Who knew my first post would be talking to another Nebraskan…
(albeit I am currently transplanted elsewhere)
Personally I have had good experiences with Ed Brown products myself, though you might want to consider supporting NE’s economy and go with C&S.
I met Bill a few years ago at SHOT and he is very personable; give him a call and see what he can do for ya.
If you wanted that matte blackened stainless; you could have the screw grit blasted with Aluminum Oxide and then Roguard it.
Another option would be do a “conversion” coating process that produces a black chrome-sulfide.
Either way works and both improve corrosion resistance; a nice feature to have on a part that lives in the “suck” of salty, sweaty shooting hands.
regarless of make (ive had a few and disnt notice any differences) I suggest flat heads. I have stripped both allen and torx heads, and if you have a screw start to back out and your grip get loose in the middle of a class or match its no prob to tighten a flat head up.
on a related note, I also prefer to use rubber washers on my grip screws so they dont back out and it eats up vibration.
Internal hex and Torx and combo-head screws look kewl but have no great advantage of conventional slotted-head screws other than they are a bit less likely to get buggered up when torques are kept on the reasonable side. But, as stated above, having the appropriate driver available when you need it may be a problem. IIRC the original spec slotted screws could be turned with the rim of a .45 ACP casing. Hilton Yam has such screws on his 10-8 Performance web store, but the original screws from your Colt may be similar. Buy a few spares and replace them when/if they get buggered up.
There are many “improvements” that people make to their 1911s because they have to “customize” them that are a step backward IMO.
I actually replaced my Torx with standard slot screws…since I’ll always have a standard screw driver head with me or something that can be used as such.
After going through one fairly intensive handgun class with a Springfield MC Operator and their Torx head screws backing out under heavy fire evolutions, I went old school on all my 1911’s.
Amen to that. Another reason is because the heads of most allen and torx grip screws break off fairly easily. The hole goes into the head of the screw and is close to the same diameter as the threaded shank, leaving only a thin ring of steel between the head and the shank (next time you break one off, take a close look at it )
I look at grip screws as being consumable so don’t get emotionally attached to them. They are relatively cheap so use slotted screws and when they get boogered-up, toss them out and replace them with new ones.
Colts new custom shop web site has either their standard blue or matte blue grip screws for $7.00 for a set of 4 compared to other distributors who hit you for 4.95 a copy. Greg
I to have experienced head seperation with hex head screws. And these were from several major players, NOT John Masen parts.
I prefer the narrow slot screws.
Use a quality screwdriver that fits well, not a butterknife, and the slots do not get screwed up.
I had a problem with my TRP grips coming loose and the grips seemed to not tighten real tight. I tried the 10-8 screws and they work like none I’ve ever tried. I bought some extras to keep on hand when my others strip out.
I recently purchased a set of Swenson slotted grip screws in blue. The slots are too narrow to use with a case rim like the 10-8. The flat head screwdriver on my multi-tool fits fine. The finish is a satin blue… not quite high polished blue, but it is no where near matte parkerized.
They are really inexpensive… $2.39 per 4 with a Midway dealer discount.
Install them with a little clear finger nail polish or Loc-tite on the threads. They backed out on me at the range.
Another vote for the 10-8 grip screws. The original GI screw design is the best ever made. Being able to tighten them up with a Leatherman tool or a cartridge rim is pretty handy, and the 10-8 screws are probably the best-made rendition of this design.