the old wood WM buttstock for the IV-S set–That screw does not want to budge! I put some penetrating oil in there and I hope this doesn’t have loc-tite installed, that it’s frozen in there really good:(
Foreend was a piece of cake though.
I hope this is not offending as I am sure this is what you did but so others reading this will know. And, I had a guy on another forum putting the oil around the bolt head in the bolt well of the stock, which of course is a good 10 inches from the threads.
I am sure you stripped the receiver and put the penetrating oil in the receiver stud where the stock bolt screws in to the receiver. I break the weapon down and I stand the weapon up on the stock and put some break free in the receiver stud and let it sit awhile. Second is having the right size screw driver. It needs to be large enough to fill the slot of the screw. I have never had a stock bolt whip me yet, however, I have had some strip and have to replace the receiver stud also.
Before I attempt to install a stock I make sure the stock bolt threads are not damaged and I screw the bolt into the receiver stud buy hand which assures me the thread in the receiver stud are not stripped. When the bolt goes in easy and comes out easy I know I am going to have an easy install.
Another trick I like to share is when removing a recoil pad I spray some oil on the screw driver so it does not hang up in the holes of the recoil pad.
A Reminder to take the stock bearing plate out as it is not used for synthetic stocks.
I am doing just that! Thanks for the advice! Got it from your site…I have a large flat (not tapered) screwdriver and am taking this carefully…