How to make a Kydex holster Picture Tutorial

[Rezarf2]

This is very important step: GIVE YOUR KYDEX A BATH!

You will want to get all the grit out of both sides of the holster. I use soap and water and scrub it down and dry it off to make sure there is no Kydex "dust" or particles anywhere as they are a sure fire way to scratch up your guns surface. And once the two halves are joined together it is hard to get in there to scrub it out. (unless you leave the muzzle end open).



Now it is time to set the rivets (I think the correct term is eyelet). I use an old school method with a hammer, punch and die. It is super simple to use, and even easier to mess up. Hit one time too many or too hard and the rivet will split everytime. It is simple physics... steel verses brass? Steel wins everytime!



Setting the die onto something like the anvil on your vice helps tremendously. Practice with a few scraps before boogering up your nice holster. I find several even light taps (checking every few) works great. Since I didn't mention it, the "mushroom" head of the rivet rests in the die, and you use the punch to roll over the top of the open rivet.

[Rezarf2]

Now you have a nearly finished holster. I like to roll the edges over like Raven does on their terrific holsters. This is how I do it on mine. I made a jig out of nylon block (most anything would work here, wood etc.) with a groove cut into it the exact width of the Kydex plus the rivets.



I then slide the jig over the rivets on one edge and use a heat gun to warm up the Kydex just to the point where I can feel the Kydex going into the plastic state. Then I pull the heat and begin to use the jig as a sort of clamp/handle to bend the side over to the desired shape. NOTE: TOO MUCH HEAT HERE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO START OVER. If you have done well to this point your holster will be stiff and it will be hard to insert and draw your gun... this is GOOD. If you heat the sides up too much to get this bend, you will loosen the mold around the slide/trigger guard and loose most if not all of your retention. Go slow, use low heat and you will be fine.



Another quick trip to the freezer will set the bend at your desired spot. Repeat on the other side. How much should you bend it? Well, I just hold the holster at my hip and eyeball it. Pretty scientific huh?



Here is what you will end up with! (hopefully without the split rivet... gotta' redo that one, whoops)

[Rezarf2]

I will add a few more pics and details of how to dial in the draw/retention and fit later. I will also post up a blip on how to make the belt loops.

For now here are a few more I have made.


Springfield LWT Champion Operator with Surefire x300



Springfield TRP Operator



Springfeild XDm 9mm

[MookNW]

Dang, great post.

[Keesh]

Excellent post, bookmarked for later. Thank you!

[Whootsinator]

Awesome tutorial, thanks for posting this.

[Hmac]

Very cool tutorial!

[Abraxas]

Excellent post, bookmarked for later. Thank you!

Agreed. Good stuff

[anto]

I will add a few more pics and details of how to dial in the draw/retention and fit later

Any update on this? Interested in finding out techniques for doing this.

Also, if anyone has any good tips on creating the channel for the mounted light?

[npmako]

I'm also curious how other people are adjusting retention.
I know that for me it seems like the ejection port seems to be a catching point.
Need to put up some pictures of my first holster try which we've been keeping around for fun. Pressed so tight that the trigger (not just guard) was fully molded. As well as every detail of the rail.