Ok, let me state first that I have no experience using motor oil for lube. I do know a lot about motor oil though, and from what I know this TM is a bit off, what do you all make of it?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...liner/Moil.jpg
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Ok, let me state first that I have no experience using motor oil for lube. I do know a lot about motor oil though, and from what I know this TM is a bit off, what do you all make of it?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...liner/Moil.jpg
I think I'll stick to mobile 1;)
Moble 1 Good
Anyone tried Quaker State Q (Full Synthetic)?
Thats an interesting point! I've been wanting to try out diesel oil for that reason. I have found that mobil 1 works better then CLP but to be honest I've never tried diesel oil. Ill try it out at the machine gun shoot in a few weeks at the impact zone here in houston.
All I know is that running Shell Rotella T in my old LT1 Trans Am sure cleaned it out! The guy had run GTX before and the Rotella had to be changed every could hundred miles for the first 1500 or so miles. Each time the filter was full of pudding consistancy sludge. It's a wonder I didn't stop up the oil pickup tube screen.
Works good for me.
I'm about 1/2 way through a quart bottle purchased in the late 1990s.
Apart from that, I will use TW25B or other lightweight grease when grease is needed.
I know "why" questions make people defensive and all, but why do we need detergent oil in a rifle?
Same reason it's in there for the engine, to help with deposits. Consider it to be the same as the "c" in CLP.
Used Dello 400,now use Mobil 1 .both run good and clean .
What weight oil is everyone using?
I've been running Castrol GTX synthetic 20w in 50 handguns for the past couple months...all are running the same or better than they did on CLP or RemOil.
Don't laugh... but I use Walmart pure synthetic. It's low cost and seems to be holding up pretty well on the guns I've been shooting. The one thing I noticed about synthetic versus CLP is I lube up a gun, put it in the vault and a month later its still wet. CLP dries out between cleanings fairly quick.
Here is the IZ we are limited in regards to gun oil, except for what we can order from home. The PX only stocks WD40, but also has STP oil treatment for some odd reason. Anyone have experience with using this STP?
I havent used the STP as a gun lube, but am familiar with the product. Is it the red or blue bottle? Both pour like thick honey and are designed as viscosity modifiers. The red has a very high detergent and additive package, the blue is just a viscosity modifier. I wouldn't use either in a weapon straight.
I'm sure you can find a quart of motor oil somewhere, if you put your mind to it.
I have used motor oil on crew served weapons primarily the M240, M2, and MK19 and have had good results with it. It worked no better or worse than LSA, and it was always available in some way shape or form. Grade and weight didn't matter, add more as needed. Most of it was 15w-40 which is what they use in most diesel trucks.
I don't think any gun comes close to reproducing the hellish chain of events that happen in a car engine, so even the cheapest motor oil should do the trick.
How is motor oil for corrosion protection?
This is just my opinion, and I'm about as far from being a tech geek there is. That said i dont think there is any magic corrosion protector, and does it really matter unless your putting some collectible weapon into long term storage? If my rifle is submerged in salt water its getting shaken out and lubed as soon as possible at the very least. If the humidity causes it to get a little surface rust wipe it down. The big thing is to keep the operating system lubed with something...Empirically i can't say if motor oil x is better than gun lube y.
I have been trying a product called Friction Defense from Brownells.
This oil looks for all the world like Mobil 1 oil with some molybdenum disulfide and teflon added to decrease friction and add a measure of corrosion resistance.
It appears to be working quite well as a lubricant and isn't smoky like some of the synthetic motor oils but cost per ounce is quite a bit more expensive.
No, no horror stories from ME, I just don't like putting anything containing chlorine near my weapon and it wont do much, if anything against rust (may encourage it with that chlorine....). When I did my test the Militec 1 nail was 90% as bad as the control nail and FAR worse than any other nail.
PS. Militec 1 is also a known carcinogenic. Chlorinated Paraffins and all that have been linked to cancer in humans.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...te_id/1#import
^This website will teach you more about oil and lubricants than any other I know of. Based on advice from this site I found the best oil for my LS1 powered F-body as well. I went from using 1qt every 3K miles with Mobil 1 5-30 EP (About 7.50 a qt.) to using MAYBE .5 qts every (4500 miles currently) using 0-30 German Castrol ($5.50 qt) and the small amount of metal dust (normal) on the magnet on my drain plug is cut in 1/2, although I have not sent the oil in to Blackstone for analysis or anthing official.
Militec-1 is a metal conditioner to be used as a lubricant, I've used it since about 1989. If you want a protectant use something like CLP or any 'gun oil'. When the USMC (at Quantico Firepower Div) was looking at Militec (late 80's) they mixed some Militec and CLP and had good results.
I use Militec 1 and CLP
What's the deal with using Motor Oil ?
Thanks for all the great info and Merry Christmas
It works great as a lube.
I guess I'm old school. I use gun oils in guns and motor oil in engines.
