Help! - Oly crash & burn... :0(

[M4Fundi]

Just realized Oly is Olympic Arms...I kept trying to figure out where the Oly (Oly= Norwegian from Montana) fit in to the problem

[ST911]

Just realized Oly is Olympic Arms...I kept trying to figure out where the Oly (Oly= Norwegian from Montana) fit in to the problem

Ole, Lena's husband.

[C4IGrant]

Granted, but seeing as how the OP is willing to roll with the punches, do you have a "Gunsmith Kinks" version of help. I'll bet that although the OPs rifle is "Sub-Par", it is most likely fixable and he came here looking for nothing else, knowing that he would be flamed. So, can we get a new forum for the "Non-Teir one rifles" Likely, in time these folks will upgrade to higher end weapons by staying on this forum, as opposed to scareing them away. It has been obvious lately that some folks enjoy shooting,...Is it not our duty to attempt to educate them? We should atleast make every effort. Well, there's my two cents. He still did not tell us whether or not he attempted to remove the "Hinge-Pin" on the front of the reciever.

https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=39614



C4

[C4IGrant]

Next time I have a problem with one of my teir one rifles, I am going to say that it was an RRA,DPMS,OLY,ETC; Most likely will never happen, but if I do have a critical malfunction on one of my good rifles, I'll pretend that it happened to one of my "Lower-teir" weapons. You wil all flame me, likely I would flame me too. But Surprise,Surprise,Surprise.......Lo and Behold, a legitimate failure in a (Insert name of Tier One manufacturer here) That should keep us on our toes for a bit.
P.S. If this post is offensive to anyone, please kindly delete it. I am not trying to start anything, I just want to keep the new folks interested in fixing or hopefully upgradeing their AR. If I wanted to be a dick I'de have stayed in Iraq.
And yes, I agree, Olympic should just call it quits.
Hey Doogie,Get rid of the thing, It is quite likely worth something toward a trade in.

Every and ANY AR can malfunction. That really isn't what we are talking about though.

The two most logical reason for the OP's problem is a blown primer or his buffer retainer has come out and is lodged somewhere.

The usual reason for a blown primer is because the chamber is too tight and the case could not expand. Having reamed a few too many Oly barrels, I can tell you that they generally DO NOT use a TRUE 556 NATO chamber (no matter what it says on the barrel).

If the buffer retainer came out, then that usually means that the castle nut was not staked and the RE moved around until the buffer retainer released into the weapon.


C4

[Doogie]

A couple things: 1) Thank you ALL!!! I ghosted these forums for a couple weeks before jumping in; looking at other sites, I found there is very little wisdom of this quality out there, so I joined up - fully aware what the opinions of my "non-Tier 1" piece were (*laughing!*) 2) The OA was a purchase based on a first-time buyer/price point/lack of proper research-type sceanrio. C'est la vie, no? Anyway, after I pull both pins this a.m. and/or otherwise fix the problem - away it goes. (tho I WILL take my T-1 w/ me..!)

Being what I consider a relatively smart guy, there will be none of this, "...but this is my first baby...and I can fix her and make her happenin'!"-type of crap. When one's confidence in a (home AND work ) defensive weapons system is destroyed, I feel it should be treated as a lame horse.

Will advise on the outcome, and...thanks again, everybody.

[Doogie]

Okay, here's where I am: After removing both pins, the upper and lower still refused to separate. The front (pivot pin) end of the lower would drop about 3/4" - and not budge. After some..."judicious manipulation"...and a spectacular left-handed catch of the buffer tube assembly worthy of a YouTube moment, we have separation.

Upon examination, this piece (001) was found down in the trigger assembly, locking it up. It looks as though it may have come from the area between the end of the buffer tube itself and the rear take-down pin (002). Is this the buffer retainer pin?? The BCG required a nominal amount of pressure to get it to break free (almost as if it was "stuck" ) and slide out, but it did. The casing was found in the fired position but also required physical removal. The casing itself (003) looks normal; the primer still seated after the strike.

Thoughts???

Doogie

http://s693.photobucket.com/albums/v...Tuesday001.jpg

http://s693.photobucket.com/albums/v...Tuesday005.jpg

http://s693.photobucket.com/albums/v...Tuesday002.jpg

[Byron]

Yes, that is the buffer retaining pin. Your castle nut is on backwards: did you do that or did it come that way? It is also not staked (as suspected by earlier posters). The receiver extension must have just been on the edge of holding down the retaining pin before you went shooting. It presumably backed off enough to allow the retaining pin to spring loose and really screw up your gun.

Here's an image of what the buffer retaining pin should look like when the weapon has been properly assembled:
http://stickman.rainierarms.com/gall...VO%20Stick.jpg

[decodeddiesel]

There should be a small spring (the buffer retaining detent spring) floating around in there as well...

[CaptainDooley]

I'll have to remember this thread the next time someone on another forum advocates lock-tite'ing a castle nut or says that it's not necessary to stake it...

[spamsammich]

Yeah, that receiver extension needs an extra full turn to properly capture that retaining pin. I would not be surprised if the castle nut came like that. One of the tables at our local gun show is always chock full of Oly goodness and at least half of those complete guns had backwards castle nuts. It wouldn't be so bad if it was just 1 among a bunch of guns, but half of them tells me that whoever built those rifles is just phoning it in and doesn't give a shit. This is why, despite my efforts to support the local economy as much as reasonable, I would not piss on Oly if that joint were on fire (again).