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Thread: Why rattle can paint instead of Duracoat, et al.?

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by indianalex01 View Post
    That’s how much you know.. Them boys in Quantico aren’t in line units who actually do it. You trying to be cool talk like you know and got exposed.. The phony tough posers always lurking.. Don’t do it here. To many who have actually been in line units will call you out.
    No disrespect meant!
    Last edited by Uncas47; 11-18-23 at 18:56.

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    Rattle canned one of my rifles earlier this year. Just picked out some greens and browns and tans that I liked at the hardware store. Used some local foliage as templates. Turned out great. Was fun, cheap, and easy.

    Did some mags too, cut out some digital camo patters in heavy paper to use as stencils for those.
    Last edited by kirkland; 11-18-23 at 18:30.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncas47 View Post
    No disrespect meant!
    Ok cool. I deleted my post.
    Hunter of Gunmen 8541

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    Cerakote and Duracoat also add substantial thickness compared to rattle canning

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    Quote Originally Posted by titsonritz View Post
    Cerakote and Duracoat also add substantial thickness compared to rattle canning
    Cerakote, if done properly and using the correct spray gun, doesn't add that much at all. The target for the elite series I use is 1/2 Mil or .0005' which is less than the tolerance of most parts of the AR. Factor in the media blasting you are doing to create an adherence surface to the part and its probably overall less than even that measurement.

    I've never used Duracoat, so can't speak to that one.
    Last edited by HKGuns; 11-19-23 at 08:41.

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    I duracoated one AR, and have one in a bronze anodize (Colt) and the other a desert dirt (Geissele). Other than that, most of mine are just standard black anodize. I have a few colors of rattle can in case I ever paint one, just have never had the need nor desire.
    ETC (SW/AW), USN (1998-2008)
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    Cerakote, if done properly and using the correct spray gun, doesn't add that much at all. The target for the elite series I use is 1/2 Mil or .0005' which is less than the tolerance of most parts of the AR. Factor in the media blasting you are doing to create an adherence surface to the part and its probably overall less than even that measurement.

    I've never used Duracoat, so can't speak to that one.
    Duracoat goes on thick and requires a fair amount of attention to not build up internals too much.

    The thickness(and not requiring heat to cure) makes it really good for polymer stocks though.
    Last edited by jsbhike; 11-19-23 at 18:12.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HKGuns View Post
    Cerakote, if done properly and using the correct spray gun, doesn't add that much at all. The target for the elite series I use is 1/2 Mil or .0005' which is less than the tolerance of most parts of the AR. Factor in the media blasting you are doing to create an adherence surface to the part and its probably overall less than even that measurement.

    I've never used Duracoat, so can't speak to that one.
    If I'm not mistaken, Duracoat is easier to apply. They even have the rattle can version of it.

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    Duracoat aerosol paint = $70 per can

    Hardware store aerosol paint = $5 per can

    It shouldn't take a genius to see why one is chosen over the other.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by lysander View Post
    Duracoat aerosol paint = $70 per can

    Hardware store aerosol paint = $5 per can

    It shouldn't take a genius to see why one is chosen over the other.
    Yes, duracoat is pretty easy to spray. You can get it with a Preval spray kit, works pretty much like an aerosol can. It surely does cost more, but IMO it is significantly more durable than spray paint, not surprisingly.
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