Go ahead, vent. People seem to be having problems I've never had with the thing. It hasnt yet ever hindered me but I'm all about learning from other's mistakes.
Go ahead, vent. People seem to be having problems I've never had with the thing. It hasnt yet ever hindered me but I'm all about learning from other's mistakes.
Last edited by theblackknight; 08-20-11 at 19:08. Reason: im a derper
Because it is BAD
It does work, I'll give it that. I just dont care for screw-on gadgets on my guns. That and it requires slightly odd dexterity to manipulate it.
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." -Benjamin Franklin
I like both of mine. It has induced some failure to lock back on empty malfunctions. I suspect a stouter spring behind the bolt catch lever would remedy that.
I have gotten accustomed to them and for me they work well.
Many have had problems with it (bolt not locking back). I have not. The only problem I have had is that I am OCD and don't like the wiggle which makes me want to get the 1 piece Phase V version. However, I am going to bite the bullet and buy a completely ambi lower.....eventually.....
I actually like the bad lever but Imho it is to long so I cut both mine down so they are just inside the trigger guard. They still function but I'm less likely to accidently relaese the bolt during a mag change. My wife likes it because it is easier for her to operate anytime she needs to lock the bolt back. I would rather it be one pc instead of a bolt on but its what they make.
Make a new part that incorporates the bad lever into the bolt stop. ONE piece. Ship it with a new roll pin and a new spring calibrated for the extra mass of the lever.
Another complaint I've heard is the fact that there is a second dual function control inside the trigger guard.
The whole thing could be made moot by a redesigned lower.
Just some thoughts...
Muddyboots
Dirty AR Club
"Lube and GO!-If I wanted to clean out carbon I'd be a chimney sweep!"
While we're on the topic does anyone know how to get one off if the head of the screw is stripped? The torx driver that came with it is not catching the teeth inside the head of the screw.
I'd prefer not to cut it off as I'd like to preserve it for future use.
In heavenly love abiding, no change my heart shall fear;
and safe is such confiding, for nothing changes here:
the storm may roar without me, my heart may low be laid;
but God is round about me, and can I be dismayed?
Mine have worked brilliantly, stateside and in the sandbox, but I do agree that they're a poor idea for somebody not intimately familiar with the AR manual of arms to start off with, and are still misunderstood as to their best features. Slightly faster reloads are okay, and simpler bolt release is a big advantage when using a redimag, but double feed clearance is what they're best at.
While I'd prefer a Masada type modified lower where it's a simple ambidextrous bolt lock/release lug that moves vertically and has a calibrated spring for it, the BAD isn't a terrible piece of gear people are making it out to be, and if it wobbles some (because of tolerances between the bolt catch lever pin and lower receiver) I still wouldn't fault the lever, and those are pretty minor grievances.
عندما تصبح الأسلحة محظورة, قد يملكون حظرون عندهم فقط
کله چی سلاح منع شوی دی، یوازي غلوونکۍ یی به درلود
Semper Fi
"Being able to do the basics, on demand, takes practice. " - Sinister
Well...
The most effective way would be to drill the screw head to separate the parts and then gingerly grab the short remaining screw shank with needle nosed vise grips and rotate it out. Barring that, push the roll pin out and replace the bolt stop.
HTH!
Muddyboots
Dirty AR Club
"Lube and GO!-If I wanted to clean out carbon I'd be a chimney sweep!"
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