12: The battery storage compartment in the stock makes a perfect mounting location for a flush fit Q/D cup. I use this one from Noveske:
http://noveskerifleworks.com/cgi-bin...status=&title=
13: The front sight hood can be easily cut/ground down to closer replicate most M4 front sights. This stops the hood from blocking your vision if you use a red dot with the irons up, and it allows you to place a flashlight further back on a PWS rail if you happen to have one installed. When removing the front sight to cut/grind on it, the retaining nut has a pin through it. You can shear the retaining nut right off if you don't remove the pin first (ask me how I know).
14: The Magpul safety selector made a huge difference for me. Personal preference, but I recommend you at least try one out.
15: Be careful when setting up double feeds for malfunction practice. There is a chance the round you throw into the chamber can work its way above the bolt and ride inside the top of the bolt carrier (sort of like an M4 bolt override...sort of). The rifle will function, but will have trouble seating and feeding from new magazines if you have the muzzle pointed up. The rifle has to be disassembled to remove this round. I shot about 3 mags worth with a round floating up there, and was ready to shit can some magazines because they were producing double feeds after I sent the bolt forward.
16: Hopefully an obvious one, but PMags need to be slightly modified to not damage the bolt catch/release. There is a ton of info out there about this, and it only takes 10 seconds per mag and a bastard file. USGI, SF60, Tango Down ARC, Lancer, and Troy mags all work without modification (and I'm sure others too, those are just what I have experience with).
The opinions posted above are my own and do not represent any current or former employer.
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