I will soon buy either one in six inch, 6 shot configuration. Purpose is casual shooting. I handload and want to shoot some maximum loads. Which should I get, and why?
The Ruger is always overbuilt and will handle the heaviest loads. You can do the GP-100 or Redhawk in 357. I’d guess the Redhawk 357 would be the beefiest of all.
For precision shooting, however, the trigger of a Smith is unrivaled for the modern revolvers. I have a 586 L-Comp and 627 8 shot.
I’d pick the Smith, personally. Even with trigger work, the Ruger is doable, but not the best.
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I have a Cougar that was built by the Davis company back in the day. Cougar is a Colt Phython barrel on Ruger Security Six. The action job they did on this revolver was so good, that within 6 months I sold my S&W full bore PPC pistol.
So I would get the Ruger and an action job
The Smith will be just fine. The Ruger has to be overbuilt due to it’s construction. If it was built to size of S&W it wouldn’t handle the caliber it was made for.
Get the Smith, or get the Ruger. Doesn’t really matter
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I’ve always preferred Smiths, even have a 686 with the dreaded lock - so far, so good, though I’ve never hammered it hard.
If you are trigger snob (guilty), the Smith is the better choice, though people like Gemini Customs has a great reputation for what they do with Ruger triggers.
All the being said, I’ve been more than happy with my WC GP100. Heard some say the extra frame thickness on the Rugers doesn’t make them any stronger than the S&W and is a byproduct of production. Not sure, but both the L-frame and GP series are strong enough to take full-house .357’s as that is what they were designed for, each “upgrading” more svelte models.
I only have one ruger revolver at this point and its the 10mm one which doesn’t stack up to my sw 610 10mm revolver despite being heavier the ruger has more felt recoil and to me isn’t as accurate. I’ve shot a few ruger 357’s but have never been impressed compared to my 686’s.
I do have a few 686 guns. I love them and they would be my recommendation.
I always hear how overbuilt the GP100 is, and for a steady diet of full power .357 it’s plenty strong (so is the 686). But there’s a reason the S&W 69, which is built on the exact same frame as the 686, is offered in .44 mag while the GP100 is only offered in .44 Special. Hint: cast is not as strong as forged…
I think you will be happy with either one. However, my first choice would be a very nice used 686. If you have the time to look it’s worth it.
Does the lock cause reliability problems, or is the objection just aesthetics?
Whichever I get, I hope it’s more reliable than my new $1700 Springfield 1911 . . . jam jam jam.
It’s both. Lots of people don’t like them simply because of the look but also there have been instances where the lock engaged from recoil or worse locked up solid and needed gunsmithing. However it’s mostly just the look. And like the mag safety on HiPowers, the lock can be removed without effecting internals
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I have the lock on many revolvers. Where over 2000 rounds on most of them and I have never had to lock engage.
As a comment/aside to the 1911 comment:
I have had 2 Kimber 1911s. Both were unreliable. I have phoned Wilson, and Brown, gun crafter and colt without issues though.
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It sounds almost like flip-a-coin between the two. I’ll just see what’s available and what the prices are.
I was in your shoes about 4 months ago. I bought the Ruger Match Champion. The stock trigger wasn’t great but it wasn’t bad. However, with a 10 lb hammer spring and 10 lb trigger return spring it rivals any of my friends’ S&Ws and I don’t have to worry about longer firing pins or using Federal primers. My vote would be Ruger.
Rugers are built like a tank and those heavy lugs really tame recoil, but Smith’s have better triggers.
Ruger triggers can be made almost as smooth as a Smith if you consult the Iowegian’s Book of Knowledge.
It depends on how many rounds you intend to shoot. L frames will shoot loose just like a K frame, it just takes longer. If your volume is going to be typical, it will do just fine. If you intend to shoot a lot of rounds you’d be better off with the GP100. As others have said they are built like tanks and have a much better cylinder locking system. Their triggers can be worked into a perfectly suitable action but the one thing it will never match a S&W on is lock time. Also you have the transfer bar that must be overcome to hit the firing pin hard enough. After shooting Smiths for so long I just couldn’t get over how long it took for that hammer to hit. Note: I was shooting DA in USPSA matches. For bench work the Ruger will be fine. I ended up selling both of my GPs but they are good guns. Have you considered the N Frame?
I went ahead and got the Smith. $125 difference. I’m not going to be shooting a steady diet of red-line loads. Probably load up fairly mild most of the time.
Good choice. The Smith will hold up for as many years as you can hold a pistol. I can’t remember the last time I shot full patch magnums in mine.
Thanks for all the suggestions and comments. I haven’t fired it yet, but just handling it, it feels pretty awesome. If Dirty Harry’d had a girlfriend, she’d have carried the six-inch 686. This is going to be a range toy and reloading platform. I’ve been shooting for decades, but this is the first revolver I’ve actually gone out and purchased. It’s in a different orbit than the plastic striker fired 9mm.
Bullets and brass are on their way.
So here’s what I’m thinking:
Lubrication on this should be much lighter than on a semi-auto, no? A drop of CLP goes a long way?
I should fire a couple hundred jacketed bullets first, to smooth the bore, before getting into hard-cast lead?
I’ve never opened up my revolvers for lubrication. Not even ones from almost a 100 years ago. And some have definitely been worked hard. They’re still working fine.
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Revolvers withstand neglect well but not abuse. I’ll go 2000+ rounds between cleaning with my Colt government but I lightly clean and oil my revolvers after every shooting session. The side plate should not be opened unless one knows what one is doing. I use Balistol and Mobil 1 as my go to oils. Use clean burning powder as unburnt powder can build up between the forcing cone and front of the cylinder and bind up the action.