All my ARs are worth over $2K a piece, so I'm going to use the best synthetic gun oils I can. I don't salt water dive (haven't since 1983 and then not with a rifle). I'm a civilian and don't hump a rifle in the desert or jungle or whatever. I do sometimes shoot/hunt in the rain. If I don't use them for a week or so I wipe down the steel parts of my rifles with BreakFree CLP Weapon wipes. This is where I prefer a coating of Norrells Moly (on the exterior surfaces of the barrel, gas block/FSB etc.) The Norrells seals up the parkerizing preventing rust. (that's what I used on your 18" barrel and gas block Tim).
It really doesn't matter what you lube your rifle with as long as it's 'wet' (wet = dripping wet). Wet works. Some lubes will burn off more quickly than others, either way when shooting/training/competing I relube every 200 to 300 rounds.
Merry Christmas Tim and Merry Christmas to all!
Robb
Thanks for all the great information Robb.
I will be calling you later this week I'm going to start on my next AR build.
Merry Christmas
has anyone used/liked Tetra lube? I have a big bottle that I bought to use on my pistols but I'm not very sure I like it for that use. it seems to make the slide sluggish. I could be imagining that, though...
also, I asked on another thread about Eezox. anybody use that? I have a friend who will use nothing else and told me he got it from "a machinegunner" buddy of his.
What do you guys think of Mobil 1 thickened with Slick 50 grease?
Tim:confused:
+1 for Mobil 1...its easier to find and cheap enough to use alot of it...without breaking the bank.
I use Mobil 1 hear redline is pretty good also
I've been running Tetra on my Bushy from day one. Its worked fine so far. I have about 2.5k through it with no cleaning. All I do is lube it before range and carbine matches. I will say that I had stopped lubing it in Sept and will say its getting very sluggish. But to be honest I didn't shoot for about a month and half so I've only put a little over 500 rounds since I stopped lubing it. It has been very sluggish so I think its time to clean it. ;)
I think after cleaning I will buy some Weaponshield after I use up my free sample. I've been using it on my 1911 with no cleaning and almost no reoiling since the summer. I have about 1.5k though since the summer and have been very happy.
Topher
I use Golden Spectro 10W40 50% synthetic on everything, every weather condition. Seems fine for the last 13 years.
+1 for WallyWorld SuperTech synthetic 5w/30.
I have filled up an old LSA bottle about 3/4 full and sprayed in some Prestone Silicone lube and this seems about identical to LSA in appearance and feels like CLP.
Use the same stuff in lieu of 3 in one and gun oil, cheaper, and better in the low temps.
Thanks for the tip about diesel. I run 15w/40 synthetic, will give it a try.
Also make my own bore cleaner. Mostly #1 heating oil, some hoppes #9 for smell, some carburetor cleaner. Works great. Maybe someday I will find some banana oil which is what I heard gives Hoppes its distinctive odor. Nothing says GUNS like Hoppes.
I've gotta confess. I just don't get it. why anyone would use a product not designed for the purpose.
obviously motor oil works great in engines because that's what it was designed for. a motor is a relatively stable and clean environment with the engine being cooled and the oil filtered to remove suspended particles before it's returned to operation. and as someone mentioned before, it is contiained in a sump with a reasonably large quantity available to do the job at hand.
motor oil is designed specifically for ONE purpose. it's obvious that there are plenty of formulations based on different engines ( auto gas, diesel, motorcycle, wet and dry clutches, manual and auto transmissions, etc.) each is formulated for different load, shear forces, viscosity, detergent needs, etc., and there are real consequences in using the wrong type of oil in an engine.
and yet these applications are MUCH more alike than using thany of these products outside of an engine, ie. on the operating systems of a rifle which has no similarity to the operating environment of an engine other than metal is being rubbed against metal. compared to simply the operating differences between engines, the difference in using it in an AR is like comparing apples to hand grenades. and yet people are still choosing to use these oils instead of a product specifically formulated for the specific job.
now, many people have used this line before, but in my case it also happens to be true - I am not a smart man. but the people who dedicate entire careers into research and development of the various gun specific lubricants are. I'm guessing that what I "know" about lubricants would only fill the tiniest part of a thimble lost underneath a workbench in the corner of the huge warehouse of knowledge they have on the subject.
so why, I ask myself, would someone still be satisfied to ignore all the precious time and research conducted and reject the products in favor of others which can't work as well for the given situation. is it because of the money???
I guess I simply don't understand why someone would pour thousands of $$$ into a firearm and then cheap out by using a product not designed to the task simply to save a few pennies. the cost of an entire weeks application of even the most expensive gun-specific lubricant is still probably less expensive than the cost of the ammunition in even one magazine.
so, I'm not picking on anyone or trying to harsh anyone's mellow here, I honestly confused. what am I missing?
I started using mobil 1 after Ned recommended using synthetic motor oils in his 1911 armorers class last year. I chose Mobil 1 since that is what I had in the garage. I think any synthetic engine oil would work well. I use the 0-40.
It doesn't seem to gum up like some of the other CLP's I've used in the past
I don't use motor oil I use Echo bar and chain oil. I have never found anything better. I stays on an AR bolt and doesn't burn off even on full auto fire.