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Thread: Why rattle can paint instead of Duracoat, et al.?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    Cerakote, if done properly and using the correct spray gun, doesn't add that much at all. The target for the elite series I use is 1/2 Mil or .0005' which is less than the tolerance of most parts of the AR. Factor in the media blasting you are doing to create an adherence surface to the part and its probably overall less than even that measurement.

    I've never used Duracoat, so can't speak to that one.
    Duracoat goes on thick and requires a fair amount of attention to not build up internals too much.

    The thickness(and not requiring heat to cure) makes it really good for polymer stocks though.
    Last edited by jsbhike; 11-19-23 at 18:12.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Disciple View Post
    Did you skip a prescribed thermal cure?
    What ever I used did not require any thermal cure in the instructions.

    Once cured it was in fact very durable. I did a four color camo scheme. So some of it was very thick, idk if that was part of the issue?

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by TMS951 View Post
    What ever I used did not require any thermal cure in the instructions.

    Once cured it was in fact very durable. I did a four color camo scheme. So some of it was very thick, idk if that was part of the issue?
    Aervoe? It seems very sensitive to humidity to me.

    Alumahyde seems slightly less sensitive.

  4. #34
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    Aervoe rings a bell, it’s pretty humid where I am so sounds about right.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteyrAUG View Post
    I think that's the other attraction to rattle can. Most of us can't throw our rifles in the oven and stay married.
    A design for an inexpensive curing oven: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8vXdWEFz2Q8&t=604s
    "We must all hang together, or, most assuredly, we shall all hang separately."

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    Cerakote, if done properly and using the correct spray gun, doesn't add that much at all. The target for the elite series I use is 1/2 Mil or .0005' which is less than the tolerance of most parts of the AR. Factor in the media blasting you are doing to create an adherence surface to the part and its probably overall less than even that measurement.

    I've never used Duracoat, so can't speak to that one.
    If I'm not mistaken, Duracoat is easier to apply. They even have the rattle can version of it.

  7. #37
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    Duracoat aerosol paint = $70 per can

    Hardware store aerosol paint = $5 per can

    It shouldn't take a genius to see why one is chosen over the other.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Inkslinger View Post
    Because spray paint is cheap, easy, and effective.
    First post nailed it.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by docsherm View Post
    And to add to that..... the more it wears down the more effective the camo is.
    This. As some black bleeds through, it improves the camo and matches natural surroundings better.
    "What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by lysander View Post
    Duracoat aerosol paint = $70 per can

    Hardware store aerosol paint = $5 per can

    It shouldn't take a genius to see why one is chosen over the other.
    Yes, duracoat is pretty easy to spray. You can get it with a Preval spray kit, works pretty much like an aerosol can. It surely does cost more, but IMO it is significantly more durable than spray paint, not surprisingly.
    ETC (SW/AW), USN (1998-2008)
    CVN-65, USS Enterprise

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