I use Safariland hoods. I havent found anything I like better. Bad news is you can only get them used. SL wont sell the them individually. Just do a little more blocking on the back side for the mechanism, and mount. For the RTI and hood my block outs are about 1/4 thick. Make sure you leave clearance for the RTI wheel .
I use alot of the SL duty drops also.
Here are a few for reference.
Beretta 92 w/ APL
G17(ithink) w/ X300
Glock 19/ tlr3
M&P wx300i (this one was re done before sending, d/t cutting the trigger guard way to open.)
G19 tlr1hl
(this was the old block that I used for the hood, I have since cut the actual shape to prevent it from bending in)
G19
back side G19 tlr1
M&P TLR1
GEDC1097.jpgIMG_0901.jpgGEDC1093.jpg
This was my latest kydex adventure, for a buddy
Haven't seen anyone else doing them in this method. Most with both adjustments have a 3rd hole for the retention adjustment. I didn't like that it, caused me not to be able to make a good angled cut for comfort, and on small framed pistols there just simply isn't enough room for the 3rd hole.
AIWB with soft loop and strut. Is adjustable for retention as well as ride height.
_MG_5660 by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr
AIWB with a hard loop. Also with adjustable ride height and retention.
_MG_5648 by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr
also wrapped the black M&P holster in my previous posting.
_MG_5523 by 4DAIVIPAI2K5, on Flickr
Last edited by 4DAIVI PAI2K5; 05-16-14 at 13:11.
Those look very nice.
Thanks if you were referring to mine.
Yes... actually many of them look nice but I was specifically speaking of those IWB models.
Well thanks again.
No problem.... let me ask you guys something.... I've wanted to try my hand at some of this and would have no issue with a knife or full metal object.... but how concerned are you guys about actually deforming your pistol or other non-metal objects. Or do you simply only use blue guns?
I use both. Mostly blue guns but my m&p had been molded a bunch with out issues. I do leave the mag in when molding real guns
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