Printable View
I really wasn't happy with how the bolt carrier key was staked I felt it was on the borderline anyway I posted a couple pics for your examination.What do you think and please be honest.(I know you will be)
I used a center punch and a good sized ball peen hammer.By the way this is a CMT M16 Carrier and bolt
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...y57/006-13.jpg
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...y57/004-20.jpg
That is the same method as is used in the military (Field Staking Method) but we used a punch that was a little more friendly. ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by the.2nd1
the strikes were light at first then I gave a good whack because I wanted it to be the last thing that scews up on my carbine.Did you not stake them as much as me.Do you think I may have overdone it ?
Mine looked a little prettier, that's all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by the.2nd1
Yours must have looked great. I thought mine looked very funtionalQuote:
Originally Posted by Iraqgunz
I wouldn't take any offense.Quote:
Originally Posted by the.2nd1
I mean, the guy IS a professional armorer ;)
I meant simply the way that it turned out out. I used a punch with a finer tip, that was somewhat rounded. So I was able to make the stakes without as much "flaking". Could simply be the metal.
Now, if you were doing this routinely I would say invest in a MOACKS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by the.2nd1
I'm going to buy the new tool Brownell's offers.The price is much better than a MOACKS tool.That's on my list of tools to get.I have almost every tool made for an AR I really don't need to stake that many but I would like to have the staking tool from Brownell's anyway.
I've been using my hammer and punch for the occasional staking job.
Mine does look like it's staked pretty good doesn't it ?
Your staking job looks like it will do the job. I wouldn't worry about the aesthetics. I'd sand down the flaking metal flush though.
Those screws aren't going anywhere.
I took some pics of another Bolt carrier key .Do you think this one will hold up as you can see.I didn't hit it as hard with the hammer.Which way is the best I know these look better but are they going to hold up ?I wanted to try it both ways to see which is best way.This is a Bushmaster BCG
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...y57/006-14.jpg
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...y57/005-19.jpg
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...y57/004-21.jpg
here is the 1st BCG the CMT I cleaned it up with a file it took some of the finish off that's no big deal the staking looks 100% better I went over it with a bluing however the steel is not taking it like I say no biggie.I have included pics for your examination.Remember this is the first bolt I posted
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...y57/010-11.jpg
http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/s...y57/007-16.jpg
Looks much better. Don't worry about any bluing. It'll be fine.
There seems to be an OVER obsession with staking here, so much that people are over doing it. Im actually surprised people have not started welding the bolts in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by perna
when it comes to my firearms I'm a little OCD.I'd rather be safe than sorry.
Pay no attention to the man behind the curtain....I thought your thread was educational and appreciated the replies. (that added value anyway)Quote:
Originally Posted by the.2nd1
Rightfully so. Especially since they do come loose and only a few manufacturers actually stake their stuff really good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by perna
forgive my noob-ism, but what exactly is the point of doing this? just to make sure those screws dont back out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by cschwanz
you are correct it is to keep the screws from coming loose and backing out.If the key comes loose gas will escape and your firearm may fail to function.
I've read dozens of threads about "staking". I rarely read anything about using the correct, certified (usually US made) grade 8 cap screws and tightening them with a real torque wrench to milspec.
Staking is important but so is getting the correct stress on the screws and using screws that can take it.
l always retorque before I restake
i was shoot on friday , zeroing a new scope ......at app. 60 rds in to have some fun ...damn it ...it was short stroking pull out the bolt carrier /bolt .....look at the gas key bolt pop off :o:( it was y/m made bolt carrier with 2500 rds shot with this weapon so far weld it ,MMMM i know a tig welder who can do it .........joking !Quote:
Originally Posted by perna
In my link below, I failed to mention the importance of hardware specifications or grades. But the intent behind this tread was not to rebuild or possibly upgrade the carrier.Quote:
Originally Posted by DBR
My intent was to address the AR owner whose carrier was delivered un-staked, and to get that carrier at a minimum, properly torqued and staked.
I do mention the importance of proper torque, and provide a reference for such.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=37358
Pages 3-27 and 3-28 in the 23&P cover torque and staking of the gas key.
http://generalcartridge.net/Document...005-319-23.pdf
The Brownells tool is the MOACKS, the picture is wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by the.2nd1
Has Ned confirmed this? Or is the MOAKS branded in some fashion? I've been putting one off due to the price and will get one of these if they aren't ripping his design off.Quote:
Originally Posted by BBossman
He confirmed that he's making the Brownells tool a few weeks ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by thopkins22
Neds stuff is the best.
https://www.m4carbine.net/showthread...=moacks&page=3Quote:
Originally Posted by thopkins22