Buffer Tube Basics

[markm]

Some moron on TOS posted that having a mil spec RE was a snob issue.

This after the factual differences between the two were clearly laid out. Stupid people annoy the crap out of me.

[whiskey lake]

I was curious what the consensus here was on the best tube and spring to use? Are there manufacturers that produce higher quality tubes and springs than others? Are there some to stay away from?

[carbinero]

I bought mine from a vendor of Colt products, SAW: Specialized Armament.

[usmcvet]

Because for roughly $15-20 more than the CAA you could have a CMT mil-spec stock. I highly recommend mil-spec receiver extension over commercial tubes if this is a rifle that you might depend on to defend yourself. I also recommend staking the castle nut after torquing properly, it may never come loose on it's own and the staking ensures that it won't, it's the same exact reason carrier key screws are staked. Proper torquing and using high quality parts and it may never come loose, staking ensures that it won't.

The mil-spec tubes have the full/completed threads and won't spin off with the castle nut, gouging the tube as RRA sometimes do, Bushys usually don't do it but they're not mil-spec either. I have found a technique to avoid this with the Loc-Tited on RRA receiver extensions.

Hey have you been looking at my RRA tube! I've had that exact problem with mine!

[vicious_cb]

Something that kind of annoys me.

I staked my end plate into the castle nut at 3 places. When I first installed the tube, the thing was rock solid. Now after a few thousand rounds thru the lower the buffer tube rotates slightly back and fourth but the rotation is limited by the end plate notch. I want to tighten it down again but its staked to hell.

[Eric Kozowski]

I have a Noveske lower and want to install a UBR stock but need to remove the castle nut that has ben staked...how do I go about removing a castle nut that has been staked?

I've used a small, quality pin punch to knock the displaced metal back into the receiver end plate. Then, apply torque to the wrench.....

[HeavyDuty]

(snip)...

The other solution is a 5 position mil spec tube available from DSA's web page. It's shorter and I have been told the CTR will function as it should with this tube. I haven't replaced my tube with this one yet, but I will.

Can anyone confirm the 5 positions are different in major dimensions from the usual six position? I always assumed they were the same OAL and overall adjustment range just with longer spaces between detents.

I'm getting ready to order a Milspec tube for my ACS today so this thread being bumped up like this is timely!

[the_fallguy]

Can anyone confirm the 5 positions are different in major dimensions from the usual six position? I always assumed they were the same OAL and overall adjustment range just with longer spaces between detents.

I'm getting ready to order a Milspec tube for my ACS today so this thread being bumped up like this is timely!

I just compared a VLTOR 5 position RE to a Stag 6 position RE, and they were the same over all length. The 5 holes are just spaced a little farther apart as you suspected.

[HeavyDuty]

I would have been surprised if the length was different, but you never know until you ask. Thanks!

[Tritium]

Does anyone have a photo of the staked castlenut and plate so I can see the index points??

Wish I had read this 2 weeks ago. I just put a Magpul MOE on my commercical tubed Bushy and now I wish I had swapped the comm. tube for mil spec and gone with the mil spec MOE stock! DOH!