What do you put on barrel extensions?

[the AR-15 Junkie]

556cliff,
No grease, but rather clean and dry, on the rear of the flange and front face of the receiver. That has to help it resist any turning force.

This is something that Cliff556 has been preaching for years as I have read it many times in his posts and agree with both of you on this.

[556Cliff]

With the right kind of epoxy filler. The dented slot can be repaired. People patch up engine block with it. The good ones are very expensive. There are affordable options. PM me if you are interested.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Oh I know it can be repaired. There's a few different ways, cutting tiny shims out off soda cans is one way to deal with it. I never really cared for trying to repair them though. Luckily, I figured out my method with the fin topped Reaction Rod and clam shell vise blocks used together. With that set up I re-barreled that upper again last year and I could have removed the indexing pin if I wanted to.

[556Cliff]

This is something that Cliff556 has been preaching for years as I have read it many times in his posts and agree with both of you on this.

Someone has been paying attention.

[ViniVidivici]

I just use marine wheel bearing grease on the threads (because I have an abundance of it). For that matter I've used the stuff to lube ARs in general. In the words of a wise man, it makes 'em run like a raped ape.

I did use red loctite for "bedding" in the upper on the last build. I can't prove scientifically whether it makes the gun more accurate than it'd be otherwise, but I'd never tried it before, figured it couldn't hurt.

The gun IS accurate, I'm happy with it.

[JediGuy]

I also have a .308 version of the MI-URR (not pictured), but it's not compatible with AR10 receivers. I'm really not sure if there are any fin topped Reaction Rods that are.

I used a MI URR large version to assemble a 308 large frame upper (Aero M5 upper, Brownells/Faxon barrel). Perhaps I’m misunderstanding this…

[556Cliff]

I used a MI URR large version to assemble a 308 large frame upper (Aero M5 upper, Brownells/Faxon barrel). Perhaps I’m misunderstanding this…

Just went and looked up the .308 URR to see the description on Midwest Industries website... Looks like it does work with AR10 receivers, not sure why I was under the impression that it didn't.

Works with LR308 and AR10 308 barrels and receivers
Ultimate tool for barrel nut installs
Excellent for removing stubborn/seized barrel nuts without damaging upper
Designed for muzzle device installs and will not damage index pin
Can be used to install forward assist/port door cover
Compatible with forged and billet LR308 and AR10 upper receivers
Machined from 4140 Ordnance grade steel
Durable Black Oxide finished for years of use
Will not mar or damage exterior of upper receiver
Receiver mounted sights can be left installed
Can be installed horizontally or vertically in bench vise
100% Made in USA
*NOT COMPATIBLE WITH DPMS G2 308
ArmaLite® and AR10™ are trademarks of Armalite Inc

[Uncas47]

Yep, same upper, same barrel nut. I believe the nut was able to turn further do to the greased flange the second go around with the Reaction Rod.

I have a few fin topped Reaction Rods, I like them all, but the one from 2UniqueLLC is the one I prefer to use in tandem with the clamshell upper receiver vise blocks.


From top to bottom: Windham Weaponry Barreling Jig, Geissele Super Reaction Rod, MI-URR, 2UniqueLLC Barreling Spud.

Cliff, have you used the 2 Unique receiver extension wrench very much? The rigid one piece design really appeals to me, no breaker bar flopping around. Slipping off the castle nut is no bueno. I've been getting buy by sliding a waffle stock up against my wrench which helps a lot, but I may give that one a try. They have them on sale now.

[556Cliff]

Cliff, have you used the 2 Unique receiver extension wrench very much? The rigid one piece design really appeals to me, no breaker bar flopping around. Slipping off the castle nut is no bueno. I've been getting buy by sliding a waffle stock up against my wrench which helps a lot, but I may give that one a try. They have them on sale now.

Honestly I can't recommend the 2Unique stock wrench for a few reasons. First, I believe the heat treat on the one I have is bad. It actually started to deform against the aluminum wrench flats on a rifle receiver extension when I used it to remove one. Second, the castle nut portion of the wrench is really best suited for use in the tightening direction (clockwise) as it's a spanner type design. Third, there's no torque wrench slot so you just have to have a good feel for the torque specs when using it, which isn't really ideal. It may be possible that the heat treat issue is long past on current production versions.

I can highly recommend the 2Unique barrel wrenches and the barreling spud though.

For rifle receiver extensions nothing I've tried beats the Brownells stock wrench. And for castle nuts nothing beats the Tango Down castle nut wrench. Both pictured to the left of the 2Unique stock wrench.

[the AR-15 Junkie]

Honestly I can't recommend the 2Unique stock wrench for a few reasons. First, I believe the heat treat on the one I have is bad. It actually started to deform against the aluminum wrench flats on a rifle receiver extension when I used it to remove one. Second, the castle nut portion of the wrench is really best suited for use in the tightening direction (clockwise) as it's a spanner type design. Third, there's no torque wrench slot so you just have to have a good feel for the torque specs when using it, which isn't really ideal. It may be possible that the heat treat issue is long past on current production versions.

I can highly recommend the 2Unique barrel wrenches and the barreling spud though.

For rifle receiver extensions nothing I've tried beats the Brownells stock wrench. And for castle nuts nothing beats the Tango Down castle nut wrench. Both pictured to the left of the 2Unique stock wrench.

I think I have tried just about every tool for these tasks and these are the very best options.

Cliff I will give you $300 for that Windham jig lol! The bidding starts at $300.00

[556Cliff]

I think I have tried just about every tool for these tasks and these are the very best options.

Cliff I will give you $300 for that Windham jig lol! The bidding starts at $300.00

Oh no, lol. That's one of the centerpieces of my collection. It was $350 new, but I'm never giving that one up. It's right up there with my Big Green Jig












Pay no mind to the Wheeler screwdriver set.