I have Gunfighters on all of my rifles however, on my last build, I used a Raptor. I’m very quickly becoming a big fan of it. If you plan to go full ambi, I’d get a Raptor.
Is this also your first AR or just your first “build?” Are you aware of NFA laws and what is required to run a barrel less than 16" and the potential issues you may have getting it to run? You’ve got a lot of specialized aftermarket shit on there. How much experience do you have running an AR that tells you you need all of it?
I have 10 years of law enforcement experience 4 on srt team and yes im aware of laws of running a sbr and pistol ar right now im gonna run it as a pistol with a phase 5 pistol buffer tube til i decide if I want to sbr it or not. No this is not my first ar I have always just bought complete rifles never custom just trying to build a fairly high end rig and would like more experienced builders opinion. I have heard really good things about the raptor just trying to constitute the extra 30 bucks for it compared to a gunfighter. For now im gonna leave the magpul the troys would be nice just thats alot of doe to shell out for back up irons once I get it to the point I want it I might go back and buy them. For now I like the aimpoint pro I have thought about getting a t-1 i might do that later and give this one to my wife’s gun. what do you guys think of the ms3 slings thats what I was gonna put on it because i like the 2 point capability.
Ill check out the vickers sling thnks and yeah I have nvgs through the department so the ir was a need I wanted in a low light situation sometimes nvgs aren’t enough and the ir capability was nice but I did not know a 500 dollar light was outdated? I duracoated the rifle myself so it was only cost in material. How is the phase 5 tactical bolt release a reliability issue I figured it was a better option compared to the bolt on style by magpul it seems made nice and functions fine now?And thnks for the other imput.
There have been multiple documented instances (though all the ones I know of were Magpul levers) where basically the weight of the lever is too much for the bolt catch spring and you would get bolts auto-forwarding. I don’t think reloads are that difficult with the ergonomics of the AR as it was designed, but if it works for you, go for it, especially if you’ve already spent the money.
I am running the Troy BUIS on my AR and I love it. It feels more durable than the Magpul. I dont own a Magpul BUIS, but a friend has one on his Sig M400 and I got the notion that I could break it. For me, the Troy gives me peace of mind that it can take a beating. Thats just my opinion though.
Also, check out Griffin comps. They are less expensive than the Battlecomps and some people have tested them side by side and found them better. I really like the Griffin comp I have but have not compared it to the battlecomp
I would wait on the Geissele trigger (SD enhanced on a pistol?), durakoting and BAD lever and put that money toward either a T-1 or a tax stamp and better sights. The PRO is an outstanding optic and value, but it’s a little big on a pistol or SBR build.
Also, I much prefer the padded Blue Force Gear Vickers slings with a Daniel Defense or Noveske QD receiver endplate to the Magpul MS3 and ASAP. If you want to run it single-point, use their Burnsed QD 2-1point adaptor, or their UDC padded QD bungee 1-point sling.
Magpul sights are fine, but I prefer Troys…and buying once, rather than upgrading later.
As backup sights, the Magpul MBUS is fine unless money is no object. Replacing the MBUS wouldn’t be (isn’t) my priority running a quality optic like the PRO.
Personally, I don’t like hooks on my slings…prefer QD buttons. In that regard, consider a Noveske or DD QD socket endplate and use QD buttons on your slings. NOT a fan of the MS2 or MS3 slings. Padded VTAC is a great sling. With the QD endplate, you can still run a sling with hooks…just put an empty swivel in it.
I have a Rainier Raptor on one of my rifles the rest are standard Gunfighters. The Raptor is a great charging handle. I can’t speak to the BCM ambi.
So I assume youre proceeding with the SBR build?
Duracoat will work just fine. It’s not as “permanent” as cerakote and norrells which i think is a good thing should you later change your mind. I personally prefer a simple rattle can paint job. Easy to do and easy to re-do.
