1st Build Opinions

AR/M4 AR General Discussion
1

Hello, I am new to the forum but very experienced with firearms. I have been shooting rifles and handguns extensively for quite a while. I just graduated from high school and my awesome dad got me a lower to start a build of my own. I’ve been researching the AR platform for two or three years at least, and have become very well versed - watching hundreds of hours of youtube videos and reading endless forum content about every part and upgrade you could think of. I’m going start purchasing and building the remainder of the firearm after I get back from BMT, AIT and OJT. Gotta love those USAF acronyms! I’ve settled on a SPR-ish type build. It will be used mostly for target and varmint uses minimum range would be about 100 yards to a maximum about as far as I can realistically hone my skills at my range (probably 400-500 yards??). Give all the feedback and firsthand advice you want to a first time AR builder. So here is my idea:

Lower: Northtech Defense Billet NT15S
Reason: Free
Trigger: Geissele SSA-E
Reason: 2 Stage, Non Adjustable, and a very reputable quality company
Safety Selector: V Seven Hybrid 3 Gun Sport – ambi version
Reason: It’s lightweight, appears to have a nice texture and also it’s different from the B.A.D. safety that everyone uses
Mag Release: Seekins
Reason: Texture and Aesthetics
Bolt Catch: Seekins
Reason: Texture, Aesthetics and Surface Area
Lower Parts Kit: DPMS Minus FCG
Reason: Rest of Lower Parts and most parts come from same factories
Stock: Magpul MOE Rifle
Reason: Solid Platform and Cheek Weld – Still debating going with UBR. Are the UBR’s as solid as a fixed stock?
Chrome Silicon Buffer Spring
Reason: Quieter, less wear on receiver extension, longevity
Pistol Grip: Ergo Tactical Deluxe
Reason: Rubberized for better grip and finger grooves for more consistent shot-to-shot finger and hand placement
Barrel: Still For Debate WOA SPR 18”, Rainier Arms Match SPR 18” or Mega 18” SPR
Reason: Would prefer 1:7.7 twist but that is not common enough so 1:8 twist is what I’d probably go with. Maybe 1:7 for cheaper ammo? Will 1:8 actually stabilize and accurately shoot 55gr? That’s basically all the local gun shops have – occasionally some 65gr but that’s double the price and not easily attained in larger quantities. Also a rifle length direct gas impingement gas system would be my preferred length and also because I’m not patient enough to dick around with a piston system. The barrels all seem to have great reputations but I’m indecisive because this is probably the most accuracy critical part of the rifle.
Muzzle Device: Fortis RED 5.56 Black
Reason: I shoot by myself at my own range so sound increase isn’t an issue. Also a flash hider wouldn’t have much of any effect on an 18” barrel and for my purposes a compensator is just a better fit.
Gas Block: Rainier Match Grade Black
Upper Receiver: Northtech Defense Slick-Side
Reason: To match the lower. Also because a forward assist isn’t needed for my intended purpose.
BCG: Rainier Arms BCG - Precision Match NiB
Reason: Nickle boron for lubricity and aesthetics as well as the so – called “better bolt” they include with it that’s magnetic particle inspected and high pressure tested. Also I believe it’s supposed to be machined to tighter tolerances… but who knows ha I doubt it. Also the extractor and ejector springs are chrome silicon for longer life and consistent operation.
Charging Handle: BCM Mod 3
Reason: Ease of operating the firearm around the optic, very familiar with it from another AR
Handguard: Seekins Precision SP3Rv3 15”
Reason: Keymod is a great newer attachment platform and the flat bottom would be convenient in the need for an improvised shooting rest

Well that’s it! I appreciate your input and all opinions will be taken into account. Gunsmiths, experienced varmint and target shooters as well as anyone who has used any of these products opinions mean a lot to me! Gimme your input on the areas I’m still debating as well as a recommendation for optics and a bipod. Sorry this post got kinda long, but thanks to everyone who helps!

