Last thing I need is another caliber. I just added 10mm and Pappabear bought components for 38 Supercomp for when his guns get built.
AND I got 357 sig barrels and ammo too. I’m screwed.
I may have asked this before but; has anyone noticed 1911’s in .38 Super being more reliable than in .45 acp?
1911’s sometimes have issues with failure of the slide to completely close & chamber a round. I’ve experienced this in .45. Does it happen with .38, too?
There are different styles of 1911 magazines in .45, (feedlip length) for fmj, jhp, or a mix. Do all .38 Super mags have the same length feedlips?
Do Classic Colt 1911’s have a barrel ramp or otherwise feed Jhp’s well?
I haven’t had a .38, but I had that happen in a Colt 5” 9mm. I found that the top of the barrel hood was dragging/galling on the slide. It also had a poorly fit extractor (clocking) and the firing pin stop was wedged into place. Fitting a new FPS and a light polish to remove the burrs on the barrel hood made that pistol reliable. That pistol will be my last Colt. Virtually all of the small parts were binding and dragging. The only remaining factory parts are the frame, slide, barrel and recoil spring assembly. Even the channel the trigger bow rides in was full of burrs. After fitting a pile of Chen and Harrison Custom parts it now runs like a sewing machine. If you want a quality 1911, I’d stick with Dan Wesson or better. But maybe I’m spoiled, I already had 5 DWs and haven’t had any issues with any of them
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It could be worse. I got into Contenders 30 years ago. I have brass for cartridges I don’t have and have never shot. But, I needed them to convert to other cartridges for which there are no factory loads for. One-off wildcats are a whole nother rabbit hole. I haven’t counted lately, but I think I have over 30 sets of dies.
Damn. I do like that the 40 and 10mm sizer is the same at least. I can size and prime those in the same session. I have the 357 sig which I don’t reload. I’ve not shot that caliber in months, and I see the 10mm going down the same path.
I should be streamlining instead of bogging myself down more.
No Mark, we need you to keep shooting those manly calibers so that those of us on restricted budgets can live vicariously through your adventures!
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I’ll tell you… That 200 gr 10mm load I have does thump. I totally get the comments I always read about some 10mm loads just being about 40 cal power.
I’m getting like 1130 fps which some guys get a good amount more. But it hits the steel with authority.
Mark what powder are you using in 10mm? I’ve been using Accurate #9, but I’ve really started leaning toward Vihtavouri in almost everything else.
I load 180s just over 1200 using Accurate #9. I know I have some room left over, but it’s already throwing brass 18’ or so. I should change the mainspring and recoil spring. I don’t carry this for civil purposes, worry about over penetration.
I carry Underwood 135 JHP @1600.
4.25” 1911
Exact same. AA #9 and getting just over 1200 with brass flying 18 ft away. 13 gr for the 180 RMRs.
I did make some 180s with V V 3N38 just because there’s some at my house. But the Glocktalk guys were pretty unanimous on AA9 being the go to.
I’ll have to see if someone can hook me up with affordable gelatin blocks and give you guys testing reports once I start popping .450 SMC through a 7”…
There is a recipe out there to make the tan not so transparent stuff at home.
I’d love to test some of my JHP loads in that stuff too.
So far it’s just been wet U-Line catalogs, boxes of mud, water jugs, etc. Fun stuff.
I used to get Hello Fresh meals and the freezer gel poured into gallon jugs worked good for hollow point testing.
I’ve thought about loading .45 acp 200 gr XTP’s to +P with a low-flash powder.
CFE-P?
Or, i might just load the same BHN 18 LFN 200 gr coated bullets i train with loaded to @1050 fps for carry. (Also w/low flash powder)
Any recipes?
I’ve run CFE Pistol in 40 and it was quite dirty. Another loader said it might run cleaner loaded hot. I’ve not loaded 45 ACP in many years. With the Garmin chrono it would be fun to load again some day.
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Goal for me is to run the exact FBI protocol with 200gr and 230gr Doubletap factory loads, and a 260gr Gold Dot handload.
Yes, that’s what i found in my use. CFE-P likes higher pressure and 75%-100% max loads.
What’s annoying is i have a Turkish HP35 that is running great after a break-in. Eating all the JHP I’ve tried. It needs nothing, maybe a grip change, to be a swell carry / range gun. These are $500-600.
So why the hell is every new 1911 made, including Colt-made, either sub-$1200 junk, (as in considerable chance it won’t even work well) or $2500 “pretty good”?!
I saw new, $850 Colts and became interested. Then i found too many guys on 1911 forums sharing stories & images of poorly made Colts and malfunctions.
Inherent in the design. I’m not even convinced Toyota could make a reliable 1911.
The 1911 was good in it’s time, and we almost all still love it. But it’s never going to be Glock or whatever.
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I’ve got some 1911’s and if I treat them like my plastic guns they won’t run. If I treat them with care, extra cleaning and oiling then they run perfectly, just like my DI AR’s.
It’s why I don’t like to shoot my 1911’s as the care requirements aren’t worth the experience. But I don’t shoot my plastic guns either as they are generally soulless and have sold most off…Kept the HK’s though.
As I got older, moved to older guns with my C&R License, metal 3 gen smiths, berettas, revolvers (DA/SA and SA) along with milsurp unique rifles (ie. K31) that I can shoot 0-600 yards at my local outdoor range or CMP in AL.