here is my MS2 style sling;
it's 1 point only since I dint have a HK hook at the moment but I'm going to fix it asap
the sling was made using an old parachute harness
there was a really nice QD hook but it's way too big
here is my MS2 style sling;
it's 1 point only since I dint have a HK hook at the moment but I'm going to fix it asap
the sling was made using an old parachute harness
there was a really nice QD hook but it's way too big
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This is a good point. I recently started messing around with the MS2 and I couldn't figure out why I liked it so much less than the last time I used a single-point. Then I remembered that was on a 10.5" built for weight. Huge difference.
Great experiment you've got going here. I'm a big fan of my VTAC quick-adjust sling, but I agree side-to-side transitions are a weakness. Looking forward to seeing your results!
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Getting very close to a finalized version I think.
1) A lot of these 1-to-2-point slings have a D ring attached to the webbing that allows the ring to flop around back and forth. Examples of this abound, but one such is the Emdom Gunslinger Sling. I walk our dog 4 times a day, and her collar has a D-ring on it that flops back and forth and is a bitch to get the lead clipped to. That's not something I want in a sling. This is why for my version of this sling I keep going back to having the ring in-line with the sling webbing. Having the sling under tension means that the ring stays put and makes for an easier target when clipping on one handed. A friend was nice enough to hook me up with some short leads with the QD pushbutton on one end and the 1" D ring on the other. I then attached the sling to this D-ring.
This gives me an easy target under tension to hit with the HK snap hook when going back to the 1-point configuration.
I have another member here that stepped up and agreed to make me up a short lead like above but with a 1.5" steel ring and I'll be able to see if I like the larger target of that ring better or not. The obvious tradeoff is that every time that ring grows, the rifle hangs lower in 1-point mode, which I dislike. My goal here is to make the gun hang like it does with a Wilderness single-point which is my default one-point sling that I use. Since it is more of an "O" design and not a "P" or a "Q" (think about it, you'll understand what I mean) the Wilderness is a single point that holds the rifle nice and high on the body.
2) The other half of the equation is where the sling attaches at the front. I found this HK-style loop from Mesa Tactical that is intended for use on their shotgun stocks but which worked out great for the slot on the MOE handguard. At first I installed it entirely in the slot, with the screws on top. Way too far forward, and way too low. Perhaps on longer handguards this setup would work but on the carbine-length handguards it was a no go. So I flipped it over, and drilled another hole as far back as I could, and wound up with this configuration.
This gives me an easy fixed target to hit with the snap hook when I want to go to two-point, and it is the proper orientation for an HK snap hook. If it was vertical it would make the sling lie perpendicular to the gun which causes tangling. I know this from trying to adapt slings to the AK. Note how the sling lies flat.
end result is carbine with sling in one-point configuration
and in two-point configuration
Last edited by rob_s; 10-14-09 at 09:16.
Downsides are that the Mesa unit protrudes further than it needs to, the hole is smaller than it should be, and the edges are very sharp. I'm thinking of cutting another slot in the handguard and mounting the unit from the inside to minimize the protrusion, and I'll be using a Dremel to make the hole bigger and round the edges.
I would also like to sew the HK hook in place in the front instead of having the plastic slider there holding it on. I got some thread, and I'm going to see if I can't break the sewing machine trying to stitch it into place.
I've run this setup now in two matches, and have a drills night tomorrow night where I'm constantly changing back and forth. So far no real issues, works just as well with gloves or without, etc.
Rob is there anyway you can mount the MESA adaptor from inside the handguard - it would make the portrusion smaller -- put it out thru the slot and drill two holes and rivet/epoxy the adaptor in.
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Where did you get that non heavy duty QD sling swivel that is parkerized that is attached to your DD backplate? I've been looking for the non heavy duty ones that are gray and can't find them.
"Not every thing on Earth requires an aftermarket upgrade." demigod/markm
That's what I'm going to do, but I'm going to cut a new slot so that it winds up high like it is now. If I just stick it through the existing slot it will still interfere with my support hand a bit. Either way there's cutting/drilling involved; drilling if I put the tab through the slot, cutting if I put the screws through the slot and cut a new slot for the tab.
I'm going to use a drill to make two pilot holes on either end of the slot, and then use the dremel to cut the slot between them.
It came on the lead that my friend made for me. Looks like the swivels are available here
http://blueforcegear.com/product.cfm...=5&prod_id=107
Last edited by rob_s; 10-14-09 at 09:16.
I like that a lot!!
Rob I had the ASAP and MS2 and didnt really care for it to much. Like you I had a hard time adjusting it and didnt like the material. So trying to copy your idea I came away with this, on accident but so far it has alot that I like.
I like using the QD because theres nothing in the way when not in use. I can transition from shoulder to shoulder the same way as I did with the MS2 and go from one to two point in a decent manner. Of course the 99 cent carabener is not going to stand up to hard use but so far its doing good.
Last edited by sapper36; 08-31-09 at 14:58.
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