1911 multitool ?
I’ve been using the Caspian for a while.
http://www.caspianarms.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=CAL&Category_Code=TPS
It is OK but not great.
Anyone using a dedicated 1911 tool they like?
TIA
I don’t have one but I have seen a Wilson Combat.
Looks like a decent tool.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/525290/wilson-combat-1911-versa-tool
look at this
http://www.m1911.org/ezine/Pocketsmith3_frame.htm
My Wilson combat tool was too brittle and I ended up breaking 2 pf the 3 flathead screw drivers.
What version of the Caspian do you have? They are on their 4th iteration now. The link CDUNN provided is a comparison of the 2nd and 3rd generation Caspians. What exactly makes it ok but not great?
I’ve never really found a need for a 1911 tool. 
I’ve never used a one piece guide rod or any custom variants that don’t take down in the standard way, but…
Agreed. I have never seen a need for this type of tool even with the FLGR. In my opinion it is simply a product to sell to 1911 guys, which is fine.
I have either the 2nd or 3rd gen. caspian tool,I used it yesterday to push out some pins.
This. Don’t have a problem with such a multitool for convenience, but I don’t personally find the need for them. As Mark said, this is partly why I intentionally avoid the need for stuff like FLGR’s that can require specialized tools. If you set up your 1911 standard milspec, it won’t hurt accuracy at all, and all you need in your range bag is a combination of maybe a Leatherman multitool (such as a Wave) with the bit driver kit, and maybe a small set of hex wrenches, maybe a couple of punches, and you should be better equipped than with one of those multitools. Plus the stuff in your bag will be more broadly useful across other types of guns. Any more detailed tools than that, I just leave at home.
This exactly. We used to have 1911 detail stripping competitions at work on my well-worn Rock Island.
After some practice, almost everyone could detail strip and reassemble in under 5 minutes without tools. We had some scores that were below 4 minutes.
What did you use to push out the msh pin?
Use the hammer strut to relieve spring tension from it. Most of the time it would just fall out once the tension was removed, occasionally one would be required to blow on the exterior hole.
I think one time we may have used the little screw-type thing from the magazine catch as a punch when there was some grease holding it in place, although I’m not certain of that.
Ah, I can see that. So let the hammer down and pull the hammer pin removing the hammer and then using the strut. Nice.
I did want to point out though that the USGI’s were supplied to the Army with a simple take down tool originally.
Field strip as normal.
Remove safety and corresponding detent. Lower hammer and remove pin, remove grip safety.
Use hammer strut to force pin out that holds in the mainspring housing.
Use the hammer strut to push down on the mainspring housing plunger, so that the pin that retains the plunger can fall free, or be blown out using air from your mouth.
Use hammer strut to push in on firing pin so that the slide may be stripped.
Remove the sear and disconnect after using the detent for the slide catch to push out their pin.
Use that leaf spring under the mainspring housing as a screw driver to get the magazine catch out.
The leaf spring can also be used to unscrew the grips, although it will likely mar up the screws.
It’s all pretty simple if you spend some time with the pistol torn down. Like I said, on a pistol with relatively loose tolerances and some practice, you can come exceptionally fast at detail stripping a 1911.
The ease with which the 1911 can be detail stripped without any tools is the only reason it still has any appeal in my mind. They’re like the AR15 of pistols when it comes to being able to work on them in your living room.
Tools? You don’t need no stinking tools to detail strip a normal GI type 1911. 
http://www.sightm1911.com/lib/tech/toolbox.htm
The 1911 is its own toolbox. As it was originally designed, all you need is a 45 acp case. With the customs 1911s of today, I can see the need sometimes, but not for me. Tight bushings just mean I take the slide off first and remove the guide rod and spring then slide the barrel forward to loosen the “grip” of the bushing. Just my $0.02.
I got a Springer Loaded because I thought the FLGR would be great to have…well, after misplacing my allen wrench set, I said, “screw this” and ordered Wilson’s flat wire spring and spring plug!
The “custom” stuff resides in the spare parts box!