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I have an Otis pull through kit as well as a one peice rod for cleaning. I have used the Otis kit on my .223 bolt action with no issues at all
However when I tried to use it on my new BCM upper the patch got stuck (to tight) in the throat area just after leaving the chamber.
I even tried again today after my range trip and same thing, the patch wouldnt come through the bore.
Why would my AR chamber/bore be tighter than my bolt action .223? -
why is my brass so much hotter from my AR than my bolt action. Even if I shoot the same ammo the ARs brass is hot for almost a minute whereas my bolt action brass can be picked up instantly.
What is your rate of fire with each? A hotter chamber/barrel etc will make hotter brass.
The chamber / barrel acts as a heat sink, wicking heat away from the case after it has been fired. The fired case sits in your bolt action rifle for a second or two before you work the bolt to eject it, but your AR immediately spits the case out of the action, not allowing the chamber to soak up the heat.
That explains the hot brass
thanks
I know what youre talking about with your patches being tight.
Are you making a 360 patch? I do 2 things:
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I use a smaller patch (.22 bore works well)
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I make the 360 degree patch loose
You have to pull kind of hard with them, you wont break your barrel, dont be afraid of it
Yes im making a 360 degree patch, and I pinch close to the loop which is supposed to make it smaller than pinching farther away.
I ordered some of the all caliber patches a while ago so i could use them in my 9mm and I figured I could use them in the AR or bolt action if i ever needed to.
But I think im going to order some of the smaller .17hmr-.22 cal patches. there only $5
for now ill try cutting the all caliber patches to a smaller diameter.
I just dont understand why its tighter, it should be the same size bore as a .223 bolt action.
Maybe it has something to do with the chamber being a bit wider, so the “shelf” between chamber and bore is bigger, causing the patch to get hung up.
Every time I clean my barrels real good, which is not often, it’s a fuckin pain for my dumbass to crack the code each time with right rods, patches, Otis dealio. Drives me fuckin nuts. It’s just me.
Needed to get that off my chest. Thanks.
It is my understanding that brass coming from a semi-auto is always hotter. The reason the brass even gets hot is not from the powder burn (that does make it warm, however). The heat is from the friction of being ripped from the chamber during extraction.
Once the round is fired, the brass is swelled slightly to take the shape of the chamber (which is why reloading involves “re-sizing” the brass). So, the brass is now very tight against the chamber walls, and then it gets ripped out with great speed during extraction.
Same reason that your barrel gets hot. It’s from the friction of the bullet traveling through it at 3,000 FPS.
Do you guys like your Otis kits?
I have one of the M4/M16 kits…its okay, I use some of what came with it and put other stuff in it. Its saved my ass at the range a few times for sure. They could be a tad cheaper if you ask me
the Otis kit is great for taking to the range and I use it for my M&P9 barrel
Its a nice portable backup. I keep it in my rifle case.
I dont use it for my bolt gun unless it needs cleaned at the range.
nah, not true. the brass does expand to fill the chamber but it also shrinks back when the pressure drops. not all the way but enough to be pulled from the chamber easily.
when reloading cases for accuracy in a bolt action match chamber, I don’t resize the cases at all, only the necks. all case shot in an auto loader get full length resized…
Well, damn it. Now I’m hungry for some proof. Anyone know of any “test” that someone has done?
test it yourself. just pick up the empty that has just been ejected and slip it back into the chamber…
or, shoot a brass case cartridge in your rifle with the extractor removed. lock the bolt back, then slip the empty case out with the tip of something pointy (I use the corkscrew on my multitool) or just push it out with a rod down the barrel from the muzzle.
don’t try this with steel case ammo though, it’s not the same…
I was talking more about the temperature of the brass, and why it’s hotter from Semi-Autos
BRB (be right back)…
edit: found it! http://www.ar15barrels.com/prod/operation.shtml
thought it would be more specific in regards to the case springing back close to its original diameter but rest assured, it does. otherwise you would be ripping the heads or rims off the cases, not extracting them…