BCM 16" Midlength Lightweight, Cold hammer forged
BCM Lower/LPK
BCM M4 Collapsible Stock – will be swapping out further down the road
BCM Gunfighter Mod 4 charging handle
BCM complete BCG
Magpul MOE Midlength handguards w/ rail section(s) – replacing with a Troy rail down the road
Magpul MOE Grip+
LMT Adjustable iron rear sights
Knights Armament Vertical Grip
Blue Force Gear Victory 2-point Sling
Grand total: $993 after shipping/tax
I shopped around a lot and ordered my parts from various stores, etc so I don’t have pics since I haven’t received quite all the parts yet; am expecting them within a couple of days.
I’m not sure what the actual weight of the rifle is at with all the things listed above but I was aiming for a very lightweight, versatile rifle. I’ll likely add a quad-rail and optics later but I want to start with a basic, quality “battle rifle” and spend the savings on training/ammo before I get all the bells & whistles.
This is my first rifle and I’m pretty darn excited. I’ve already enrolled for a “tactical carbine class” in April. I’m hoping that’ll give me enough time to familiarize myself with my new buddy before the class begins.
Am I missing anything? And in your opinion, is crappy steel casing ammo like Wolf and Tula bad for your rifle? Suitable for plinking and practice?
Dan
P.S. I know it’s a long shot but anyone else in/near the state of Maine looking to take a carbine course - Weaponcraft is the nearest reputable instructor/training venue this part of the country. It’s near Portland; Scarborough to be exact.
Wolf & Tula is cheap, underpowered ammo. It is cheap and decent enough for practice/plinking. One thing I really like about Wolf/Tula ammo is that it really test the reliability of your rilfe. I find that if a rifle runs on Wolf or Tula, it will eat anything. Being slightly underpowered, it can really test if a gas system is running right. I have had ARs that are 100% with mil-spec ammo that chokes on Wolf. But I have never had a rifle that ran with Wolf have problems with mil-spec ammo. So it is both cheap and helps you determine if your rifle is running reliably. The downside is that you will need to clean it much more often. Also, make sure to test it through your gun to make sure it can stabilize the ammo. I had a 10.5" that would not stabilize Wolf 55grn ammo on a consistant basis. Since I shot suppressed alot, I switched out barrels. The barrel shot well with full power loads.
I like the Tango Down vert grip because of the pressure switch cutout. But I use pressure switches with both laser & lights on many of my guns. I like the CAA stubby grip on the guns I don’t run a pressure switch on.
Totally with you on the wolf ammo. I’ve had AR’s in the past that wouldn’t run the steel, and I dumped them solely because of that. There’s a number of people who are pretty adamant about not using steel because it could damage your weapon (which, theoretically IS possible) though I have no first hand experience or friends who have had it happen, so I run it anyway.
I’ll second what has been said one the Wolf/Tula/WPA ammo…great for plinking and close range target familiarization drills. One of my weapons shoots the WPA extremely accurately at under 50 yards but it really opens up after that…3-4 inch groups being about the best I can achieve.
It is also dirty for this particular rifle. After a couple hundred rounds I get the occasional FTF caused by a VERY dirty chamber.
I am on my umpteenth build now and I am seriously thinking about going with the exact barrel you listed. Looking for a fairly accurate barrel to put on a ‘throw in the truck’ rifle and not have to worry about getting banged up but there when I need it.
WW
No one says you have to have a VG. Run it without one for a few hundred rounds and see if you like it, then try something like IWC’s handstop. It’s what works best for you…
Good job on keeping it dependable, simple, and lightweight.
Ammo: Russian stuff is good for making noise and tooling around. Invest in getting lots of XM193 for the class, look at Palmetto State Armory prices, they tend to be pretty good. It’s where I get my bulk ammo from.
Sling: Are you going to use the standard sling mounts on the rifle or a 1 point, 2 point? If the latter, try one that is convertible from 1 to 2 point, (due to personal experience, I would rather you avoid MagPul MS2 since at best it is unreliable and snags loose = carbine taking to wings while you are moving).
Also, with the sling question, with some modifications, you might want to think about where you want to mount if you go with the 2 point convertible, i.e.: rail section + QD swivel attach or this = https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=77525. You can also get an end plate installed that can accept regular, QD, or whatever clamping gizmo.
Optics: Red dot = get the AimpointPro or Comp C3, you don’t have to spend the money on the fancy “can be seen thru night ops,” and please - I know the urge can get to you to get a cheap optic, but think long term in to the future - you will want the one you SHOULD have bought in the first place. Your usage and the upcoming class will determine your needs.
Lots of controversy on this one, but think about getting very well acquainted with the iron sights. If you are a beginner user of the AR platform, then I highly suggest spending good time optic free, then get the optic and see your weakness and strengths with both.
Chest rig? War belt? What does the class require form each student?
Again, as with the rifle, keep it simple and don’t overspend. Find out what works for you.
That’s amazing advice. Work on shooting well before you spring for an optic. You don’t NEED the newest Aimpoint or EOTech to shoot well. Heck, you’ll probably shoot better than a good portion of people who are running optics if you practice a lot before attending a carbine class.
I’d definitely wait on upgrading the furniture before shooting a few hundred rounds. If you like a foregrip of some type, that’s fine, and if not, fine too. I prefer to have nothing hanging off the end of my rifle, but of course, YMMV.
Looks real good. I have found that if Wolf runs in your rifle, it will run anything and I haven’t found it damages anything. YMMV markm is right (as usual) about the quality, though.
I would get out and shoot the piss out of it before you add or change anything else. It’s now the gun you have, so go shoot it. You may find you don’t need a VFG at all (I don’t bother with one on MOE-handguard guns).
IMO once you have a gun suitable for firing the next step is firing. A lot.
Very nice setup and especially for the price. Love to hear back about how it performs 1000+ rounds down the road. I’ve never fired the tul ammo but I sure am tempted to try it for the price. I have used about a 1/2 case of wolf in the past without any FTF or other problems.
I don’t know how the gas port size on a BCM barrel compares to a Colt but I’ve been told that colts smaller hole is the reason my 6920 won’t run Wolf. It does run Brown Bear which I used once for a class.
For a touch more, you can get some IMI, PPU, or Federal M193. Run a case of that, so you aren’t chasing around stupid ammunition related malfunctions, then consider how much you want to spend, and what Rob_S has been going on about: shoot that case, THEN decide what to do with hard earned cash.
As far as classes in the general area(not sure what part of ME you are) Sig Sauer Academy is in Epping, NH which is a little more than an hour south of Portland. I have yet to take a class there but in my limited research they seem to offer some potential. Also being driving distance doesn’t hurt either.
It’s amazing how many places offer free shipping altogether or if a certain $$ amnt is ordered. I find that the smaller outfits generally use priority mail which is reasonable.
I’ll look into Sig Sauer Academy, thanks. I’m actually more in central Maine so Weaponcraft is about 1.5 hours drive from me.
I updated my original post with what I’ve added to it and the price point that I’m at. Yeah, as mentioned in another topic, so far not such good luck with some crappy Golden Bear ammo but NATO ammo runs perfect.
