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Thread: Castle nut staking, why the big deal?

  1. #21
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    Fortunately those companies that don't do it are NFE in my book for a variety of other reasons. Makes it easy.

    I don't not buy cars with the word "Hyundai" written on the trunk simply because of the writing, but all the other criteria I use to purchase cars ensures that I never wind up with one that does.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by trunkmonkey View Post
    Personally I'm tired of hearing about both staking gas carriers and castle nuts.
    Me too! Let's get another AR Lube thread going!

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by yugo308guy View Post
    I fully understand why someone would want the nut staked, it obviously makes sense. The question is, why is it so important when so many people take it off to replace the stock, or put in a sling attachment point? Do these same people restake it when they finish? Can you even restake it after putting in a sling attachment point? It just does not make sense to me to use that particular feature as an indicator of the quality of manufacture when it seems to be a commonly removed part.

    A related question, does the nut and/or tube need to be removed to replace the stock with a UBR or the M93B?

    Yes, you restake the castle nut after you change out the RE or RP.

    Why it is an indicator of quality is because the following reasons:

    1. The manufacturer is following the TDP
    2. The manufacturer took the time to make the weapon more reliable

    If the manufacturer cannot take the 5 seconds to stake the castle nut, what else didn't they "have time for?"


    C4

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saginaw79 View Post
    Because if XXXX or XXX does it obviously everyone else should too...

    I think people get too wrapped up in it myself. I have a (oh no close your eyes) Bushmaster and I added a VLTOR Mod stock and tube and didnt stake anything, years and thousands of rounds and many classes later I've had zero issue

    Proper torque is an amazing thing!
    No not really. You do it because shit vibrates apart ALL THE TIME and staking it is what might keep it from coming apart.

    It is no different than changing the oil in your car. Your car will run for many more miles than 3K, but you are not doing yourself any favors. By not staking the castle nut, you are increasing the chance of it coming loose and causing a malfunction.

    Every dog has his day. Your gun might run for 3k and never have an issue, but on the 3,999th round, it comes loose. Seems kind of silly to me to not just make sure it doesn't.


    C4

  5. #25
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    What's the correct torque spec for the castle nut before staking it? And does it matter if the 'notches' do not end up at the 2 and 10 o'clock positions?

    And is this the type of punch you use?
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=621

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob_s View Post
    Fortunately those companies that don't do it are NFE in my book for a variety of other reasons. Makes it easy.

    I don't not buy cars with the word "Hyundai" written on the trunk simply because of the writing, but all the other criteria I use to purchase cars ensures that I never wind up with one that does.
    My new KAC SR-15E3 did not have the castle nut staked... What do you think of that?

    Spooky

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96GTS View Post
    What's the correct torque spec for the castle nut before staking it? And does it matter if the 'notches' do not end up at the 2 and 10 o'clock positions?

    And is this the type of punch you use?
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=621
    That looks exactly like the one I used on my Stag AR. Works good.
    Last edited by QuickStrike; 01-20-09 at 23:42.

  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96GTS View Post
    What's the correct torque spec for the castle nut before staking it? And does it matter if the 'notches' do not end up at the 2 and 10 o'clock positions?

    And is this the type of punch you use?
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=621
    Notches end up where they end up, doesn't matter at all. I just snug my castle nut by feel and stake it well in two places. I don't recall the spec.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spooky130 View Post
    My new KAC SR-15E3 did not have the castle nut staked... What do you think of that?

    Spooky
    I think it must have been an anomaly. The one I had was staked.

    Don't confuse "my single sample didn't have XYZ" (or does have it, for that matter, even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once in a while) with an entire product line, or manufacturing line, that simply just refuses to do something.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 96GTS View Post
    What's the correct torque spec for the castle nut before staking it? And does it matter if the 'notches' do not end up at the 2 and 10 o'clock positions?
    I'll have to dig out my manual for the torque spec, but the nut is designed so that you'll almost always have at least two places that you can stake. The location of said slots doesn't matter as long at you can get to them.

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