2

It looks like you have thought about why you want the parts you do, not everyone will agree with your reasoning, but that is the way of life.

In terms of some very small things - take a look at this thread for mag release and bolt catch - https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?165925-New-bolt-catch-from-Forward-Controls - look pretty nice, if you can find them.

Kind of going with the personal preference thing, I don’t care for finger groves. I prefer the Umbrella and B5 Systems grip 23 because of their comfortable angle and increased leverage for me.

Based on this thread: https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?169382-Review-Stark-griphttps://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?169382-Review-Stark-grip - I ordered and very quickly received a Stark Grip, haven’t shot the rifle with it yet, but it feels like it handles well and I do like the way it positions my trigger finger.

Reference the barrel and twist rates, here is a good thread on the subject - https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?67792-Barrel-Twist/page5

Have fun at basic, what tech school are you going to?

3

I think your off to a really good start here. Seems like you know your stuff. Here is my two cents on a few things I have learned.

Trigger: Geissele SSA-E - I have this trigger and really like it. however at times I wish it was a little lighter. The SD-E (Same as SSA-E but flat) feels lighter due to its design. I would go with this trigger for a precision build.

Pistol Grip: Ergo Tactical Deluxe- Have this grip, dont like the angle. My favorite grip I am using now is the Larue A-Peg. I have not tried too many grips but like the Larue very sturdy feel. If you want something with a steeper angle I know lots of people like the MagPul K series grips.

Barrel- Good choices. Of those I would prob go with the WOA. Also check out Lilja, Lothe Walter, Satarn: Just speaking with these custom barrel maker guys (even if you decide to buy from someone else) will really be beneficial. Much better insight that you will get from a company like Raineer which is nearly a big box store in comparison.

Gas Block: Rainier Match Grade Black- With a rifle length system a block is a block. So long as its steel get whatever fits and is cheap. You wont get any benefit from a “Match” block.

BCG: Rainier Arms BCG - Precision Match NiB - Some may disagree but I dont think your getting any performance benefit form a “Match Grade” BCG. You money is better spent on other aspects of the rifle. Since your getting a fancy barrel I would get one with a headspaced bolt specific to that barrel. I got a NIB BCG from PSA for $100. Sold the bolt and use my custom headspaced bolt in the NIB carrier . Runs great. Very easy to clean.

Handguard- I have a keymod HG and am now switing over to M-Lok. the components are cheaper (cheaper to make) and I think it will be the dominant format. For a SPR you wont be cluttering your rails with lights, lasers, or a bunch of mall ninja junk (i hope), Most likely I would only put a bipod (harris) on that rail (mount to simple $10 stud, very light) I am a fan of more than less slick rails. Love the ALG EMR line, great value, very light, and M-lok rails are easy and cheap to get. If you want to go with something a bit more fancy I would go with a Geissele MK 8 or 4 M-LoK, or a slightly cheaper SLR RifleWorks M-Lok rail.

Safety Selector: V Seven Hybrid 3 Gun Sport. I have not tried the V7 but it looks like a good product. I have a BAD ASS selector on one of my rifles, which I like, and the modular design with lots of lever options is also nice. On my other lower I have a simple Mil-Spec steel ambi selector, basically its two classic mil-spec levers, one on each side. Honestly I really like this cheap ambi selector ($25-$30). The action is very solid with a positive click you can feel and hear, more so then the BAD ASS. I like the fact you can feel with your trigger finger if your on fire or safe with long levers on each side. at about 1/3 the price of the BAD ASS I think this is what I will use for future builds. Downside is not so light weight…

Hopefully these tips are helpful and maybe gave you some ideas that save you a little money. Money which can be spent on… OPTICS! For your type of build, managing to stay under $1,000 on optics I like Vortex Viper PST/HS-T and Burris XTR II with a Bobro Mount. Another optic that has recently come on my radar is the new NightForce SHV, they retail closer to $1,500 but I have seen them just today for about $1,100 (Open Box, demos and the like). I have not tried the NF but they are know for being one of the best in the business and the reviews are great. I would not hesitate to buy a second hand optic. Most of what you will find on the secondary market is next to new. Furthermore companies like Vortex, Burris, NightForce have lifetime transferable warrantees, so if ever anything goes wrong send it back to the manufacturer and in most cases they will simply send you a new one.

