TLR-1
69132 remote switch and remote switch battery door
Tango Down Scar panel for surefire pressure pad slightly modded
XTM panels covering wire chase
TLR-1
69132 remote switch and remote switch battery door
Tango Down Scar panel for surefire pressure pad slightly modded
XTM panels covering wire chase
30 caliber junkie.
God Bless America.
Surefire X300 on Noveske Switchblock rail.
[Thread Hijack, Sorry!]
Hey kdcgrohl, dude I LOVE your setup and your gun! Looks outstanding!
I am possibly considering getting that same 10.5" Noveske upper with that Switchblock and rail setup. Just wanna know if you've ever had any issues at all with the hot switchblock gas block burning your hands or fingers? Do you think it would force me to use a different grip than the "beer can grip" I currently use, where I grab a hold of the rail as far forward as possible and wrap my thumb around the top rail?
Here's a video to see exactly what I'm talking about. I don't always use this grip, it just depends on the gun. But with really short and light guns like the one I'm shooting in this video and yours, I use this grip as much as I can unless I get very fatigued after doing it for hours at a carbine course, then I'll change my shit up a little and bring my support hand back.
Mk18 Shooting Grip Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNOJV0nE3M0
You think I'd be good to go if I bought your same upper? I just REALLY want that switchblock to use when I shoot it suppressed, because 10.5's already have so much back pressure and even more so when shooting suppressed. So having that switchblock would be awesome!
S/F
Paul
Last edited by Gutshot John; 03-06-11 at 10:12.
It is bad policy to fear the resentment of an enemy. -Ethan Allen
Serving as a LEO since 1999.
USPSA# A56876 A Class
Firearms Instructor
Armorer for AR15, 1911, Glocks and Remington 870 shotguns.
I also have the IWC mount, here's a link to my initial impressions of it.
Surefire 6P LED in a Vltor offset mount.
Scoby
Since getting beat up a little by a few guys here for my last set of pics for this rifle, I finally got my hands on the SF gear I was looking for. It's not nearly as easy to build up a rifle here in Canada as it is for you lucky bastards down south, but I think I did OK for what I have available.
H&K MR223
Elcan Spectre DR
SF X300 w/ SR07 pressure switch
Now I'm just waiting on my Magpul AFG to finish it off.
Thanks to the guys who gave me the good advice on the lights and grips.
Never get out of the boat. Absolutely goddamn right. Unless you were goin' all the way.
Ok, so excuse my potential naivety, but I wanted to know why it is that most (if not all) flashlight manufacturers making lights specifically for weapon mounted usage make them compatible with CR123A batteries? Are more common and cheaper batteries such as AAA batts less durable, or is it just because surefire only uses CR123A's, so other makers followed suit? I'm looking at getting a Fenix light* of some sort, and while I'm willing to go with CR123A's if I have to, I do want to know why this would be the best choice.
I know this is WAY of thread topic, but with all of the light and gun fanatics on here it may also be the best place to ask.
*No I'm not staking my life on a Chinese product because frankly I don't stake my life on any product. Stuff fails. Period. Learn to live and fight without it. Only rely on your training and reasoning to get you through a stressful situation. Those who say they won't bet their life on Fenix but will bet their life on Surefire will be mighty dissapointed if they find themselves in a situation where their light fails and they have no experience working without it. One is none and two is one, but two could be none too. So YES my first choice for lights is FENIX, DON'T KNOCK IT!!!
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