I wouldn't do any lighter springs in a 442. They need all the spring they can get.
I have two 442-2s without the lock and the triggers in them are perfectly fine for a boot gun.
I wouldn't do any lighter springs in a 442. They need all the spring they can get.
I have two 442-2s without the lock and the triggers in them are perfectly fine for a boot gun.
Agreed. If I was going to get a trigger job I would go with a real pro like Sokol who really just smooths things up a bit. But these days I am running a standard no-lock 442 and it is all you need. Stay factory.
Let those who are fond of blaming and finding fault, while they sit safely at home, ask, ‘Why did you not do thus and so?’I wish they were on this voyage; I well believe that another voyage of a different kind awaits them.”
Christopher Columbus
Both my 442 No Lock and 340 have been flawless with Apex kits from the beginning.
I've handled two of the performance center revolvers, and they are nice. Others have given the better route: get a no lock. If your new purchase has an ok action, then it will smooth out to become a very good action. Smith has got it down good with their J frames. I suggest that you buy a new one because of warranty in later years. I have one J frame with a lock. It shoots great. But, every time I pick it up, I wish that it didn't have all the junk inside. I've been shooting J's for about 40 years, have several, and wish that I had a couple more. Apex stuff is excellent. My advice, though. is don't fix it if it ain't broke. Why? J frame actions are easily compromised when "monkeyed" with. Sometimes drop in parts require fitting.
Yep leave it stock and get a no-lock. great protection 24/7!!
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