For good deals on Optics check out: Market Place on this forum. Equipment Exchange on AR15.com forum. SWFA (matches any advertised price %110) and the Sample List on the SWFA website.

Good luck and have fun!

4

Here are a few photos of my precision SPR in two different configs. The lower is the same. Top Photo is my new 6.5 Grendel 20" barrel with ALG EMR Rail. The Second is my .223 Wylde 18" in a Midwest Industries rail (Keymod) both have forged Aero Uppers. the 6.5 rocking my Vortex Viper PST 6-24 in an ADM Recon-X (my Bobro arrives tomorrow… cant wait!) and the 223 is the same scope mounted in a Warne RAMP mount (Looks super cool but I dont recommend it, sits too low and does not have sufficient cantilever).

A final word about mounts. I suggested the Bobro because it has the best return to zero functionality and is compatible with different upper without making adjustments. LaRue and ADM also make great mounts. If you don’t need QD, ie plan on mount the scope and leaving it, I would go with a LaRue, call them up, they will take $50 off for regular (non-QD attaching mechanism). Any mount you buy I suggest getting the extended version with the most cantilever. Even if you don’t think you will need it you can alway place the mount further back on the receiver.

6.5.jpg
6.5.jpg865×865 86.4 KB

223.jpg
223.jpg1023×767 87.9 KB

5

So you want an ultra match barrel and only can get 55gr ammo?

That won’t work out well.

6

I would stay away from NiB. There are better options.

7

Something to consider. Ask yourself how much that upper will cost and then look at an upper from SIONICS Weapon Systems or even BCM that are already built around an 18" barrel. So where you come out at.

8

Thanks guys those are awesome points to consider. You guys know your stuff! Also tech school is at Sheppard afb for 2A6X1 job description is basically just working on f16c engines, excited to get started!

9

What do you consider better options than nickel boron?

10

Milspec phosphate finish.

11

Finding much better prices for the heavier bullets online rather than local places

12

I would look at this. Yes, it does work. http://sionicsweaponsystems.com/store/product.php?id_product=130

13

Looks like a great deal. What’s sionics reputation? Haven’t heard much of them.

14

I buy my ammo in bulk from Gunbot.net http://www.gunbot.net/

It searches for the best deals from a wide variety or retailers. Prices are listed as cost per round which make it very easy to compare. Defiantly recommend this site

15

Anything recommended by Iraqgunz is going to be good to go.

16

That seems to my general thinking as well ha

17

Ditch the DPMS LPK for a Colt one from Grant:

http://www.gandrtactical.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=SPK99796

Ive had a DPMS lpk and returned it. crap quality and craftsmanship.

18

There is a site called www.unbrandedar.com that has an intresting looking lower parts kit I want to order on my next build…

http://www.unbrandedar.com/product-p/elg-ntg.htm

The trigger grind and the look of the mag release interests me.

The site states…

longitudinally-ground trigger, which is ground in-line with the direction of pull along the long axis of the trigger, and then finish-polished. This grind and polish provide two significant advantages over standard mil-spec kits:

Who will be the first to try it. I may, i do need a trugger for my 300BLK build.

19

Sounds gimmicky to me. I would steer clear and go with parts from a company with an established reputation.

20

For ammo:

http://www.ammosupplywarehouse.com/category/5560/556-RIFLE-AMMUNITION.html

Good luck in your service. Have fun. Stay safe.

Oh, and there is a pic thread around here when ya get it built.