S&W 637 vs. 642

I've not seen much discussion on S&W J-Frames here and I had a question for the experts. I am looking into buying either a 637 or a 642, but can't make up my mind which would be better for my uses. I currently have a Ruger LCP which I use for pocket carry and would like to use the J-frame to rotate in during the winter time and maybe even as a full time carry gun. My question is on the topic of exposed vs. internal hammer. I really like the idea of being able to shoot single action if I want, but I figure if I ever needed to use the gun it would be used in double action, so I may as well practice in double action anyways. My concern with the exposed hammer is with pocket carry and the possibility of something snagging the hammer and the possibility of a ND. Is this even a feasible concern? I have a manager at work who would like to sell a 642 which she bought about a year and a half ago (lock version), and she said she would sell it for $100 less than the going rate for a new one, which I have found to be in the $350-$370 range. Do you all think it would be fair to start at an offer of $250? Or should try to find one without the lock?

ETA: She bought the pistol new and she says it is in like-new condition.

Thanks guys,

Mark

i was looking at the 638 and 642, went with the 642. Assuming you're using it as a defensive gun, i'd say the ability to use single action is of no help. Could potentially be a safety or legal liability, but i'll leave that judgement up to you.

other cool thing about the 642 is how high up the back strap you can get your hand, it makes for a very low effective bore axis. Totally snag free in the pocket too.

IMO, go for the 642. Snag free. No channel to get lint into the gun. I think you can get your firing hand higher up on the 642 as well.

Add an apex trigger upgrade (its only $25) and the DA becomes very shootable.

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Originally Posted by mhanna91

I have a manager at work who would like to sell a 642 which she bought about a year and a half ago (lock version), and she said she would sell it for $100 less than the going rate for a new one, which I have found to be in the $350-$370 range. Do you all think it would be fair to start at an offer of $250? Or should try to find one without the lock?

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I would not want a model with an internal lock; however they can be removed and a good deal is a good deal.

S&W Internal Lock Removal

+1 on the 642 for all the reasons mentioned above.

If your serious about a true pocket J-Frame try to find a S&W Model-337 and have the hammer bobbed and rounded to were you can still shoot single action but it greatly reduces the snag factor. This is one light weight revolver and the wife loves to borrow it for bike riding and running. I most times forget thats its in my pocket when using it as a BUG.

Here is a pre-lock version at a good price,
http://www.budsbuysguns.com/catalog/index.php/cPath/72

I have the 442, which is the blue brother of the 642.

I bought it specifically for pocket carry and it does that perfectly.

These guns are so light that I doubt you are going to shoot pop cans all afternoon, playing with single action mode.

If the lady is giving you a good deal, take it. You could always sell it later if you find something more to your liking.

As a side note, I have pocket carried a Ruger SP101, and have found that the hammer doesn't interfere at all. But as always, ymmv.

I prefer the 442/642 series - it is perfect IMHO.

If you do go hammered it absolutely must be bobbed for loose pocket carry. Yes, you will have an ND, otherwise. You really should have a pocket holster anyway, for safety.

If the 642 is not a double action only version you can still fire the gun in single action mode. All non-DAO guns have the ability to stack the trigger before the SA break, all it takes is practice. SA really is only for range use so there is no reason not to learn how to stack it. They are damn accurate guns. I'd suggest you get a good trigger job on it anyway to improve trigger control. A good job there will also improve your ability to feel the single action mode and control the break as it stacks in DA. Sometimes you get lucky with a factory gun.

You will want to disable the trigger lock as well for trigger smoothness and PEACE OF MIND, justified or not, but of course, that will get you in trouble in court, but we don't really care about that after the fact.

Why not make a good offer for you - you can always go up!

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Originally Posted by OMD

You will want to disable the trigger lock as well for trigger smoothness and PEACE OF MIND, justified or not, but of course, that will get you in trouble in court, but we don't really care about that after the fact.

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a little FYI for the original poster- these guns ARE available with no lock. smith and wesson has been making them with AND without the lock fora couple years now. it's not just a limited run or whatever your dealer with only lock versions says.

Thanks for all the replies and info guys. I went ahead and hammered out a deal with her on the 642. We ended up at $280 out the door. I don't think that is too bad of a deal since the gun only has about 200 rounds through it. I will be ordering the Apex kit which should bring the trigger down to 9 lbs, as well as a set of rosewood grips from http://altamontco.com/products/pisto...rame/index.php

I had no idea that it was possible to disable the locking mechanism. That is good info, but I may hold off on doing that due to possible legal concerns. With the little reading I have done, lock failures seem prone to only the 329 and other large-bore guns and while firing hot ammunition. I may be wrong though. Either way, for $280 I don't feel like I am getting hurt. I appreciate all the info everyone!

Awesome deal! You'll be really happy with that gun. If you want to train for fun with it you can load up full wadcutters really cheap with very little powder and no recoil. You can load them backwards as well - expanding base side out - for insane expansion at low velocities on those poor little varmints :D