Battle Comp muzzle brake

[bkb0000]

The V1.5 will make it a bit easier being pre-drilled. Then its up to my friend welding it, or me sending it out to ADCO.

My friend is a master welder building race car chasis, but I am having some second thoughts having him weld a muzzle device. What is the story of a muzzle/barrel device warping from the welding heat?

Im scared to death to ruin a $465 bbl and a $150 comp lol

the kind of weld you'll be doing with the muzzle device is totally different than car chassis welding.. it's TIG welding, which is a very small, very isolated surface weld. the metal at the surface of the mate pieces is pooled for about 1-1.5 second, and it's done.

[Zeus]

If you are going to send it out anyway, just get a 1.0 and have it pinned. No reason to add any extra length/weight to an already long/ heavy barrel. Besides, most places would probably charge the same to do the job as the only benefit would be JUST the comp being pre-drilled.

[decodeddiesel]

The V1.5 will make it a bit easier being pre-drilled. Then its up to my friend welding it, or me sending it out to ADCO.

My friend is a master welder building race car chasis, but I am having some second thoughts having him weld a muzzle device. What is the story of a muzzle/barrel device warping from the welding heat?

Im scared to death to ruin a $465 bbl and a $150 comp lol

DO NOT LET YOUR FRIEND WELD THIS UNLESS YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU AND HE KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!!

If he tries to draw a bead all the way around the muzzle device then yes he will absolutely ruin the barrel.

All you are doing is drilling through the muzzle device (already done on the BC) threading it onto the barrel, and torquing to spec, then just barely drilling through the hole and into the threads...I emphasize just barely as it is damn easy to drill all the way through the threads and into the bore which will ruin the barrel.

You then make a pin that is the same diameter as the holes, fit it so it is the same depth as the over all hole, and spot weld over the top of it. It's really quite easy and anyone with a rudimentary knowledge of welding should be able to do it.

the kind of weld you'll be doing with the muzzle device is totally different than car chassis welding.. it's TIG welding, which is a very small, very isolated surface weld. the metal at the surface of the mate pieces is pooled for about 1-1.5 second, and it's done.

I have used a MIG welder for this as well as a TIG and it worked just fine. You are right though, it is a 1-1.5 second weld.

[simple1]

If memory serves me correctly, the pinning can also be done through high temp silver soldering which is a lower temp process.

Unless I am mistaken, silver solder can be used on the threads but not as a substitute for welding the blind pin.

From the ATF pub:
"Permanent methods of attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver
soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over."

[Alex V]

DO NOT LET YOUR FRIEND WELD THIS UNLESS YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU AND HE KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING!!!

If he tries to draw a bead all the way around the muzzle device then yes he will absolutely ruin the barrel.

All you are doing is drilling through the muzzle device (already done on the BC) threading it onto the barrel, and torquing to spec, then just barely drilling through the hole and into the threads...I emphasize just barely as it is damn easy to drill all the way through the threads and into the bore which will ruin the barrel.

You then make a pin that is the same diameter as the holes, fit it so it is the same depth as the over all hole, and spot weld over the top of it. It's really quite easy and anyone with a rudimentary knowledge of welding should be able to do it.



I have used a MIG welder for this as well as a TIG and it worked just fine. You are right though, it is a 1-1.5 second weld.

That was the plan, just a small spot weld over the top of the pin. No one ever intended to weld all around the bbl.

the kind of weld you'll be doing with the muzzle device is totally different than car chassis welding.. it's TIG welding, which is a very small, very isolated surface weld. the metal at the surface of the mate pieces is pooled for about 1-1.5 second, and it's done.

The roll cage in my car was Tig'ed, nit Mig'ed. The only time I have seen a Mig welder used on my car is to spot weld connections in the exhaust, or weld on subframe connectors. The cage was completly Tig welded.

Thanks for the concern gentlement!

[bkb0000]

Unless I am mistaken, silver solder can be used on the threads but not as a substitute for welding the blind pin.

From the ATF pub:
"Permanent methods of attachment include full-fusion gas or electric steel-seam welding, high-temperature (1100°F) silver
soldering, or blind pinning with the pin head welded over."

it's an approved option. the reason being that it's high-temp- much higher than you'll ever get the muzzle while shooting.

which can, and does, affect the steel. its actually really elementary metallurgy, but i've not bothered to research it, so i can't really offer any great detail... but any time you bring steel to glowing red hot (the forgers color chart lists steel as "blood red" at 1200 degree), you're allowing it to absorb carbon, changing the temper, changing grain tension, etc... so this is really probably the least advisable method. people do it, and i haven't ever seen where anybody has attributed "problems" to over-heading their muzzle, but there it is.

[decodeddiesel]

That was the plan, just a small spot weld over the top of the pin. No one ever intended to weld all around the bbl.

Oh ok, good deal. I apologize if I insulted your knowledge, but I have seen people try to draw a bead all the way around a muzzle device before and completely trash a barrel. Didn't want you make the same mistake.

Anyway, can't wait to see pics of the BC 1.5!

[Alex V]

Oh ok, good deal. I apologize if I insulted your knowledge, but I have seen people try to draw a bead all the way around a muzzle device before and completely trash a barrel. Didn't want you make the same mistake.

Anyway, can't wait to see pics of the BC 1.5!

Not insulted in the least, and very appreciative of the advice.

I just saw how the brake was pinned on my NJ legal BM 14.5" and figured I'd do the same, which seams to be the industry standard.

A person I know, would not believe me that the small circle on his rifle's brake was the pin welded over, ground down, and re-blued. So he had one of his buddies put a spot weld over the bbl/washer/brake. I could not stop laughing when I saw it. Telling him that the blemish on his brake was already a welded pin was like talking to a wall. Despite buying the rifle in a NJ Sporting goods store, he insisted it was not pinned and was illegal in NJ. LOL

My hands are itching, and my CC keeps jumping out of the wallet waiting for the BC 1.5 lol

[DownRange58]

Alan,

Again thanks for the info! Do I need to buy a particular type of 18" barrel to put the BC on for California? I believe it needs to be permanently installed for Ca. laws? If so, can it be permanently installed on most barrels? Thanks!

[PRGGodfather]

California does NOT require pinning of compensators on barrels of 16" or greater. As the BattleComp is a CA legal compensator, simple installation on your barrel is all that is required.

On 14.5" barrels, pinning and welding is required to meet the 16" OAL requirement, as it is the government's intent to make that barrel into a one-piece barrel with 16" OAL, versus a two-part system.

If you already have a >16" barrel, pinning is unnecessary. The only thing we ask is that your barrel be threaded with 1/2 x 28 RH threads.

Thanks!
Alan