DavePAL84,
As someone who is VERY new to the AR platform, thank you for this post. I printed it and will re-read it in "the office". Also started a small log book.
DavePAL84,
As someone who is VERY new to the AR platform, thank you for this post. I printed it and will re-read it in "the office". Also started a small log book.
Great post... Makes me smile. I've been doing all of this EXCEPT for the drops of oil into the BCG holes for the rings. I'll add that step. Never saw that ring test (Extended bolt on face).
Thanks!
Jeff
Thanks for the no BS lesson. I like that you dispelled many commonly held myths.
US Army Military Police 97-03
Federal LEO/M.R.T. 05-Present
NRA Life Member
"There is no hunting like the hunting of man, and those who have hunted armed men long enough and liked it, never care for anything else thereafter."
-E. Hemingway
"I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the blanket of the very freedom that I provide, then questions the manner in which I provide it."
-Jack Nicholson (A Few Good Men, 1992)
This is completely against my experience--wet weapons get muddy and jam quickly.For a long time, the military advocated (and unfortunately in some units still does (institutional inertia is strong)) using less lubricant in the desert. The idea was that more lubricant attracts sand and/or other environmental fouling. This is one of those ideas that holds its roots in theory than actual practice. A wet, dirty weapon will always run better and longer than a dry, dirty weapon.
There seem to be two functional extremes and no happy medium. Either:
Run dry or with dry lube--the DI gas system blows sand out (and into your teeth, but you can spit), and save oil for repair if you have problems (I didn't).
OR, lube the everloving hell out of it until it drips. It will run well, spit oil, and flush sand out in the process. It'll be dripping on you.
In between is lubed, and muddy.
Also remember that a dry weapon MAY get dusty. A wet weapon WILL get muddy.
This also depends on which desert you're in, the humidity level (God help you, humid not only feels bad, the sand forms concrete), and the number and quality of sandstorms you're in.
Funny as hell aside: I have video from last week at KCR of five guys with ARs blazing away, while an AK goes BANG click BANG click click BANG click.
There's any number of folk on here who would rather have a wet, dirty weapon than a dry, dirty weapon, Michael.
I suppose if you want to split hairs, actual mud is worse than dirt. But carbon and grit mixed with a lubricant is not the same as actual mud in my book.
Looks good. However any lube on the bolt tail is blown out on the first shot so... other than corrosion protection between shoots, the lube isn't there during operation.
"What would a $2,000 Geissele Super Duty do that a $500 PSA door buster on Black Friday couldn't do?" - Stopsign32v
Middle Eastern "Sand" is fine clay. It gets into everything, and I've seen stuff with 10 year service life burn out in 18 months.
A certain amount of dust gets into everything. When it does, cleaning is necessary. (This includes through covers with torqued on plates and rubber gaskets. It gets into EVERYTHING.)
Dry or no lube means just dust. Light lube means lube mixed with dust = mud. Heavy lube means mud drips out with the lube.
If you read what I said, I didn't contradict heavy lube. It works, though it's messy.
Dust gets blown out. Mud does not. Mud can be washed out with enough lube.
In my experience, it's an all or nothing proposition. If you're lubing in the desert, lube heavy.
Your personal experience is trumped by the experiences of tens of thousands of competent American Soldiers & Marines who have been fighting in the desert for only, say, the last decade or so...
Dave Merrill
Terrible Technical Writer. Awful Photographer. Lazy Instructor. Kind of a dick.
Loves Tacos.
Great post OP, thanks for taking the time.
Straight out of basic training 101. Good job!
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