BAD Lever Bolt Lock Issues... Cut Spring?

[Dennis]

Many people (me included) have seen issues with the BAD and other levers causing failure to lock the bolt back on an empty mag. Intrepid users have tried many things including new lowers, bolt catches, buffers, BCG groups, and buffer springs with various amounts of success.

I think we can all agree a BAD lever is not part of the original rifle spec, but assuming we *want* to make it work, how about cutting the bolt catch spring?

Personally, I think this is a bad idea and would not do it on a serious use rifle, but it would likely fix the problem.

So the catch/spring was made to work a certain way but now you are adding extra weight to the catch with a BAD, making it harder to move out of the way and basically adding to the inertia required to move it. It would follow that a less powerful spring would allow the now heavier system to have the same inertia as before and work correctly. However, will a less powerful spring allow the system to move "easier" when not wanted and lock the bolt back at the wrong time? Is there a balance here or will a less powerful spring = less reliable operation?

Just a thought. Feel free to flame about not wasting time making an extra part work, but to me that's sorta what this whole forum is about

Dennis.

[Iraqgunz]

No idea. I won't cut stuff or make questionable mods in order to get a piece of questionable gear to work on my weapon.

Many people (me included) have seen issues with the BAD and other levers causing failure to lock the bolt back on an empty mag. Intrepid users have tried many things including new lowers, bolt catches, buffers, BCG groups, and buffer springs with various amounts of success.

I think we can all agree a BAD lever is not part of the original rifle spec, but assuming we *want* to make it work, how about cutting the bolt catch spring?

Personally, I think this is a bad idea and would not do it on a serious use rifle, but it would likely fix the problem.

So the catch/spring was made to work a certain way but now you are adding extra weight to the catch with a BAD, making it harder to move out of the way and basically adding to the inertia required to move it. It would follow that a less powerful spring would allow the now heavier system to have the same inertia as before and work correctly. However, will a less powerful spring allow the system to move "easier" when not wanted and lock the bolt back at the wrong time? Is there a balance here or will a less powerful spring = less reliable operation?

Just a thought. Feel free to flame about not wasting time making an extra part work, but to me that's sorta what this whole forum is about

Dennis.

[one]

Honestly, I just gave up on the BAD lever. I've not gotten them to run on anything from a 10.5 to an 18" SPR barreled gun. Got two of them sitting in a drawer now.

I thought I had it worked out recently in a thread I posted about but a couple weeks later it all went south again. Too bad. I really wanted the BAD lever to work out for me. But nothing related to convenience is worth the slightest sacrifice in reliability.

[Dennis]

The spirit of my post is given the following "accepted changes" in the AR platform nowadays:

- Enhanced extractor springs
- Reduced power/extra power buffer, trigger, and magazine springs
- Heavier bolt carriers
- Carbine, H, H2, H3, Spikes, Pistol, A5, Rifle, and super heavy buffers
- Probably a whole lot more... Not even to mention what serious 1911 users go through to keep their gun running.

Basically, I think the BAD lever and it's ilk are a not fully engineered add-on. Note the many ambi-lowers that are coming on the market now. Maybe a BAD truly needs a bigger design change including pivot point, but it sure would be nice if it just required a spring change...

You find out how new stuff works by trying it and maybe after lots and lots of trying, and testing, and others using it, it can become "standard".

Dennis.

[one]

My range life got a lot easier when I got away from 1911's and started focusing on Glock 9mm and HK .45 pistols.

Again, I like the idea behind the BAD lever but it's just not going to work for me. You see a lot of pics out there with AR's with BAD levers on them. But I don't think it'll ever be "standard" on anything but Magpul training DVD's.

[01tundra]

On a side note, with the BAD installed, my rifle (16" BCM middy) quit locking back with weaker .223 ammo after I switched from a carbine to an H buffer. I recently removed the BAD and installed a TL Enhanced lever, and now it won't lock back with the hotter .223 ammo that it previously had no problems locking back, only thing that has changed was the assist lever manufacturer.

I bring this up because I'm in the process of replacing my blue Sprinco spring with a BCM carbine spring and I'm also going to remove the TL lever. I will report back after the weekend, but I'm pretty sure my particular rifle doesn't like any add-on leversm, so they will be thrown in the junk box.

When I installed the TL lever I noticed that it seemed heavier duty / bulkier than the BAD.....go figure.....

[Dennis]

On a side note, with the BAD installed, my rifle (16" BCM middy) quit locking back with weaker .223 ammo after I switched from a carbine to an H buffer. I recently removed the BAD and installed a TL Enhanced lever, and now it won't lock back with the hotter .223 ammo that it previously had no problems locking back, only thing that has changed was the assist lever manufacturer.

I bring this up because I'm in the process of replacing my blue Sprinco spring with a BCM carbine spring and I'm also going to remove the TL lever. I will report back after the weekend, but I'm pretty sure my particular rifle doesn't like any add-on leversm, so they will be thrown in the junk box.

When I installed the TL lever I noticed that it seemed heavier duty / bulkier than the BAD.....go figure.....

Pretty much sounds like my problems, but I actually started with a well used carbine length buffer spring that worked *worse* than the blue Sprinco I put in as far as BAD + bolt lock went...

I am ready to give up on a BAD for this mid-length, but I might try a cut spring just for experimentation purposes, however even if that works I am loathe to leave it in.

Dennis.

[Cameron]

The spirit of my post is given the following "accepted changes" in the AR platform nowadays:

- Enhanced extractor springs
- Reduced power/extra power buffer, trigger, and magazine springs
- Heavier bolt carriers
- Carbine, H, H2, H3, Spikes, Pistol, A5, Rifle, and super heavy buffers
- Probably a whole lot more... Not even to mention what serious 1911 users go through to keep their gun running.

I don't know what it is but I just don't get these things at all.

I have 5 AR15s; 10.5"/14.5"/16"carbine/16"mid length/18" and all run with a BAD lever without any issues, with standard springs from their respective factories: Colt,LMT,DD,BCM.

Then I have 5 1911s 3"/4.25"/3x5" and I run all stock weight springs and all these weapons needed nothing from their factory configuration to run properly. Even the 5" 1911 A1 from 1943 runs perfectly...

Either I'm the luckiest ****er around, or people are just getting shit specs.

A correctly built AR is exactly like a correctly built 1911, 100% reliable over thousands and thousands of rounds.

Cameron

All my ARs with BAD Levers


1911s that actually run, with no modification...

[ssracer]

I'm running a 16", carbine length gas with H2 buffer and a BAD lever. I have yet to see it cause any issues even shooting primarily wolf. But it is a great help during malfunction drills and mag changes.

Like above, I have yet to have a single issue out of my 1911 either...and it's an RIA with a few kimber bits mixed in. Ran fine stock, runs fine now.

Guess I'm one of the lucky ones too

[jasonhgross]

IraqGunz got it right. Maybe this is what we call a clue. Get rid of the BAD lever. Problem solved right?